Coil overs
I'm def not shy with curbing on track.
As far as spacers, I think most people that are anti-spacers haven't run them correctly. They either use the wrong studs, buy cheap crap or don't understand physics and engineering.
I've beat the heck out of both sets of NT03's I have on my 10 with zero issues. If you like the style, then they are a great cost + performance ratio wheel.
I'm def not shy with curbing on track.
As far as spacers, I think most people that are anti-spacers haven't run them correctly. They either use the wrong studs, buy cheap crap or don't understand physics and engineering.
I'm def not shy with curbing on track.
As far as spacers, I think most people that are anti-spacers haven't run them correctly. They either use the wrong studs, buy cheap crap or don't understand physics and engineering.
Looks like the PO was running some shoddy spacers anyways so I’m opting for ARP studs with a new spacer. I’m getting a slight squeak from the front driver side and I’m pretty sure it’s the wheel bearing 👎
I ended up going with the 8k/10k rates as they are not currently on back order - that being said I’m happier to have the 10k rears to start with without totally overblowing my entry level setup.
You will be stoked with the 8/10. If getting spacers, just be sure to get a set that is hub centric and use hub centric rings for your wheels. That should take care of wobbles and vibration.
Ok cool thanks for the support! Now it’s off to my timing belt/water pump change (60k service) and I’m totally dreading 😞. If anyone is in Orange County and has done a few of these let me know! It’s pretty much the last thing on earth that I want to mess up right now.
I'd suggest investing in timing belt tools. They make the job 10000000x easier and I can't imagine adjusting the mechanical tensioner without them. You will want the tool for that, the one that holds the cam gears still is a HUGE help. The one that compresses the hydraulic tensioner is really only essential for work where you're not replacing it. New hydro tensioner = no need for that tool.
4 weeks is nothing. I recommend waiting since there is no draw back going with 12k/14k.
I'd suggest investing in timing belt tools. They make the job 10000000x easier and I can't imagine adjusting the mechanical tensioner without them. You will want the tool for that, the one that holds the cam gears still is a HUGE help. The one that compresses the hydraulic tensioner is really only essential for work where you're not replacing it. New hydro tensioner = no need for that tool.









