lancer evolution x illumination package
Okay, so I officially gave up on the fade in and out idea. Now I wanna know.. is their a fuse that is on when the car is on but turns off when the car is turned off? Im not sure if the radio harness is one of them or not.. because I dont want constant power (lile the dome lights have when the car is turned off) I want the power to be restricted off when the car is off. Would that be the radio fuse? Im wiring up 4 LEDs so I may need the 30amps for safety. The dome lights have 15amps. I think I would be fine with that also anyway..
I tried to trace that harness, and whatever controls the fading is built into the dome light assembly itself
It has like a circuit board and bare circuits in it. Tapping off the wire as Rokpapziz did seems like the best way.LED's hardly pull any current so really any fuse is probably fine. You can use stereo fuse, ACC fuse, cluster I just wouldn't mess with because there is no advantage in using that source, and if something goes wrong and fries, it's better to blow a fuse or bulb than blow a $1500 dollar gauge cluster!
yeah the stereo fuse
I tried to trace that harness, and whatever controls the fading is built into the dome light assembly itself It has like a circuit board and bare circuits in it. Tapping off the wire as Rokpapziz did seems like the best way.
LED's hardly pull any current so really any fuse is probably fine. You can use stereo fuse, ACC fuse, cluster I just wouldn't mess with because there is no advantage in using that source, and if something goes wrong and fries, it's better to blow a fuse or bulb than blow a $1500 dollar gauge cluster!
I tried to trace that harness, and whatever controls the fading is built into the dome light assembly itself
It has like a circuit board and bare circuits in it. Tapping off the wire as Rokpapziz did seems like the best way.LED's hardly pull any current so really any fuse is probably fine. You can use stereo fuse, ACC fuse, cluster I just wouldn't mess with because there is no advantage in using that source, and if something goes wrong and fries, it's better to blow a fuse or bulb than blow a $1500 dollar gauge cluster!
if the fuse box isn't wired then no fuse can go in there. It would support whatever you stuck in there...but you'd have to pull the whole fuse box! If you're just looking to add some lights just add one of those Radio Shack $2 fuse tap kits.
Remember, the fuse doesn't protect the device, the fuse protects the CAR.
if the fuse box isn't wired then no fuse can go in there. It would support whatever you stuck in there...but you'd have to pull the whole fuse box! If you're just looking to add some lights just add one of those Radio Shack $2 fuse tap kits.
Remember, the fuse doesn't protect the device, the fuse protects the CAR.
I do believe those empty slots are already wired for power.. they are just empty...
I can't believe their is no source i can't tap into that will turn these LED's on when i use the unlock button on my remote control to unlock the doors. It would of been sweet to have these turn on when unlocking the doors with the key so when i open the doors they are already turned on... Oh well.. Looks like i will just tap into a empty slot and use a on and off switch...
Last edited by TxFAkuma; Aug 11, 2014 at 04:44 PM.
So I bought a "add a circuit" and wired my positive wire too this and pulled a 10amp fuse and then also placed a ATM mini fuse and tried many 2,4,5amp fuses and they all blew. Idk why they are. I've done research and it says the circuit holds max of 10amps so I dong exceed 10amps. For LED they are low powered so I try to apply a 2amp fuse into this device. Anything low. But they are all blowing. Idk why... any idea guys?
So... a quick update. I figured this out. I attached 4 24" LED stripes to all my doors and 1 6" stripe in the center console. I used a fuse circuit and ran it with the "optional" fuse slot in the interior cabin fuse box (located down left corner of steering wheel) and then ran a 2 AMP fuse with that "add a fuse circuit". Sp basically the 10amp fuse goes into the fuse slot closer to the prongs and the 2amp (or 3amp) goes into the other slot. Made sure all the wires were connected safely and correctly and worked like a charm. The blowing of the fuses that I was talking about earlier was caused by the wires getting chewed up by the doors when they were shutting. So I cut them and replaced them with thicker wires. Not the car looks beautiful with the lights on. Inside and outside when the doors open. Cool thing is, when your driving around and u flip the switch the inside interior of your car is very nice looking because of the LEDs under the door. Not visible outside of the vehicle.
it actually runs off a relay somewhere, but I haven't traced it out yet. Someday I will.
