Power Question
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Power Question
So I have a full aftermarket setup and have been battling having my subs having very inconsistent volume levels for a while. I'm wondering if my stock battery is enough to keep up with what I have:
Alpine W927HD head unit
Alpine PDX-F4 100w x 4 powering Alpine Type-R components
Alpine PDX-M12 1200w x 1 powering 2 Alpine Type-R 10" woofers.
The 100w amp and components don't ever seem to fade at all, however the subs are terribly inconsistent. Really all I'm wondering is if anyone here has had experience with a similar-sized audio system running off a X stock battery and if I should either upgrade the battery, add a capacitor...both maybe?
Thanks in advance.
Alpine W927HD head unit
Alpine PDX-F4 100w x 4 powering Alpine Type-R components
Alpine PDX-M12 1200w x 1 powering 2 Alpine Type-R 10" woofers.
The 100w amp and components don't ever seem to fade at all, however the subs are terribly inconsistent. Really all I'm wondering is if anyone here has had experience with a similar-sized audio system running off a X stock battery and if I should either upgrade the battery, add a capacitor...both maybe?
Thanks in advance.
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 252
Likes: 2
From: Sumner, wa
OK, so the best way to approach this problem is to figure out how much amperage your pulling over the stock audio setup.
alpine pdx f4 = 60 amps
apline pdx m12 = 100 amps
So with both amps thats a current draw of 160 amps. Thats a lot of power.
The stock alternator on the X only produces 130 amps. Thats for the whole car.
The problem that your having is that there is not enough electrical current being generated. A high output alternator is really your only FIX to this problem.
Capacitors are a bad idea. While they do provide a momentary boost of power for your system when current draw is high, once discharged, they need to recharged to be of any use, and that just puts another load on your already overloaded electrical system.
The stock battery is not your problem here, however it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an yellow top optima. It has a higher charge capacity, and will live a lot longer under the heavy power demands.
Hope this helps
alpine pdx f4 = 60 amps
apline pdx m12 = 100 amps
So with both amps thats a current draw of 160 amps. Thats a lot of power.
The stock alternator on the X only produces 130 amps. Thats for the whole car.
The problem that your having is that there is not enough electrical current being generated. A high output alternator is really your only FIX to this problem.
Capacitors are a bad idea. While they do provide a momentary boost of power for your system when current draw is high, once discharged, they need to recharged to be of any use, and that just puts another load on your already overloaded electrical system.
The stock battery is not your problem here, however it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an yellow top optima. It has a higher charge capacity, and will live a lot longer under the heavy power demands.
Hope this helps
Last edited by jakeleclair2000; Sep 5, 2014 at 11:51 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
OK, so the best way to approach this problem is to figure out how much amperage your pulling over the stock audio setup.
alpine pdx f4 = 60 amps
apline pdx m12 = 100 amps
So with both amps thats a current draw of 160 amps. Thats a lot of power.
The stock alternator on the X only produces 130 amps. Thats for the whole car.
The problem that your having is that there is not enough electrical current being generated. A high output alternator is really your only FIX to this problem.
Capacitors are a bad idea. While they do provide a momentary boost of power for your system when current draw is high, once discharged, they need to recharged to be of any use, and that just puts another load on your already overloaded electrical system.
The stock battery is not your problem here, however it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an yellow top optima. It has a higher charge capacity, and will live a lot longer under the heavy power demands.
Hope this helps
alpine pdx f4 = 60 amps
apline pdx m12 = 100 amps
So with both amps thats a current draw of 160 amps. Thats a lot of power.
The stock alternator on the X only produces 130 amps. Thats for the whole car.
The problem that your having is that there is not enough electrical current being generated. A high output alternator is really your only FIX to this problem.
Capacitors are a bad idea. While they do provide a momentary boost of power for your system when current draw is high, once discharged, they need to recharged to be of any use, and that just puts another load on your already overloaded electrical system.
The stock battery is not your problem here, however it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an yellow top optima. It has a higher charge capacity, and will live a lot longer under the heavy power demands.
Hope this helps
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Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 252
Likes: 2
From: Sumner, wa
THE BIG 3
1. Battery Ground to Chassis Ground
2. Engine ground to Chassis Ground
3. Alternator + to Battery +
A few things to keep in mind
1. Do not pull the stock wires. Run the new wire WITH the stock.
2. Always use high quality OFC (oxygen free copper) wire. DO NOT USE CCA!
3. Always use high quality connections. I prefer solder & heatshrink. Crimp-on and screw-down type terminals can become loose with extended periods of vibration and heat cycling.
3.1. Use high temp flexible plastic conduit to cover all added wires. This will help keep the wire safe from cuts/nicks and helps it blend in with the factory wiring.
4. Always use AT LEAST true 4 gauge wire. For longer runs, say from the alternator to the battery in the X, 2 gauge would probably be more appropriate given current drop over distance.
5. Double check everything. Then drive for a day or two and check it again. Then check it everytime you change your oil after that. It may seem excessive, but having a 150amp capable wire coming loose under the hood is a bad day.
1. Battery Ground to Chassis Ground
2. Engine ground to Chassis Ground
3. Alternator + to Battery +
A few things to keep in mind
1. Do not pull the stock wires. Run the new wire WITH the stock.
2. Always use high quality OFC (oxygen free copper) wire. DO NOT USE CCA!
3. Always use high quality connections. I prefer solder & heatshrink. Crimp-on and screw-down type terminals can become loose with extended periods of vibration and heat cycling.
3.1. Use high temp flexible plastic conduit to cover all added wires. This will help keep the wire safe from cuts/nicks and helps it blend in with the factory wiring.
4. Always use AT LEAST true 4 gauge wire. For longer runs, say from the alternator to the battery in the X, 2 gauge would probably be more appropriate given current drop over distance.
5. Double check everything. Then drive for a day or two and check it again. Then check it everytime you change your oil after that. It may seem excessive, but having a 150amp capable wire coming loose under the hood is a bad day.
Last edited by jakeleclair2000; Sep 15, 2014 at 03:10 PM.
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