Web.... i have been reading around and saw mention of something called an LOC. Have you heard of this and can you shed any more light on it? It seems to be something that intercepts the signal from the head unit and seperates the channels and then connects to the amp with the RCA cables.

http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=C2A-CHY

anbd then there is this...
http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=MITO-02

 

Im guessing the MITO-02 is for installing a new head unit but maintaining the factory amp?

 

Looks like there are a few... Line Output Converters. Scares me how tiny they are, so I'm weary how well they separate the signals.

 

I called Pac-Audio on the C2A-CHY and they didnt know if it would work or not... damn

 

That first one looks like it might work, but I guess I'm not sure how audio works within the CAN bus system.

Either way, I think I'd still be willing to lose fading. Nobody ever sits in the back anyway, lol.

 

This one looks interesting:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/wiring...iring-loc.html

I honestly haven't heard of them before, time to do some research.

 

Yeah I think the C2A-CHY unit looks really interesting, someone test it

 

Great job putting all this together. I am about to take the plunge and do the amp (1st stage), then speakers (2nd stage), then sub and possibly another amp for it, and I have been reading those three other threads over and over. Now I have a one stop place for all my questions as I go through.

I have a question about the sub. Do you think there is any way to add an amp for the mid/high and leave the sub wiring alone? Maybe splitting the line in(s) off to another amp and leave them connected to the original amp? Reason I ask is because the car has enough clear bass for my music tastes now, and I would like to leave it until I get around to upgrading the sub.

 

I dont know if you can continue to use your RF amp to power your sub seperately from a new amp powering your other speakers. Since its CAN BUS driven and does all kinds of alternative tuning... it may not work.

 

That would be a horrible idea. The reason is because even though the volume levels going into each amp is the same, what comes out is going to be completely different. The two sets will be completely out of sync with each other because the stock amp is doing its stupid volume limiting, and the other amp is not. You will have bass that is fading up and down and not keeping itself level with the rest of the music.

However, the stock sub is pretty decent. As long as you don't overpower it, you'll be ok running it with any aftermarket amp.

 

I stand Corrected. You are correct. I'd say that the mounting depth is around what you said. My speaker blew and when I removed it, the speaker was touching both the bottom piece (that was sawed off) and the side peice. I'm going with an Image Dynamics sub which has like a 5" mounting depth. So you were indeed correct

 

Nice install man. I have a question. How does the 10W3v3 sound? I mean can you hear and feel it at volume? I have a 10W6v2 and it hits for sure but the heavily enclosed trunk really deadens it out. It just seems like a 10W3v3 in the OEM enclosure wouldn't be too much different then the stock sub. But then again I ditched the stock amp and its volume control too so maybe it sounds alright with a decent amp.

 

hi to every body and specially to webman!!!

very compliments for the job you made!! i have only one question!!



-i need to know if i have a 4 ohm sub what wires i must connect???
-i want to knwo if one of the others wires that you don't know one is the turn on signal wire for operating the aftermarket amp???if not how i can operate it remote??? or how i can do??

please answer me as soon as possible because i have the car in pieces!!!

 

Normal pin outputs from any headunit/stereo that utilizes a "Power IC" or module that has +wattage outputs needs this unit installed. (Like a headunit is advertised as 50w x 4, which means each harness connection from the amp will receive +50w output from the Power IC to drive speakers). Essentially, you're sending signal + "power" through the wires to a speaker. Amplifier RCA is very low "power," as what you are looking for is actually pre-amp signal without "power," because it will do nothing but create issues for your amplifier through unnecessary interference. DO NOT TRY TO AMPLIFY A POWER IC AMPLIFIED SOURCE. It will probably ruin your amp.

LOC units pretty much receive the Power IC amplified signal from the outputs on the normal harness pins and remove the amplification for amplifier use. Preferably, you use aftermarket headunits with RCA outputs built-in for clean pre-amp signal to your amplifiers. Using headunits without these RCA's require you to use LOC units to achieve the same effect. Some amplifiers accept direct signal (a few Clarion models in my own experience) and these connections on these amplifiers do the same thing as the LOC.

 

You don't *need* a crossover, but you are risking blowing the tweeters unless you have the crossover on the PDX set very high for the fronts. It will drive them fine since it runs at the same power level at different ohm loads, however the lower frequencies run the risk of blowing the tweeters if you do not limit them.

Really, your best option would be to still do that and get a pair of bass-blockers (or the correct caps that do the same thing) to block only the sound to the tweeters, then pair the tweeters with the door speakers on the amp.