Replacing the stock RF stereo
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 327
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From: Denver, CO
Filters and crossovers are different. A filter is usually the first stage to cutting a signal down to what it needs to be. The crossover is the last stage.
Think of it this way:
You have four numbers going through a wire:
||||
1 2 3 4
You only want the low numbers, so you turn on your low pass filter (LPF) on your amp.
Now when the numbers go through they may look like this:
|||
1 2 2.5 3
The LPF doesn't completely cut out the high signal, it dulls it out a bit.
So the next stage is the crossover (assuming you use the low section of the crossover).
||
1 2 (rest of the signal is disregarded)
However, if you didn't have that LPF turned on in the first place, it may look like:
|||
1 2 2.75
It's hard for crossovers to get everything out when they are getting a full signal. The filters will help get some of the signal out before the crossover.
My example is lame
Think of it this way:
You have four numbers going through a wire:
||||
1 2 3 4
You only want the low numbers, so you turn on your low pass filter (LPF) on your amp.
Now when the numbers go through they may look like this:
|||
1 2 2.5 3
The LPF doesn't completely cut out the high signal, it dulls it out a bit.
So the next stage is the crossover (assuming you use the low section of the crossover).
||
1 2 (rest of the signal is disregarded)
However, if you didn't have that LPF turned on in the first place, it may look like:
|||
1 2 2.75
It's hard for crossovers to get everything out when they are getting a full signal. The filters will help get some of the signal out before the crossover.
My example is lame
So... from my other reading then it would seem I need a passive crossover correct? I really cant spend much more money than I already have on this project for a while.... is this something a "car toys" should have in stock for somewhat cheap?
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,016
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From: Denver, CO
And if you need some help, just hit me up. I live sorta on the north side of town and can help you out for sure.
Thread Starter
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From: Denver, CO
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 327
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From: Denver, CO
Ok... so power line from battery to amp, 4 gauge with inline glass fuse (30amp?).
2 crossovers
power on line from back of the head unit
Then just hook it all up (and I lose the balance or fade ability because that is all actually amp controlled?)
That should be it right?
2 crossovers
power on line from back of the head unit
Then just hook it all up (and I lose the balance or fade ability because that is all actually amp controlled?)
That should be it right?
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 327
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From: Denver, CO
So the pic that Zeroflux posted of the wiring harness shows a Sub L/R +/-..... why does it have a left and right channel? Do those just get combined to have both +'s on the same connector?
Oh, and how do you find out which line is + and which is -?
Oh, and how do you find out which line is + and which is -?
Last edited by Spy007; Apr 6, 2010 at 11:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
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From: Denver, CO
It's not actually left and right.... The stock sub has a dual voice coil, so that's one pair for each voice coil I think they are 4ohm coils, which means that if you wire them parallel, you have a 2 ohm load and a potential for too much power. Wire them in series, and it's an 8ohm load which may be a tad better for the stock sub. I just wired mine in parallel, and had blown the stock sub in no time! But I didn't care.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 327
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From: Denver, CO
How do I wire them in series? I can kinda figure that doing it at the sub itself, so perhaps in my mind its simply just hooking up the one set to the amp, then at the sub itself, cut the second sets wires and daisychain them off the connections from the first set?
Again... thanks for the answers. I really do appreciate them!
Again... thanks for the answers. I really do appreciate them!
i would really appreciate a how-to or some quick pics of the doors when finished with the edead. i have some sound deadening material that's been sitting in my closet since my last car and i'm gonna do the trunk and doors. does the trunk lining help with quieting the cabin noise from the exhaust or just help with bass response? thanks in advance
Thread Starter
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From: Denver, CO
I still have to finish all the edead work. I haven't made it to the trunk lid or doors yet. I did, however, just do the two doors in my truck, and it made a significant difference. Door speakers sound a bit better, and the road noise is lessened. As soon as I do, I'll post up the pics. Still need to buy rear door speakers before I tackle that.