Nope, bluetooth and hands free are controlled by the main head unit.

 

nice work

 

Ok.. I read in one of the many forums I've been looking at that the stock RF amp if unpluged will not power up again untill you manually switch it back on. Can anyone confirm if there is any truth to this?

 

I don't think that is true. I disconnected my battery (which is the same as unpluging the amp). And the piece of junk Rockford Amp worked fine when I put in the new battery. My advice would be to replace the Rockford Amp. The Rockford Amp is 100% pure crap.

 

Thanks for the reply Spoonie.

I'm actually adding a second amp to run an Infinty Sub. I am planning on bypassing the factory amp for that. I find that the door speakers get pretty loud with the RF amp.. so I'm still keeping the rest of the set up the same. Although I am changing the front door speakers and tweeters too.
Hopefully it will sound somewhat better.

 

You're making a HORRIBLE mistake. One I've already explained several times before, but I will do again.

The RF amp actively changes the levels on the EQ. You have zero control over this. This means if you add a second amp that does no EQ limiting, they will always be out of balance. You will turn the volume up, the sub will get louder, and the speakers won't.

Unless of course you amplify the already amplified signal, in which case, that's an even bigger mistake.

Replace the RF amp, and do it right.

 

Well.. I bypassed the factory RF amp and feed the line out to the new amp. Got a signal.. but.. the volume level doesn't change. It's always at a constent level even if I turn the HU down to zero the new amp and sub play at a constent. Does anyone know what the possible problem or solution is?

I'm using a MTX JH300 to run my 10" Infinty sub.

There is a setting on the amp called smart engage.. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it.

 

good information on this thread. subscribed.

 

Are you sure you tapped into the right wires??? The low level wires definitely have a faded signal (changes with vol change). I'm not sure what you would have tapped into if the volume doesn't change.

 

webman i pm'd you. check it out when you can please.

 

Awesome writeup!!! I can't wait to do this next year. Replaced my HU first and doing the speakers/amp and maybe sub possibly summertime. Nothing crazy, looking for mostly drop in replacements without much of a headache lol

 

I have a question, and I know nothing about audio systems, but what if I had a 4 channel 350W amp, 4 channel LOC (or would a 8-channel make a difference?), and a stereo 800W amp, could I use the LOC to convert the output from the RF head-unit to the amp? And then use the 800W amp to power the 10" sub?

I know that there are 8 speakers, and that if you send the same signal to tweeter/6.5" you will blow the tweeters, but I don't understand what the crossovers do and where/how I would install them.

I am trying to keep up with what was said in the thread, and I am unsure how if I were to use the LOC, how the volume would increase/decrease.

I think I may be overcomplicating the issue, but I think its because I am very novice and struggling to follow the original install design logic. Subwoofers alone seem so much easier... I will accept PMs as I am kinda stoopid and dont mean to waste anyones time if this is obvious to everyone else reading the thread.

 

When the following operations are performed with the audio power ON, the sound volume during driving and the ON/OFF of sound quality automatic correction function are switched.

1. Press and hold (approximately 2 seconds ) the sound adjustment switch.
2. Press the sound adjustment switch (approximately 1.5 seconds or less) to switch to the SCV setting screen.
3. SCV ON (when the automatic correction function is ON) or SCV OFF (when the automatic correction function is OFF) is displayed.
4. Turn the sound adjustment switch knob to switch between SCV ON and OFF.
5. Press the sound adjustment switch or leave as it is for 10 seconds or more.
6. Go back to the audio normal screen.

 

So the last post was like 8 months ago, but essentially tells you how to turn off the most annoying part of the RF amp right?

If you do this, is the RF amp worth keeping then? Or is it still crap?
Seems like that would eliminate the biggest need for an aftermarket amp.

 

I've got to say - thanks for this inspiration. Zeroflux's thread on replacing the OEM amp got me going when mine burned-out, but then coming across this thread got me to replace EVERYTHING in my old RF system. I even modified my original sub box like yours (that would have frustrated the living s--t outta me if I tried to figure it out myself) - except I cut a small MDF circle to plug-up that port that has to be hacksawed-off and used a different thickness.

Do I miss the RF system? I did when I was going through the absolute pain in the rear of installing this stuff, especially when I ran new wire for the rear speakers when I couldn't get the OEM wiring to ohm-out, but now that it's all in? Not at all. My new system is far, far louder and the quality is far more pristine than the RF ever was (but then again I didn't do any skimping on quality parts).

My next step is a Dynamat project. I thought I wouldn't need it - but with my JL Audio XD 700/5 amp, sending a full 300 watts to my JL 10w3v3-2, it's obvious that I need it in the very least - the trunk (the sub looks like it's going to tear the box apart as it hits and vibrates my whole ***-end). But while I'm at it I might as well do the doors/floor/etc as well to kill what's left-over for road noise when I'm not blasting the stereo.

Again, Kudos...and if you're ever in the DFW area, you're more than welcome to stop-by and hear the beast I've created.