Spring Rate Chart
Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Mpls
Hey all
For what it's worth changing springs only is NOT the thing to do IMHO. I did tons of research and despite 20 people telling me that the Eibach springs are "progressive" and would be perfect for me. Not the case. The stock springs are matched to the struts. I think we all know that. Mits spent plenty of time to make the rates and spring length correct etc. I now have the Eibachs installed with stock struts and it is the worst. 
It is obvious I lost travel with the shorter springs. Imagine the car being 25% stiffer than it was stock but without correct dampening. On anything but the smoothest roads it won't keep the rubber in contact with the road. I am in the process of putting my stock springs back on and winter tires and will deal with coilovers in the spring. I just thought I would warn someone else. This info was confirmed through John at Roadrace Engineering as well. So unless someone has a better idea I wouldn't recommend it-
It is obvious I lost travel with the shorter springs. Imagine the car being 25% stiffer than it was stock but without correct dampening. On anything but the smoothest roads it won't keep the rubber in contact with the road. I am in the process of putting my stock springs back on and winter tires and will deal with coilovers in the spring. I just thought I would warn someone else. This info was confirmed through John at Roadrace Engineering as well. So unless someone has a better idea I wouldn't recommend it-
Last edited by Michael Adair; Dec 2, 2004 at 12:33 PM.
Originally Posted by Michael Adair
For what it's worth changing springs only is NOT the thing to do IMHO. I did tons of research and despite 20 people telling me that the Eibach springs are "progressive" and would be perfect for me. Not the case. The stock springs are matched to the struts. I think we all know that. Mits spent plenty of time to make the rates and spring length correct etc. I now have the Eibachs installed with stock struts and it is the worst. It is obvious I lost travel with the shorter springs. Imagine the car being 25% stiffer than it was stock but without correct dampening. On anything but the smoothest roads it won't keep the rubber in contact with the road. I am in the process of putting my stock springs back on and winter tires and will deal with coilovers in the spring. I just thought I would warn someone else. This info was confirmed through John at Roadrace Engineering as well. So unless someone has a better idea I wouldn't recommend it-
It is obvious I lost travel with the shorter springs. Imagine the car being 25% stiffer than it was stock but without correct dampening. On anything but the smoothest roads it won't keep the rubber in contact with the road. I am in the process of putting my stock springs back on and winter tires and will deal with coilovers in the spring. I just thought I would warn someone else. This info was confirmed through John at Roadrace Engineering as well. So unless someone has a better idea I wouldn't recommend it-RRE themselves recommend the Eibach Prokits. I have them and I'm pleased by the performance gains.
Originally Posted by Michael Adair
For what it's worth changing springs only is NOT the thing to do IMHO. I did tons of research and despite 20 people telling me that the Eibach springs are "progressive" and would be perfect for me. Not the case. The stock springs are matched to the struts. I think we all know that. Mits spent plenty of time to make the rates and spring length correct etc. I now have the Eibachs installed with stock struts and it is the worst. It is obvious I lost travel with the shorter springs. Imagine the car being 25% stiffer than it was stock but without correct dampening. On anything but the smoothest roads it won't keep the rubber in contact with the road. I am in the process of putting my stock springs back on and winter tires and will deal with coilovers in the spring. I just thought I would warn someone else. This info was confirmed through John at Roadrace Engineering as well. So unless someone has a better idea I wouldn't recommend it-
It is obvious I lost travel with the shorter springs. Imagine the car being 25% stiffer than it was stock but without correct dampening. On anything but the smoothest roads it won't keep the rubber in contact with the road. I am in the process of putting my stock springs back on and winter tires and will deal with coilovers in the spring. I just thought I would warn someone else. This info was confirmed through John at Roadrace Engineering as well. So unless someone has a better idea I wouldn't recommend it-
Originally Posted by BJai02
I tried to replicate the sitting position of the car and how I hold my camera. It was just the shadow that I could not avoid at the time I took the "H&R" picture. 
Here is a pic of my stock car and after I installing the spring. I took the "after" picture almost a month ago... just about 1 week after the installation.
Here is a pic of my stock car and after I installing the spring. I took the "after" picture almost a month ago... just about 1 week after the installation.
Originally Posted by Michael Adair
I have not had the car re-aligned or cambered etc... I would be shocked if it made enough differance. What is the deal with the bump stops?
BTW, per I did not cut the bump stops per the instructions. I don't have any problems with bottoming out and I drive on some pretty rough roads in the city.
Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Mpls
Well, I sure and the hell are not bottoming out. I have set up cars for trackdays and understand camber caster and trail. What I am describing is losing contact with the road which makes you slow. There is a lack of suspension travel. Do you follow?
Originally Posted by marksae
BTW, per I did not cut the bump stops per the instructions. I don't have any problems with bottoming out and I drive on some pretty rough roads in the city.
On the other hand, modifying the bumpstop risks yourself blowing the shocks. But I haven't heard anyone had blown one in EVOs yet.
The numbers that JIC lists for the FLTA2 on their web site is different than the numbers that you have. http://www.jic-magic.com/Library/sus...a2susp_app.htm They show 8 front and 7 rear. That comes out to 447 lb-in front and 391 in the rear. Maybe the numbers that you have are for the springs that RRE uses, but they are not the ones listed on the web site.
Thats because JIC includes different spring rates on their coilover from batch
to batch... That's what I was told talking to different JIC vendors and JIC USA
themselves.
Always ask for the spring rates included on the coilover when buying JICs.
to batch... That's what I was told talking to different JIC vendors and JIC USA
themselves.
Always ask for the spring rates included on the coilover when buying JICs.
Originally Posted by nj1266
The numbers that JIC lists for the FLTA2 on their web site is different than the numbers that you have. http://www.jic-magic.com/Library/sus...a2susp_app.htm They show 8 front and 7 rear. That comes out to 447 lb-in front and 391 in the rear. Maybe the numbers that you have are for the springs that RRE uses, but they are not the ones listed on the web site.
Originally Posted by JT-KGY
Thats because JIC includes different spring rates on their coilover from batch
to batch... That's what I was told talking to different JIC vendors and JIC USA
themselves.
Always ask for the spring rates included on the coilover when buying JICs.
to batch... That's what I was told talking to different JIC vendors and JIC USA
themselves.
Always ask for the spring rates included on the coilover when buying JICs.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
By the way, the rates for the rs-r springs are wrong according to rs-r's website www.rs-r.com/products/suspension
The rates for both the Ti springs and the Down springs for the EVO are the same, the onyl difference is the weight of the springs, and the price. Here's the correct figures
Front(in) Rear(in) Front(lb) Rear(lb)
Evo VIII 1.4 0.8 246 325
The rates for both the Ti springs and the Down springs for the EVO are the same, the onyl difference is the weight of the springs, and the price. Here's the correct figures
Front(in) Rear(in) Front(lb) Rear(lb)
Evo VIII 1.4 0.8 246 325