I did find that the Evo X is prewired for a rear 12v outlet tho. There's a panel behind the arm rest. if you pop it off, there's a plug for an outlet there. Then, under the cup panel, there's an undone empty plug and a male plug. When you click them together...tada! You got 12v power outlet lol
I did find that the Evo X is prewired for a rear 12v outlet tho. There's a panel behind the arm rest. if you pop it off, there's a plug for an outlet there. Then, under the cup panel, there's an undone empty plug and a male plug. When you click them together...tada! You got 12v power outlet lol
So... a quick update. I figured this out. I attached 4 24" LED stripes to all my doors and 1 6" stripe in the center console. I used a fuse circuit and ran it with the "optional" fuse slot in the interior cabin fuse box (located down left corner of steering wheel) and then ran a 2 AMP fuse with that "add a fuse circuit". Sp basically the 10amp fuse goes into the fuse slot closer to the prongs and the 2amp (or 3amp) goes into the other slot. Made sure all the wires were connected safely and correctly and worked like a charm. The blowing of the fuses that I was talking about earlier was caused by the wires getting chewed up by the doors when they were shutting. So I cut them and replaced them with thicker wires. Not the car looks beautiful with the lights on. Inside and outside when the doors open. Cool thing is, when your driving around and u flip the switch the inside interior of your car is very nice looking because of the LEDs under the door. Not visible outside of the vehicle.
Have any pics?
Also, any idea what the OEM footwell LED kit consists of? I would assume it should be mostly plug and play, meaning some sort of plug/connector that might save the hassle of all of this wire tracing and tapping/splicing. You might be able to buy it, plug it in, then splice whatever crazy LEDs you want into that harness.
...unless of course it doesn't come with a harness and instead gives you some T taps or something. Anyone have any experience with the OEM kit???
I'm the OP. Yes i have pictures of it finished now. I'll post them when i find a decent USB charger to plug my phone in my mac. I swear... Some connects work fine with "Android File Transfer" and some do not. I used my PS4 controller charger and it worked fine. I'll post pictures soon.
Anyway, I couldn't figure out where the hell the connection/fuse/wire was for the LED ILLUMINATION PACKAGE that came with the Evo X. So i just used a on and off switch and add a fuse and wired 5 12" LED lights with a 3AMP fuse. It worked perfectly fine. Actually no bullshi*.. I mistakenly left my LED's on because i was showing some friends late light friday and then i noticed Tuesday that the lights were left on in my car! Thankfully their was no harm or fire. Also i must add... THE BATTERY DID NOT DIE. 5 12" LED lights were left on for 3 1/2 days and the battery still lives surprised me extremely.
If anyone found out where Mitsubishi wired their LED foot well lights please let me know. I'm trying to get my door LEDs to turn on once i hit the unlock button on my remote.
Anyway, I couldn't figure out where the hell the connection/fuse/wire was for the LED ILLUMINATION PACKAGE that came with the Evo X. So i just used a on and off switch and add a fuse and wired 5 12" LED lights with a 3AMP fuse. It worked perfectly fine. Actually no bullshi*.. I mistakenly left my LED's on because i was showing some friends late light friday and then i noticed Tuesday that the lights were left on in my car! Thankfully their was no harm or fire. Also i must add... THE BATTERY DID NOT DIE. 5 12" LED lights were left on for 3 1/2 days and the battery still lives surprised me extremely.
If anyone found out where Mitsubishi wired their LED foot well lights please let me know. I'm trying to get my door LEDs to turn on once i hit the unlock button on my remote.
I just ordered the OEM install kit, so I'll try to post the instructions if I remember. Maybe that will help you out.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Fresno, CA
So... a quick update. I figured this out. I attached 4 24" LED stripes to all my doors and 1 6" stripe in the center console. I used a fuse circuit and ran it with the "optional" fuse slot in the interior cabin fuse box (located down left corner of steering wheel) and then ran a 2 AMP fuse with that "add a fuse circuit". Sp basically the 10amp fuse goes into the fuse slot closer to the prongs and the 2amp (or 3amp) goes into the other slot. Made sure all the wires were connected safely and correctly and worked like a charm. The blowing of the fuses that I was talking about earlier was caused by the wires getting chewed up by the doors when they were shutting. So I cut them and replaced them with thicker wires. Not the car looks beautiful with the lights on. Inside and outside when the doors open. Cool thing is, when your driving around and u flip the switch the inside interior of your car is very nice looking because of the LEDs under the door. Not visible outside of the vehicle.
I'm looking forward to checking it out!
