View Poll Results: Brake Poll - warping and pad type?
Not Warped - Aftermarket Pads
11
7.80%
Not Warped - Stock Pads
65
46.10%
Warped - Aftermarket Pads
11
7.80%
Warped - Stock Pads
54
38.30%
Voters: 141. You may not vote on this poll
Brake Poll - warping and pad type
Sep 28, 2004, 09:37 PM
#31
Originally Posted by KillaSweep
I just got back from 2 track days this weekend at Putnam Park and had some mixed results. I have the stock rotors and aftermarket pads. They are Project MU pads....i forget the model number..but its their street/sport pad. Anyways I made it through all of the first day and most of the 2nd. The project Mu pads wear wearing very well...and peforming well. I started feeling vibration in the steering wheel..then is just kept getting worse. My instructor (this was a racing school) started to feel it too just sitting int he passenger seat. We drove off the track then drove slow for awhile to let the brakes cool off. He thought they were warped...i did too. Then after the brakes were cool and had sat around for approx. an hour the warped feeling was entirely gone. I told my instructor and he said that it was likely as the rotors cooled that they returned to the normal state, but would warp once again as soon as they got real hot. He suggested using those rotors for the street, but said to get new front ones for the track because they were probably not good enough anymore...anyone have any thoughts what the hell happened?
Sep 29, 2004, 11:36 AM
#32
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Somewhat OT, but related:
Has anyone been using the StopTech front brakes (rotor/caliper)? They are just under 8 lbs. lighter than the stockers and I'm curious if anyone has put any decent mileage (on and off track) on a set.
l8r)
Has anyone been using the StopTech front brakes (rotor/caliper)? They are just under 8 lbs. lighter than the stockers and I'm curious if anyone has put any decent mileage (on and off track) on a set.
l8r)
Oct 1, 2004, 11:26 PM
#33
Originally Posted by boks
Just noticed mine the other day. 
At 60-70+ mph if I lightly step on the brake the car shudders pretty badly, but if I continue to press harder on the brake pedal it goes away and stops smoothly. It only shudders at 60-70+ with a light press to the pedal. ~8000 miles on the car and its all stock. Anyone have any ideas about my specific problem? I suppose i'm off to the dealer this week to see what they'll say. 
At 60-70+ mph if I lightly step on the brake the car shudders pretty badly, but if I continue to press harder on the brake pedal it goes away and stops smoothly. It only shudders at 60-70+ with a light press to the pedal. ~8000 miles on the car and its all stock. Anyone have any ideas about my specific problem? I suppose i'm off to the dealer this week to see what they'll say. anyone have an idea?
Oct 8, 2004, 03:23 PM
#35
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It's been forever since I started this poll, but I have noticed that with harder pad compounds I've had fewer brake issues.
This last summer I was running Carbotech XP-8 pads front and rear and the stoping power was impressive. I culd put them on the track for 45+ minutes at a time (basically one tank of gas) and they never faded. They were a bit noisy until they warmed up, but I've gotten used to that in a track pad. I also managed the entire summer without any brake vibration.
Just wondering about other peoples experiences with different prake pads.
This last summer I was running Carbotech XP-8 pads front and rear and the stoping power was impressive. I culd put them on the track for 45+ minutes at a time (basically one tank of gas) and they never faded. They were a bit noisy until they warmed up, but I've gotten used to that in a track pad. I also managed the entire summer without any brake vibration.
Just wondering about other peoples experiences with different prake pads.
Oct 8, 2004, 04:31 PM
#36
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Did you run the XP-8s on the street, or did you just swap out pads at the track? I'm definitely going to have to get track pads next year--in the past I would get brake fade due to fluid boiling which probably kept the pads from getting too hot, but after I switched to high-temp brake fluid I was starting to get pretty serious pad transfer issues (shuddering under braking) up at BIR this fall with the stock pads. I'm always really careful to stay off the brakes on the cooldown lap and drive around for a bit, not using the e-brake, etc. I've managed to get enough of it off by hard braking to make it fine for street driving, but I'll probably have to get the rotors blanched or whatever it's called before I go to the track again in the spring... it wasn't much fun to have tons of brake shudder at 135 mph coming into a high speed turn.
Oct 8, 2004, 05:43 PM
#37
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My car has been through 7 DE Events at Mid Ohio and VIR with two drivers, back to back driving it, which obviously is very hard on brakes when the two drivers are in the top two run groups, excluding the instructor group, which we were in for two events. This was during the last year when the car was also street driven. Total miles with the DE Events and street driving has been a little under 11,000 miles. After the first event the stock pads with about 1,000 miles on the car were ditched and the rotors turned due to pad build up on the rotors. Carboteck Panther 8 pads were installed and they made it through the next 5 events and 9,000 street miles. On the street in downtown Cincinnati in the morning the squeal tends to wake the pedestrians up so you do not need to blow the horn. At Mid Ohio with the Panther pads I was not totally comfortable slowing down on the back straight in comparison to 10 other different cars that I have driven there with other pads and brakes. No fade but still not up to P car brakes. So, I switched to Performance Friction Compound 97. The car was at VIR and again two drivers. No fade and the brakes felt good. Again two fast drivers. As a result with the car running on the South course with two hard braking zones, the valve cap stems were almosted melted and did seriously deform. My front Brembos are now a maroon/ black color instead of red. Again though there was no fade and they held up. The next set I will try will be a Pagid compound. I have run them on P cars and they have held up and have felt like you threw out an anchor. As part of the upgrade also I am going to install brake cooling ducts like the P car Kool Kits on the market. Don't forget that no matter how much horsepower you have and how fast your car will go in a straight line you still have to slow down for the next turn(usually a slow turn after a long 135mph straight) when you are driving on a road course.
