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Removing Pill

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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:54 AM
  #1  
dek0026's Avatar
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Removing Pill

I read Cobb's instructions for removing one of the boost pills but what isn't clear is if I am to remove the entire line or just one end.

Anybody who have done this please chime in.

I don't want to do anything stupid and end of with a leak or worse.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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take out the line with boost pill.
remove pill from line.
re-install line without pill.
congrats
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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thanks. i interpret that as taking out the entire line. i guess there wouldn't be any other way to push the pill out.

thanks again.

/thread unless this is terrible advice.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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i did it and now boost to 26 tapering to 18-19 at redline
and you use a tiny allen wrench to push the pill out
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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I looked at the stage 1 maps and the WGDC is NOT maxxed out. So why does Cobb tell you to remove the pill on stage 2 maps when there is plenty of WGDC left? You can simply add WGDC on stage 2 maps and achieve the desired 26-19 psi boost w/o removing the pill. This is very odd.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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I just removed mine and was wondering if anyone is running cobb maps with the boost pill removed and the mod where you adjust the stock wastegate actuator to increase max pressure?
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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it doesn't increase max pressure, but i am running 1.5 turns in
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nj1266
I looked at the stage 1 maps and the WGDC is NOT maxxed out. So why does Cobb tell you to remove the pill on stage 2 maps when there is plenty of WGDC left? You can simply add WGDC on stage 2 maps and achieve the desired 26-19 psi boost w/o removing the pill. This is very odd.
These are 'off the shelf' maps and every car is different and every location is different. I run stage 2 with mine with the pill in or otherwise it overboosts and freaks the ecu out.

As long as you are hitting your boost targets it's good to go, how you get there doesn't really matter.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nj1266
I looked at the stage 1 maps and the WGDC is NOT maxxed out. So why does Cobb tell you to remove the pill on stage 2 maps when there is plenty of WGDC left? You can simply add WGDC on stage 2 maps and achieve the desired 26-19 psi boost w/o removing the pill. This is very odd.
I agree with you. I took out the pill and loaded the stage 2 map in and I was peaking at 28.5psi in 4th and I had spikes of 29psi if I ran through the gears. I put the pill back in without modifying the maps and hit the correct 25-26psi boost targets. As was said, results of using an off the shelf map.

Last edited by ScottSpeed21; Aug 9, 2009 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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i run with the pill still in as well
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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It should be noted that we have seen differences in teh boost control systems on these cars. Some need the restrictor pill modification done, some don't. If you are hitting targets there is no need to do the pill mod. If you aren't, then pulling the pill will help you hit your targets. It's best to start with the pill in and go from there.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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hey cobb is it ok to runn without the pill on stock tune?
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Why remove the pill when on your stage 2 93 octane map the WGDC coarse is only set at 71% from 5000 to redline and the WGDC fine is only set at 75% from 2500 to redline @ WOT?

The boost can be increased by simply upping the WGDC to 100% on the coarse setting from 5000 rpm to redline. On the fine setting the boost can be increased by setting the WGDC at 100% when the throttle is at 70/80% from 2500 to redline.

There simply no reason to remove the pill when the WGDC tables are NOT maxxed out. That is the case with all your stage 2 maps.

Basically, maxxing out the tables in the proper rpm/throttle range will give you the desired boost w/o removing the pill. So why do it?

I am just trying to understand why it is done that way by Cobb.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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well i lost my pill and am flashing back to stock and just wann know
also i just looked at one of my logs on stage 2
and my wgdc fine is at 100% at WOT
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nj1266
Why remove the pill when on your stage 2 93 octane map the WGDC coarse is only set at 71% from 5000 to redline and the WGDC fine is only set at 75% from 2500 to redline @ WOT? Just because cars you tune in CA run like that doesn't mean the rest of the nation does.

The boost can be increased by simply upping the WGDC to 100% on the coarse setting from 5000 rpm to redline. On the fine setting the boost can be increased by setting the WGDC at 100% when the throttle is at 70/80% from 2500 to redline.Again same thing, Evo X from around the nation are not exactly like Evo X's you have messed with in CA. Plus IIRC the 91 CA maps run lower boost tables to keep knock under control, since the gas that you have out there is similar to 'owl ****'.

There simply no reason to remove the pill when the WGDC tables are NOT maxxed out. That is the case with all your stage 2 maps.

Basically, maxxing out the tables in the proper rpm/throttle range will give you the desired boost w/o removing the pill. So why do it?To wrap this up, all cars are not created equal.

I am just trying to understand why it is done that way by Cobb.
Originally Posted by COBB Tuning
It should be noted that we have seen differences in the boost control systems on these cars. Some need the restrictor pill modification done, some don't. If you are hitting targets there is no need to do the pill mod. If you aren't, then pulling the pill will help you hit your targets. It's best to start with the pill in and go from there.
This has been re-stated over and over again by numerous people.

Just about every Evo X is different. The maps that most people are using are 'off the shelf' maps that are made to fit a wide range of variables - from location to altitude to the cars themselves.

Think of it this way, a 'OTS' map is akin to a shotgun, cheap to buy and cheap to shoot, and it hits a lot of stuff in one shot, so don't expect anything precision.
A custom tune would be like a custom long range centerfire rifle - expensive to buy, and expensive to shoot. But you'll hit the center everytime.

People need to stop nitpicking the OTS maps, the MazdaSpeed6 and MazdaSpeed3 guys did the same ****, and to the point where the Cobb guys got pissed off. Get a custom tune if it bothers you that much.

And why are you bringing this up? Aren't you a big self-proclaimed 'tuner-for-hire'. This is stuff covered in Tuning 101 along with how to make your Access Port flash 'intake manifold danger' on the screen.
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