Headlight / Fog Light Upgrade
Hey guys, has anybody replaced their headlights or fog lights with a better bulb or different housing?
I find the OE lights to be too dim during rain, and I find that I would benefit from a whiter light during bad conditions and night-time driving.
Also, I hate how the fog lights or side illuminators (w/e they are) are a different color of light than the regular headlights.
Anybody have any good recommendations on upgrades for these?
I have also seen some awesome looking Audi style LED replacements for tail lights, but I don't know how trustworthy they are.
I find the OE lights to be too dim during rain, and I find that I would benefit from a whiter light during bad conditions and night-time driving.
Also, I hate how the fog lights or side illuminators (w/e they are) are a different color of light than the regular headlights.
Anybody have any good recommendations on upgrades for these?
I have also seen some awesome looking Audi style LED replacements for tail lights, but I don't know how trustworthy they are.
I upgraded my DRL lights with these http://www.ebay.com/itm/121047210520...S:1120&vxp=mtr
I love them give off a much cleaner crisp white. I haven't touched my stock HID bulbs yet though.
I also purchased LED lights and an HID 3k foglight kit from here. http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/
It's at least a place to start to look for better lighting.
I love them give off a much cleaner crisp white. I haven't touched my stock HID bulbs yet though.
I also purchased LED lights and an HID 3k foglight kit from here. http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/
It's at least a place to start to look for better lighting.
I upgraded my DRL lights with these http://www.ebay.com/itm/121047210520...S:1120&vxp=mtr
I love them give off a much cleaner crisp white. I haven't touched my stock HID bulbs yet though.
I also purchased LED lights and an HID 3k foglight kit from here. http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/
It's at least a place to start to look for better lighting.
I love them give off a much cleaner crisp white. I haven't touched my stock HID bulbs yet though.
I also purchased LED lights and an HID 3k foglight kit from here. http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/
It's at least a place to start to look for better lighting.
The light cutoff adjustment settings should still work with aftermarket lights, ya?
I haven't touched my evo lights yet (although I need to) but I usually just order the DDMTuning.com 4500k HID kit. The biggest issue is that the evo projector housings aren't all that great in the first place. You'll get better* light output from a better bulb setup, but retrofitting something like TSX projectors is going to improve your output the most.
Not quite sure what you're asking but there is a difference in non-HID headlights and HID headlights that came with evos. Fog lights are irrelevant, you can either get stupid silverstar bulbs for them or spend the same amount of money to get an HID kit for your foglights. Plug and play install.
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Hey guys this might be a noob question. But what is the watt ratings on our high beam bulbs? I was thinking just switching in some silverstar bulbs in there, but not sure if I should put 35 watts or 55 watt bulbs in there. I have hid in low beam and fogs but didn't want to put hid on high beams.
Brights already seem pretty bright to me, but...
You do not want HIDs for the high beams. Everytime you dip your lights for an oncoming driver and then put the brights back on - you are causing a 'hot strike' (sudden surge of power to jump the gap) which will quickly reduce the life of the bulb. That, combined with the time it takes to get HIDs up to power make it impractical. That is why cars with HID from the factory do not come with HIDs for the high beams...
Detail:
"Hot restrike" is largely a ballast function. The physics inside the HID capsule shortly after shutdown are generally not favorable to re-establishing the arc, so the ability to "hot restrike" is dependent on whether the ballast can brute-force the arc back into existence. Automotive ballasts are capable of hot-restrike as a side-effect of their ability to get the bulb to >50% brightness within the first few seconds of activation.
Hot restrike is, almost without exception, bad for the bulb. Some bulbs (particularly 35W D1/D2 autotmotive units) are rated for hot restike, but that just means they can survive to their rated hours with signifigantly more on/off cycles during their lifespan. Startup alone is hard on HID bulbs (big jumps in temperature and gas pressures) and hot restrike is like a number of startups back-to-back.
General rule of thumb for a HID system is to run it for at least 30-60 seconds after powerup so the bulb reaches operating temperature and pressure, then leave it off for as long as possible (at least 60 seconds) before switching it back on. You'll probably find yourself turning a HID on and off much less frequently than other lights simply because of the long startup time.
You do not want HIDs for the high beams. Everytime you dip your lights for an oncoming driver and then put the brights back on - you are causing a 'hot strike' (sudden surge of power to jump the gap) which will quickly reduce the life of the bulb. That, combined with the time it takes to get HIDs up to power make it impractical. That is why cars with HID from the factory do not come with HIDs for the high beams...
Detail:
"Hot restrike" is largely a ballast function. The physics inside the HID capsule shortly after shutdown are generally not favorable to re-establishing the arc, so the ability to "hot restrike" is dependent on whether the ballast can brute-force the arc back into existence. Automotive ballasts are capable of hot-restrike as a side-effect of their ability to get the bulb to >50% brightness within the first few seconds of activation.
Hot restrike is, almost without exception, bad for the bulb. Some bulbs (particularly 35W D1/D2 autotmotive units) are rated for hot restike, but that just means they can survive to their rated hours with signifigantly more on/off cycles during their lifespan. Startup alone is hard on HID bulbs (big jumps in temperature and gas pressures) and hot restrike is like a number of startups back-to-back.
General rule of thumb for a HID system is to run it for at least 30-60 seconds after powerup so the bulb reaches operating temperature and pressure, then leave it off for as long as possible (at least 60 seconds) before switching it back on. You'll probably find yourself turning a HID on and off much less frequently than other lights simply because of the long startup time.
In the next coming months I'll actually have my stock headlights be retrofitted with the FXR Projectors. Should give better/sharper output. That's an option but you'll basically have to bake and cut into your headlights, not sure if you're down for that.
Ya Im still debating this exact thing. Should I just bake and drop in some direct fit evox-r projectors. Or Should I go all out, bake cut the housing and reflector assembly and try to fit in the fx-r projectors. It seems like a bit too much work just for a little better light output? Or is it really that much better to possibly screw a whole headlight and have to reorder another, especially if your a noob like me. Ive already contacted a lot of people to do it for me on these forums and no one has pm's me back. It looks like I might have to dremel myself, which is super scary, I just dont want to f it up. and have to buy another set of lights haha. I am not scared of dremeling the plastic housing, but mostly scared of dremeling the reflective assembly. We have to dremel both right to get the fx-r in there?
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