Oct 12, 2004, 01:41 PM
#38
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The Performance Friction 97's were the other pad on my "try" list.
I made almost a full summer on the OEM pads driving St. Cloud and the other small tracks around our area. I did have to work through some minor pad transfer issues, though. I tried Bobcats for about 6 months and found them to a bit better than OEM, but not what I wanted. I've been driving the XP-8s both on and off the track this summer, and am really happy with them. I have been in (track only) cars with more brakes, but nothing that weighed as much as an Evo. I plan to continue to use the XP-8s as a "combo" pad for both on and off track use. I hear they are a bit harder on the rotors than the OEM pads, but I'll live with that for the increased bite and fade resistance.
I can appreciate your feelings about braking into turn 1 at BIR. I haven't spent too much time on that track and brake for it. With my mods I'm usually about 150 (or a bit more) by the time I need the brakes though. OT, but my goal for next year is 160 by turn 1 - not sure I'll make it, but It's fun to try.
I made almost a full summer on the OEM pads driving St. Cloud and the other small tracks around our area. I did have to work through some minor pad transfer issues, though. I tried Bobcats for about 6 months and found them to a bit better than OEM, but not what I wanted. I've been driving the XP-8s both on and off the track this summer, and am really happy with them. I have been in (track only) cars with more brakes, but nothing that weighed as much as an Evo. I plan to continue to use the XP-8s as a "combo" pad for both on and off track use. I hear they are a bit harder on the rotors than the OEM pads, but I'll live with that for the increased bite and fade resistance.
I can appreciate your feelings about braking into turn 1 at BIR. I haven't spent too much time on that track and brake for it. With my mods I'm usually about 150 (or a bit more) by the time I need the brakes though. OT, but my goal for next year is 160 by turn 1 - not sure I'll make it, but It's fun to try.
Last edited by erioshi; Oct 12, 2004 at 01:44 PM.
Oct 15, 2004, 08:10 PM
#40
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I "warped" a set of stock rotors with PF97 pads. But the reality of the situation is that I glazed the discs at a track event. Also while at the event I got the rotor hot enough to go cone shaped. It was bad enough to ruin the pads. Since I had already turned the rotors down previously, I use Stasis/Alcon two-piece rotors now.
Nov 4, 2004, 06:01 AM
#41
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I've had the rotors turned 3 times now under warranty. My dealer seems pretty cool about it. Said they have it happen all the time. I think I can get one more turn out of them before new rotors. All of that is under warranty too. I don't know about all this pad transfer stuff, but I brake hard sometimes without fixing the problem. Pretty sure it's just the thick Brembo rotors warping when they get hot and then cool off quickly. Anyway, you guys should definitely have the Mitsu dealer turn the rotors before buying a new set of rotors and/or pads. Should fix 99% of the problems IMO.
Nov 4, 2004, 08:18 AM
#42
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Since my switch from the stock pads to Ferodos I haven't had any brake problems until this past weekend at the track. I put on the 3000s like usual for track use and it only took half the first day to get a bad pad transfer. Of course in these conditions it only got worse as the pad material built up on the high spot. Eventually I had to call it quits. I don't know why I got bad transfer this time but not all the other times before. But the problem wore the pads VERY quickly and now the front 3000s are toast. Somehow though, I talked mitsu into turning the rotors for me FREE. Last time I had to pay for it. I'm really hoping that the front rotors are too worn to be turned and they'll just give me new ones. 
But I'll take whatever I can get.
I used good cool down procedures always taking it extra slow on the cool down lap. The transfer still happened. I'm starting to wonder if something else actually is warped causing the pads to build up in on spot on the rotors? Hub, wheels?
But I'll take whatever I can get.I used good cool down procedures always taking it extra slow on the cool down lap. The transfer still happened. I'm starting to wonder if something else actually is warped causing the pads to build up in on spot on the rotors? Hub, wheels?
Nov 8, 2004, 08:43 PM
#43
My brake shudder when braking down from 80mph after 3 track days, I have my rotor turned at 6k mile. Installed the brake air guide and went to track, no issue so far.
Nov 9, 2004, 03:40 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by soapsuds
Did you run the XP-8s on the street, or did you just swap out pads at the track? I'm definitely going to have to get track pads next year--in the past I would get brake fade due to fluid boiling which probably kept the pads from getting too hot, but after I switched to high-temp brake fluid I was starting to get pretty serious pad transfer issues (shuddering under braking) up at BIR this fall with the stock pads. I'm always really careful to stay off the brakes on the cooldown lap and drive around for a bit, not using the e-brake, etc. I've managed to get enough of it off by hard braking to make it fine for street driving, but I'll probably have to get the rotors blanched or whatever it's called before I go to the track again in the spring... it wasn't much fun to have tons of brake shudder at 135 mph coming into a high speed turn.
What track are you driving that allows for you to come off those speeds into braking?
Percy
