Trailing arm removal
Trailing arm removal
I need to remove my rear axle to replace the axle seal in the differential and I can't seem to get the trailing arm to pop off so I can swing the hub forward and pull the axle out. Is there a trick to removing it? Or is there a tool I can rent from an auto parts store to pull it off?
I have done the differential removal and install a bunch of times and I don't remove the trailing arm. I just take out the bolt of the lower arm from the knuckle. This allows the whole essembly to swing out enough. It's tight but you can prop in some thing on the other tire to keep the whole thing slight off center to the advantage of the side you are working on. A crow bar pops the axle out, and if it's being difficult spin the axle so the clip re orients in a different way. Eventually it will give way.
If you send me a pick I can mark it up for you if you are still stuck.
Good luck
If you send me a pick I can mark it up for you if you are still stuck.
Good luck
I can make one once I'm done. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them. Yes the old seal just pops out with the help of a pry bar and then just tap the new one back in place.
Just to give people that are wondering a quick run down, here's how I did it. I'll add pictures eventually and make a new thread for this.
Tools required:
17mm socket
17mm wrench
22mm socket
24mm socket
32mm socket
1/2" breaker bar
3/8" ratchet
1/2" impact (optional but I have one and love it)
Ball joint remover
Rubber mallet
Flat head screwdriver
Pry bars
Drain pan
Pliers
Fluid pump
Materials required:
New axle seal
1qt Mitsubishi LSD gear oil
- I jacked the car up from the rear diff and set it on jack stands. Remove rear wheels.
- Take your pliers and remove the cotter pin on the rear axle nut. Then take your 32mm socket and remove the axle nut.
- Use the 24mm socket to remove the drain plug from the rear diff and allow the gear fluid to drain.
- While that's draining, remove the 17mm bolt that holds the lower control arm to the hub. I also removed the 17mm bolt that connects to the lower portion of the strut.
- Remove the 22mm nut from the trailing arm and assist link.
- Use your ball joint separator to remove the trailing arm and assist link from the hub.
- Using the rubber mallet and screw driver, lightly tap the end of the axle out of the hub. Once that's loosened, swing the hub assembly forward and remove the front half of the axle completely from the hub.
- Now using your pry bar place it between the axle and the thicker part of the rear diff and pry forward. That should pop the axle out of place and you should be able to remove it completely and put it off to the side.
- Now you should be able to see the axle seal. Take a mental note of how far in it sits. Take your pry bar and place it through the middle of the seal and pull forward. The seal should now pop out of place.
- Take your new seal and press it in by hand as best as you can. Then take the mallet and the 32mm socket and lightly tap it back into place. Using your mental note, just tap it enough until it's roughly in as deep as it was before.
- Reverse the steps, fill the rear diff with 0.58qts of oil and your done.
Torque specs are as follows:
Axle nut - 166 ft/lbs
Trailing arm and assist link - 60 ft/lbs
Lower control arm bolts - 65 ft/lbs
Tools required:
17mm socket
17mm wrench
22mm socket
24mm socket
32mm socket
1/2" breaker bar
3/8" ratchet
1/2" impact (optional but I have one and love it)
Ball joint remover
Rubber mallet
Flat head screwdriver
Pry bars
Drain pan
Pliers
Fluid pump
Materials required:
New axle seal
1qt Mitsubishi LSD gear oil
- I jacked the car up from the rear diff and set it on jack stands. Remove rear wheels.
- Take your pliers and remove the cotter pin on the rear axle nut. Then take your 32mm socket and remove the axle nut.
- Use the 24mm socket to remove the drain plug from the rear diff and allow the gear fluid to drain.
- While that's draining, remove the 17mm bolt that holds the lower control arm to the hub. I also removed the 17mm bolt that connects to the lower portion of the strut.
- Remove the 22mm nut from the trailing arm and assist link.
- Use your ball joint separator to remove the trailing arm and assist link from the hub.
- Using the rubber mallet and screw driver, lightly tap the end of the axle out of the hub. Once that's loosened, swing the hub assembly forward and remove the front half of the axle completely from the hub.
- Now using your pry bar place it between the axle and the thicker part of the rear diff and pry forward. That should pop the axle out of place and you should be able to remove it completely and put it off to the side.
- Now you should be able to see the axle seal. Take a mental note of how far in it sits. Take your pry bar and place it through the middle of the seal and pull forward. The seal should now pop out of place.
- Take your new seal and press it in by hand as best as you can. Then take the mallet and the 32mm socket and lightly tap it back into place. Using your mental note, just tap it enough until it's roughly in as deep as it was before.
- Reverse the steps, fill the rear diff with 0.58qts of oil and your done.
Torque specs are as follows:
Axle nut - 166 ft/lbs
Trailing arm and assist link - 60 ft/lbs
Lower control arm bolts - 65 ft/lbs
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I cleaned the whole area off with brake cleaner but here's how it looks with the seal removed:
Last edited by 19DB794; Mar 24, 2014 at 04:01 PM.
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