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That damn front lower control arm bolt!

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Old Apr 13, 2016, 01:56 PM
  #46  
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Is that the only way to get it (cut the sub frame)? I can't imagine Mitsu sits there hacking up customers sub frames when/if this happens to them...
Old Apr 13, 2016, 05:26 PM
  #47  
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If the nut breaks free from the inside, yes, cutting the sub frame to get access is the only way. So I'm still struggling with my bolt on the drivers side. My plan is to soak the bolt/area with PB blaster daily and heat the bolt up and use the two hammer method to shock the bolt hoping to free the bolt from the bushing sleeve. I'll keep doing that til Friday or Saturday and attempt removing again.
Old Apr 13, 2016, 09:05 PM
  #48  
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Heating the bolt up does no good, it will expand in the nut and sleeve and be harder to turn. You need to hear up the nut...
Old Apr 14, 2016, 06:42 AM
  #49  
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In my case heating the nut did nothing, I still couldnt turn the bolt. It had completely seized to the bushing. If you had a way to get some Kroil or "pimp juice" in there you might be better off.


p.s. "Pimp Juice"
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home...netrating-oil/
Old Apr 14, 2016, 07:28 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Heating the bolt up does no good, it will expand in the nut and sleeve and be harder to turn. You need to hear up the nut...
Yes this right. Instead freeze the bolt. There are cans that freeze spray. Check google.
Old Apr 16, 2016, 08:29 AM
  #51  
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Welp, haven't given up on many upgrades on my car, but this is the 1st one. The driver's side bolt would not come out, no matter what. I finally turned to an impact, which would still only move the bolt 1/8 of a turn, either way. The head of the bolt is now pretty rounded out, and instead of risking breaking the bolt or the nut in the subframe, I'm just gonna let it be. Maybe one day I'll take it to a Evo shop and have them mess with it. You win lower control arm bolt, I surrender... Good luck for others who have to remove their lower control arm for any reason.
Old Apr 19, 2016, 07:36 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by SW20Mike
Welp, haven't given up on many upgrades on my car, but this is the 1st one. The driver's side bolt would not come out, no matter what. I finally turned to an impact, which would still only move the bolt 1/8 of a turn, either way. The head of the bolt is now pretty rounded out, and instead of risking breaking the bolt or the nut in the subframe, I'm just gonna let it be. Maybe one day I'll take it to a Evo shop and have them mess with it. You win lower control arm bolt, I surrender... Good luck for others who have to remove their lower control arm for any reason.
Old Jan 20, 2018, 10:45 AM
  #53  
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These subframes are stupid

Taking off driverside lower control arm the ball joint bolt came out fine the bolt that bolts upward came out fine but that one that goes through the bushing sideways ( l--- ) the nut that's welded in the subframe broke loose believe it or not the subframe actually has a hole rusted right there but I can't seem to get a wrench or anything on it to stop it from spinning any suggestions on how to get that bastard? I'm having a difficult time here lol 2002 lancer
Old Jan 21, 2018, 08:34 AM
  #54  
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You've gotta cut that out so you can get the wrench or socket in there. There's no other way unless you can get a welder in the hole that rusted and weld the nut down.
Old May 12, 2018, 09:54 PM
  #55  
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I used two cans of map gas, 4 industrial cans of pb , 2 foot 1/2 breaker bar and a 1400 ft.tq impact wrench and nothing
Old May 13, 2018, 09:42 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by yellowevo82
I used two cans of map gas, 4 industrial cans of pb , 2 foot 1/2 breaker bar and a 1400 ft.tq impact wrench and nothing
Likely because that nut is seized or already broken free and is free spinning. You are gonna have to cut a hole to get to it to hold in place or weld in place. It sucks...
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