EVO_JOE

iTrader: (6)

The parking brake is a major reason for warping. especially when used after brakes are hot. Even a large amount of pressure on the front brakes will cause warping when there hot. When stoped keep your foot of the brake or slightly depress. The more pressure when in a neutral position the more problem. And when you park your car don't use the e-brake. Put it in first gear. And if your brakes are hot, drive slowly for a minute or two to let lem cool off.

JasonS

iTrader: (1)

If it's a performance question, put it in the Motorsports forum, this "tires/wheels/suspension/brakes" forum is mostly about the "bling".

erioshi

Interestingly enough, the parking brake doesn't actually use the disk pads. It has it's own set of brake shoes it uses on the drum in the center of the rear disks.

One possibility is that while my car was sitting, the space between my pads and rotors oxidized differently than than the exposed disk area. This seems more likely.

siantjab

iTrader: (2)

Stock pads and rotors with no warping here. We'll see in a few thousand more miles, but I'm optimistic. :-)

GDB

Stock pad, after a few track days, warped.

Changed to Project Mju 0-500C pads, ONE track day, warping disappears

Evo brakes aren't too good though, IMHO. As in, compared to its handling and power potential, the brakes are not in the same vein.

WildRice

10k and my brakes are perfect. I do hate all of the dust and the rotors show wear but perhaps that's to be expected with the cheap but agressive stock pads. I and going to up grade rotors and pads at the same time. I have noticed that when I wash my car the rotors rust immediately (before I can dry the car). If I do not move the car the pads will stick to the rotors and "pop" loose when I start to drive. The rust takes a couple of stops to clear up. I have never had this happen with any other car.

Grod101

iTrader: (7)

they have to replace them... it under the magnuson-moss warranty act... tell them to stick it up there pie holes....

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

I just got back from 2 track days this weekend at Putnam Park and had some mixed results. I have the stock rotors and aftermarket pads. They are Project MU pads....i forget the model number..but its their street/sport pad. Anyways I made it through all of the first day and most of the 2nd. The project Mu pads wear wearing very well...and peforming well. I started feeling vibration in the steering wheel..then is just kept getting worse. My instructor (this was a racing school) started to feel it too just sitting int he passenger seat. We drove off the track then drove slow for awhile to let the brakes cool off. He thought they were warped...i did too. Then after the brakes were cool and had sat around for approx. an hour the warped feeling was entirely gone. I told my instructor and he said that it was likely as the rotors cooled that they returned to the normal state, but would warp once again as soon as they got real hot. He suggested using those rotors for the street, but said to get new front ones for the track because they were probably not good enough anymore...anyone have any thoughts what the hell happened?

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

On a side note the project MU pads are very good about not dusting much at all....which my instuctor indicated might be part of the problem...that dusting was actually a way the pad disapates heat.

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

need answers...BUMP!

erioshi

Hi Killa, After looking at the numbers on the poll, I'm beginning to believe that driving style may make more of a difference than the pad type. Pad choice doesn't seem to dictate rotor failure.

I know someone who's driving on a set of Tarox(?) rotors without problems and has used them on several track days. I think they might be available through either StopTech or RacerShop. I'm not sure what other high performance rotors people have been using.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

I've finally got some shuddering when I brake ... was perfect until about 15k miles. Haven't tried the repeated hard stops to get rid of it, though. I did look at my pads, and they really aren't that worn yet, so I will probably live with the current setup until spring time, at which point I'll probably put Hawk HP Plus pads on it.

l8r)

mr_b401

iTrader: (3)

I chose "warped-stock pads". But I just got this resolved today at the dealership.
They tried cutting them but no such luck after doing so. So the front rotors were replaced under warr. Good to go. Take advantage of that warranty!!! Btw, 6500 mi.

oh and Dragon41673, listen to Grod101. He is absolutely right. If the current dealership you go for service wont replace em & you wanna save the hassle, just go to another mitsu dealer...there's bound to be a decent one around.

KazzEvo8

iTrader: (2)

The only times I've experienced any vibration under braking has gone away. I'm assuming it's pad transfer.

Stock pads, rotors and 24,000 miles - with trips to autocross events and 2 drag events.

boks

Just noticed mine the other day. At 60-70+ mph if I lightly step on the brake the car shudders pretty badly, but if I continue to press harder on the brake pedal it goes away and stops smoothly. It only shudders at 60-70+ with a light press to the pedal. ~8000 miles on the car and its all stock. Anyone have any ideas about my specific problem? I suppose i'm off to the dealer this week to see what they'll say.