warped rotors
warped rotors
Hey guys,
I have changed out two set of rotors in am matter of 3 months. First set from Maperformance slotted with stop tech pads. Those got warped and decided to get just the front pair from stop tech , those also got warped on me in just under a month
.
So i wanna know whats going on here?? Should i just get regular rotors since i don't track the car, occasionally on the drag strip. I also don't sit too much on the brakes at the light nor do i wash the car when the rotors are hot.
I would appreciate your input and feedback on this guys thanks for any suggestions.
I have changed out two set of rotors in am matter of 3 months. First set from Maperformance slotted with stop tech pads. Those got warped and decided to get just the front pair from stop tech , those also got warped on me in just under a month
.So i wanna know whats going on here?? Should i just get regular rotors since i don't track the car, occasionally on the drag strip. I also don't sit too much on the brakes at the light nor do i wash the car when the rotors are hot.
I would appreciate your input and feedback on this guys thanks for any suggestions.
Thats very odd that you could have had 2 episodes of warped rotors w/out tracking
How did you determine they were warped. Did someone dial indicate on a rotating fixture. Just curious how far out they were dimensionly
Warped rotors from many opinions here are a rare bird for sure
Is it possible they are not squarely seated on the hubs when you torqued the lugs. Are you properly torquing the lugs?
How did you determine they were warped. Did someone dial indicate on a rotating fixture. Just curious how far out they were dimensionly
Warped rotors from many opinions here are a rare bird for sure
Is it possible they are not squarely seated on the hubs when you torqued the lugs. Are you properly torquing the lugs?
You don't have warped rotors, in fact your first set weren't warped either. Bed your brakes in properly and all will be good.
Search on the forum for warped brakes and all the info is posted about what you're really feeling.
Search on the forum for warped brakes and all the info is posted about what you're really feeling.
Rotors aren't warped. You have uneven pad deposits on the rotor face which cause a vibration. You either didn't bed the pads properly, or you're overheating/overworking the pads..
So i had a feeling it had something to do with the pads, i used Hawk hps pads before and i never had any issues, but these pads are stop tech and i didnt had a good feeling about the switch. So you guys are saying i should just drive the car hard and bed in the pads properly ??? Or should i just get a fresh set of hawk pads again and just bed in properly ?
if i break really hard it doesn't vibrate, but if i am just tapping on the break easy like on the highway or breaking soft i get that stupid vibration .
I know stop tech rotors are pretty good and is a reputable brand so i wasn't expecting any problems, but not of sure of their pads!!
I know stop tech rotors are pretty good and is a reputable brand so i wasn't expecting any problems, but not of sure of their pads!!
Last edited by boost556; Jun 8, 2015 at 06:58 AM.
You should take your rotors off and take them to a shop that can turn the rotors. That will remove the uneven surface left from not bedding your brakes properly. When you re-install the rotors make sure you torque lugs to proper spec. You need a place that doesnt have any traffic. To bed the brakes properly you need to go up to around 40-60mph and hit the brakes hard. After this let them cool down but you should not be resting your foot on the brake as that will make uneven deposits again. You need to do this a few times to properly bed the brakes in.
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You should take your rotors off and take them to a shop that can turn the rotors. That will remove the uneven surface left from not bedding your brakes properly. When you re-install the rotors make sure you torque lugs to proper spec. You need a place that doesnt have any traffic. To bed the brakes properly you need to go up to around 40-60mph and hit the brakes hard. After this let them cool down but you should not be resting your foot on the brake as that will make uneven deposits again. You need to do this a few times to properly bed the brakes in.
The shop that did the job are guys who have been around these cars a while now but u never know huh .
Wheel lugs. So when you bolt your wheel back on it should be 75ft lbs. Max torque is 80 I believe. This will sandwich the rotor to the hub. So before you torque them on you need to make sure the hub surface is pretty flat and you've removed any rust from the hub so you have a good mating surface. I usually put some brake grease on the hub to lightly coat the metal so it is easier to pull off rotors later on. Some people just put them on. No worrier though.
As long as you have good mating surfaces you should be good with that. You just have to remind yourself when you are bedding the brake pads you don't rest your foot on the brakes while they are hot. Let them cool for a bit then you should be fine.
As long as you have good mating surfaces you should be good with that. You just have to remind yourself when you are bedding the brake pads you don't rest your foot on the brakes while they are hot. Let them cool for a bit then you should be fine.
don't turn the rotors!!!
no need to waste metal. you can just have them cleaned up (the sanding process they do after turning is fine). just have a shop remove the deposits for you.
bed the pads in properly and you are good to go. the manufacturers website should have the procedure to follow.
good luck!
no need to waste metal. you can just have them cleaned up (the sanding process they do after turning is fine). just have a shop remove the deposits for you.
bed the pads in properly and you are good to go. the manufacturers website should have the procedure to follow.
good luck!
don't turn the rotors!!!
no need to waste metal. you can just have them cleaned up (the sanding process they do after turning is fine). just have a shop remove the deposits for you.
bed the pads in properly and you are good to go. the manufacturers website should have the procedure to follow.
good luck!
no need to waste metal. you can just have them cleaned up (the sanding process they do after turning is fine). just have a shop remove the deposits for you.
bed the pads in properly and you are good to go. the manufacturers website should have the procedure to follow.
good luck!
This. Tell the shop to just put them on the brake lathe and hit them with a wire wheel, or sanding disk on a die grinder. It'll get rid of the deposits, and leave a nice non-directional pattern to bed the new pads..
ok guys thanks for the tips very much appreciated will do!!
now i have a set of brand new rotors front slotted to get off my hands from Maperformance if you guys are interested lmk i will sell for a decent price .
now i have a set of brand new rotors front slotted to get off my hands from Maperformance if you guys are interested lmk i will sell for a decent price .
Last edited by boost556; Jun 10, 2015 at 07:09 AM.
Back in the DSM days people were always complaining of loose lug nuts. The rotors on DSM's loved to rust and when you mounted wheels on that rust, the rust would crumble, fall out and hence loose lug nuts. To avoid this I got into the habit of scrubbing the rotor surface to metal any time I rotated tires.
With my Evo I still do this even though there isn't much rust. Anyway, when you mount new rotors you want to be careful that the surfaces between the hub and rotor are clean.
With my Evo I still do this even though there isn't much rust. Anyway, when you mount new rotors you want to be careful that the surfaces between the hub and rotor are clean.
Have to agree. Majority of the time its built up pad material on the rotor you're skipping over. Lightly hand sand both rotor surfaces then rebed the pads. Should solve it.
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