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8k/9k is about the most I can stand on Ohlins R&T. Anything above this causes the car to follow the road contours so strongly as to be uncomfortable on anything but smooth roads.
I prefer 14-16k/20-22k but some of my friends tell me Im soft
So I did some shopping around and can get a set of the new Gen7 500s with swift springs for $1400 shipped. Wich is basically free swift springs and shipping. I can get the 510s with swift springs for $2275,but if im going to spend 2k+ I feel like I should just get the Ohlins. The FA500s come standard 8k8k... Would it be safe to say to just go with 8k10k? Car will see the street more than the track but is not a daily. Hope to make it to the track at least 4-5 times this year. Running a 26mm RSB if that makes a difference in the rear rates, 255 or 265(still have decided between staying on 17s or going 18s) 200TW tires AD08Rs or A052s...
My guess is that 8K/10K with a 26 mm RSB would be an oversteer monster. Probably depends somewhat on your whp level and the stickiness of your tires. But the good news is that springs are cheap, so if too much oversteer, either swap springs or maybe go to smaller RSB.
I say get ohlins. Saving maybe $500 isn't worth it. They are 100% better for street manners, and the bump absorption capability directly translates to autocross and track performance because I've never been in a perfect parking lot for AX, or an a brand new 100% not bumpy road course.
There's a $674 difference between the two, are the Ohlins really worth the extra cost? How do the Ohlins do on track? Seems like all people talk about is how good they are on the street....
Originally Posted by mrfred
My guess is that 8K/10K with a 26 mm RSB would be an oversteer monster. Probably depends somewhat on your whp level and the stickiness of your tires. But the good news is that springs are cheap, so if too much oversteer, either swap springs or maybe go to smaller RSB.
I was kinda thinking the same thing! If the 10k in the rear with the big sway bar would be too much. Maybe 9k would be better?
There's a $674 difference between the two, are the Ohlins really worth the extra cost? How do the Ohlins do on track? Seems like all people talk about is how good they are on the street....
I was kinda thinking the same thing! If the 10k in the rear with the big sway bar would be too much. Maybe 9k would be better?
1. They are definitely worth it, IF you can swing it.
2. We talk about their street manners because all decent coilovers work well in the track, when set up right, and OP mentioned driving his car around town.
Ohlins perform as well as any coilover in it's price range (and possibly more expensive) at the track AND are unmatched on the street.
3. My 8/10 with a 25mm RSB set one from full soft handled GREAT. I can't vouch for the 26 mm.
1. They are definitely worth it, IF you can swing it.
2. We talk about their street manners because all decent coilovers work well in the track, when set up right, and OP mentioned driving his car around town.
Ohlins perform as well as any coilover in it's price range (and possibly more expensive) at the track AND are unmatched on the street.
3. My 8/10 with a 25mm RSB set one from full soft handled GREAT. I can't vouch for the 26 mm.
If I remember right, you have a +/- 2k window for valving, so going from 8 to 10 and visa versa should be fine (I'd still confirm with the manufacturer). You could always request they be valved for 8f/10r, then you would be good for anything 6/8 to 10/12.
There's a $674 difference between the two, are the Ohlins really worth the extra cost? How do the Ohlins do on track? Seems like all people talk about is how good they are on the street....
I was kinda thinking the same thing! If the 10k in the rear with the big sway bar would be too much. Maybe 9k would be better?
They work extremely well on track. As I stated, their bump absorption ability that equates to ride comfort turn into the ability to handle uneven surfaces at speed without the car becoming unsettled, even with the dampers turned up.
You're getting a much nicer part from Ohlins. The digressive piston FA uses is simple, old, technology. They're likely just using a convex face to preload the shim stack, which increase the low speed damping of thinner shims, but still allows for high speed blow off. The ohlins use two separate pistons with a bleed port that opens with high shaft speeds to send oil to the second piston, so everything is fully controlled.
Also, the lower mount on the front dampers is not held in place with a lock collar, it uses pinch bolts so it never comes loose. This is a common issue with coilovers that use a lock collar on the lower mount. The ohlins also use an inverted front damper, which is much stronger and more resistant to flex than the standard damper used by FA.
Originally Posted by kaj
1. They are definitely worth it, IF you can swing it.
2. We talk about their street manners because all decent coilovers work well in the track, when set up right, and OP mentioned driving his car around town.
Ohlins perform as well as any coilover in it's price range (and possibly more expensive) at the track AND are unmatched on the street.
3. My 8/10 with a 25mm RSB set one from full soft handled GREAT. I can't vouch for the 26 mm.
Having driven a few different coilovers; to include Stance, FA, BC, and AST, I can say the Ohlins far exceed anything in their price range. Their equal on track would be a much more expensive set of single adjustable MCS or AST coilovers. FA's do not compare.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jan 8, 2019 at 01:01 PM.
Unless my searching skills have failed, i find it hard to believe there has been no comprehensive coilover shootout, complete w/Dyno plots & subsequent tear-down
With all the money that Engineering guy has, it wouldnt take much to coordinate a shop to do a C/O'r Dyno Shootout. After the plotting, tear down each C/O'r & examine the seals / valve stack / pistons etc & have this independent shop give an educated opinion as to build & performance quality
Might be because most people can't understand a dyno graph, wouldn't know what the differences mean anyway, and results are proven at the track.
I guess it would be cool to see some data, but I'm not sure it would influence my buying decision.
Might be because most people can't understand a dyno graph, wouldn't know what the differences mean anyway, and results are proven at the track.
I guess it would be cool to see some data, but I'm not sure it would influence my buying decision.
The graphs would be interpreted by the expert and explained to us layman
Today it seems all the comments are purely uninformed / unverified opinion. Show me the facts
Last edited by MinusPrevious; Jan 8, 2019 at 06:26 PM.
If unanimous testimony and lap times aren't enough...then yeah. I guess facts are good too.
At the same time ,if all we had were facts and charts then everyone would be like, "yeah, but I want to hear from people with real-world experience".
So ,either way ,I guess..?
I found found my self in the same position regarding the same decision.
I also feel after quite a bit of reading on the topic that an often overlooked coil over in this category is the HKS Hipermax.
The HKS comes in two varieties as well (gt/sp) and the fronts are inverted like the ohlins. If shopping around both varieties of HKS can be had for under 1,500 shipped.
I picked up the FA 500 with swift 8/10 on Black Friday for a really good price. I was under impression that radial bearings were included but they were not. (Trying to sort out with vendor). But now I wonder if I should have purchased the HKS
