^ I agree with the majority of those points except in regards to camber in the rear as well as tire pressures in the rear.

In the past I would actually run 1-2psi more in the rear to help rotation. Now I've since dialed back the pressure in the rear ~.5-1psi to help settle things down.

I think with tire pressures as well as camber there is usable range but to say that simply bumping up or lowering either will result in more rotation I think is false.

If you're going to generalize like that I've found it to be the exact opposite. Adding pressure to the rear as well as taking away camber to the rear will assist in rotation.

 

I actually don't like that chart at all. It way to generalized for an odd car such as the evo. Nearly everyone of those could go the other way if you're on the wrong side of the optimization curve.

 

I've started running 1.5-2psi higher hot pressures in the rear tires vs the front. Previously I was running equal pressures on all 4 corners, and there's been a noticeable increase in corner exit oversteer. More than a 2psi difference though was making the rear end too loose.

 

I don't think it's a one size fits all, but it's a good starting point for AWD cars.

Things in that list match up with the stuff I've been reading.

I think each car and parts and drivers require uniqie set-ups, no question.

 

That is sorta what I was trying to explain but I may have not been concise with my wording. I just focused on tire pressures as well as camber as those two are things which Ive personally tested and my findings were different that what was posted.

Ultimately it goes back to the effective "range" or as you better but it the optimization curve.

 

Yep yep. There is an optimal balance to everything and the more I learn about and model my suspension the more I understand that generalizations are vague can just as easily lead you in the wrong direction.