Hi all !

I'm hoping someone can confirm wether this can work or not.

I have a EvoX GSR with the RF system w/o Nav. and the ipod intergration is beyond horrible and the HPF (subsonic filter) on the subwoofer really bothers me.

So my plan was to replace the stock H.U. with something else and use the MITO-02 to send speaker signal to the factory RF amp, and send the sub signal from the aftermarket deck to a new amp / sub setup, bypassing the factory amp for the sub portion.

So, I guess the main question is would the whole system work normally or would I be getting myself into something f***ed up because the volume on the radio would only control the subwoofer part of the system (because of the constant 4V signal to the amp).

Thanks for any feedback !

 

Well, the aftermarket sub amp would have a sensitivity adjustment to compensate and balance volumes.

But with another craiglist-cheap used 4 channel amp you would have much more control and less balance issues (and more control over signal processing)... Consider an active crossover for complete control...

But then the issue becomes the 1 ohm impedence RF speakers... So you would replace them also because they are a risk to the amp failing if it is not 1 ohm stable (and most are not - only some sub mono amps are 1 ohm stable)...

I would suggest spend the additional money and go 'all in' (and sell the RF gear to off-set it, eh?)

 

I thought the RF speakers were 2ohms for the front 6.5" and 4ohms for tweets and rears.

Sub I know is dual 1ohm, but if/when I do use a seperate amp for the sub, I'll be changing the sub as well.

Anyways, my plan is to get a H.U. that does 3-way active so that i'll be set if I ever do decide to go active. And I already have a pair of highend 6.5" mids to use.

 

yeah you could do that as long as you run the new sub/amp just off the RCA.

The MITO (which SUCKS) will control/turn on the rest of the system. If you want to disable the factory sub completely, unplug it.

You're better off just eliminating the entire factory RF system. You could drop a few hundred bucks on an amp and front door speakers and just do a rewire (see my thread for fast rewire, takes 10 minutes), and have MUCH BETTER sound.

 

Why do you say the MITO sucks ? Could you elaborate ?

And I've seen your rewiring thread. You realize that just sticking generic x-overs in there might not be the best idea ?

Most of the passive x-overs I've seen for that price are the generic ones lying around surplus electronic stores that are made for home speakers which are generally 8ohm drivers. The ones in our car are 2ohms and 4 ohms (or 1 and 4, not sure anymore based on what veronica said). This completely changes the crossover frequencies causing a gap in the sound played by the speakers.

Using a basic x-over calculator (1st order passive), if the x-overs you got were built for 8 ohms drivers around a theoretical 3000hz x-over point, the tweeter at 4ohms would now cross at 6000hz and the 2ohms woofer at 750hz.

So, at around 2000hz which would be around their cross point, at -6db/oct, it would cause about a -6db drop at that frequency. If it's a 2nd order x-over, we're talking -15db at their crossing frequency. -24db in a 3rd order and -33db in a 4th order x-over. So anything beyond the most basic of crossovers gives you a gap that cannot be recovered through EQ.

I'm just saying you have to use a x-over adapted to (at bare minimum) the impedance of the speakers connected to it.

 

I went the route of putting in a new deck and using the MITO-02 to power up the RF amplification to run it, and frankly it sounded worse than stock. Not two weeks later I'd bought an Alpine 5 channel amp, a proper sub, some focal components, and had the rest of the RF system removed.

 

they weren't generic, they were proper crossovers, the thread was just to show the wiring points for a door passthrough. Crossover wiring is, like you said, a precise thing. In my car, I just replaced everything.

I can tell you know car audio well, better than me I think, and I can say this with all confidence: you will HATE the MIT 02. It sounds like butt. Muddled, sloppy, hard to adjust, noisy.

oh, and THEY CATCH ON FIRE!

Seriously they do. Mine did, a few others have too. It pulls too much current across the circuit board and melts it.

 

Alright, so change of plans.

I'm going to completely bypass the whole RF system in there.

That being said, I'm wondering it the wire harness that I had to connect a headunit to the non-rf system from my previous 2010 Lancer will fit in there to get Power, Acc and Ground to the new headunit. Or will I have to have fun searching what wire does what and splice into the OEM harness ?