You engine blowing up is not a joke. And know one is at the door! Vivid Racing would like to introduce a new product to the EVO community called a Knock Link by Link Electro in New Zealand. We have been using these for years in the Subaru Market and now you need one. Here is the scoop...


Knock Who? Thats right! Knock Sensors are probably pretty new to the EVO community here in the USA. Link Electro of New Zealand has developed this important tool called the Knock Link. The knock link, as you see in the picture, is a basic black box with a multiple of LED's on it. The box uses a power and ground wire and then has a sensor that runs into the engine bay and mounts on the engine block to measure vibration. This has proved in the Subaru industry to be one of the most vital tools on the market for tuning, racing, and simply getting more power safely. The sensor measures knock which in turn is vibration. Knock is bad, very bad. The lights on the box go from green to bright green to RED! The green is ok to have some vibration, but when the bright green and red go off it is time to get off the gas. Continuous knock will blow your motor up and you will be out some duckets! Having this device will enable you to adjust your fuel, turn your boost up, run you car, and you will know when it is time to let off. An air fuel gauge is recommend as well, but for the $200 price tag of the Knock Link, it will save you for days to come.

The Knock Link install is very easy. Run the sensor cord through the firewall at whatever point you want to. Attach the wires to the plug with hardware provided, then clip onto the sensor. The sensor needs to be bolted to the engine block, manifold, or any other vibration area on the engine. Take any existing bolt out and replace it with a longer one to bolt the sensor too.

Once the sensor is attached mount the Knock Link box where you desire and connect the power and ground cables. The lower green light will be on to signify power. Light tap the sensor with a screw driver or pen to see if it measures the vibration. The lights on the box should go up as the vibration increases. Now that it is all setup go drive your car around. FLOOR IT! If the lights do not go up, this is a good thing. If you adjust boost higher or tune the fuel and the lights go to the midway this is OK, if you pass midway and the lights flash bright let off the gas. You are now safe courtesy of Vivid Racing!



The Knock Link Kits are sold through Vivid Racing an authorized Link Dealer. They include all hardware needed for install.
Knock Link Box
Bosch Sensor
Plug

This is one mod you dont want to skip especially when you start turning up the boost!

You can order online at
http://www.vividracing.com/main/prod_knocksen.php

Or call to order...
Price for the kit is $242.97 and remember Vivid Racing has FREE SHIPPING.

www.vividracing.com
sales@vividracing.com
480-966-3040

 

Great idea, they just need to pretty up that big ol' black box. I assume this product would work for other cars (such as a turbo OZ Lancer)?

 

yes any car as it measures vibration.

 

I have to say this is a simple system that works!

Power and Ground !

This has saved my WRX motor time and time again.

Eric

 

Isnt there a stock knock sensor that the ECU uses??


THere was a way in the 2g DSM world to plug in to the ECU and setup your own LEDs.

 

Yes it is a super motor saver!

The stock ECU does not tell you when your car is knocking and let off the gas. Mine stop talking to me weeks ago after I put everything on it

This is a serious important tool for your car.

 

I rather use a J&S knock sensor.. It has the ability to retard timming.. which makes it safer...



(besides the fact that the stock ecu does this for you anyway) but this would give you control of it if you want that..

Another idea would to get an ODB2 logger, that has alarms you can set.. have it send an alarm when the know hits a curtain value.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/safeguard.html

 

Thanks for hijacking the thready...

There are tons of options out there...Personally why would I want a Laptop or Palm Pilot to look at while I am driving. That is the advantage of the knock link being in the right place.

As far as retarding your timing...with the flash of the light you get off the gas, you have to be pretty no smart to keep the gas on and say, "The car feels sluggish"

 

Obviously you didn't look at the link.. It is a box just like the knocklink..


Sorry, but it is a more useful product.. i don't care if you are using the forum for marketing, i use it for information, and i will post usful information for people.



Knocklink is a decent tool, but is not proactive.. And only trained people are going to watch the blinky led and let off the gas when they see one light up.. what happens when you let someone else drive it?


I am not a vendor or selling anything, just pointing out a more useful product IMO. (Maybe you should sell it )


-Zach

 

There are rules...

 

My big question is "What is a safe knock number to run without worrie" I have the SAFC II know sensor setup and it shows knock even on stock settings so what numbers are in the safe boundery or what number retartds timing on the stock ECU? I want to tune but I also want it to last a long time. Anyone can build a engine but making it hold together for a long time is the key.

 

Apex i said under a 70 count is ok

 

Doesn't the SAFC II montitor knock?

 

Yes it does and that is what I am using.

 

Holy **** the amount of bad information spread in these forums is incredible.

The stock ECU does read knock and it does not stop reading because of mods unless you unplug it from the ECU.

The stock ECU will pull timing when knock is registered to prevent the motor from blowing up as you put it

Small counts of knock will not blow your motor with the size turbo and boost level most are running on their EVO 8.

Without going into a super technical explination.When using fast burn fuels, less timing and small amounts of knock will yield the most power. This has been proven time and time again. I personally run 25 psi on pump fuel and purposely tune in 3-5 counts of knock.

There is absolutely no reason to purchase a second Knock sensor to have a dash mounted knock display . A playback devise like a palm or lap top based logger is 100% better. Because it will record exactly where when the motor is knocking.

Example:

you select the data points that you want to record during a tuning run. Usually rpm, timing advance and knock. You make a 3rd gear WOT pull to red line. You pull the car over and review the details of that run and make fuel corrections based on the data you collected on that run.

Last time, knock will not blow your motor because the ECU pulls timing when knock reaches a certain level.


EDIT

Vivid you also have the sensor in the wrong location If you are going to run an independent Knock sensor. It should be mounted in the center of the block preferable between the number 2 and 3 cylinders. Do you realize how much mechanical noise is created by the cylinder head in the location shown in that picture. From the cams, lifters and valve chatter alone? . Obviously you don't.