I lifted up the car to reverify placement of the wideband per the discussion above.. And it's too tight fit and hard to get to with tools (I have an LM1 which I'm not planning on mounting permanently). I stuck a deep 17mm deep socket where I painted the dot below and and it's awfully close to the heatshield, and with the wire sticking out of top of the wideband - will most likely cause it stress and problems.





I believe the other side is better just like the other downpipes (pictured below) Much easier to get to and it's like the grand canyon on that side space wise.

 

yeah it is a bit of a pain...

there was some reason why I didn't put it on your second dot...

give it a go

just make sure it clears the drive shaft

 

What are you using to clean the red paint off the dp each time?

 

Red paint? lol - photoshop?

 

(was a bit of a joke/comic relief)

sorry...haha

If i ever find some e85 here in NoVA, i'll change my license plate to korny

 

 

cool

 

Last pic, I promise - lol. There's plently of space all around in that location (clears the propeller shaft, which is 6 inches higher). I followed tephra's advise and unplugged the front o2 sensor from the cabin (grommet) was much easier to remove it that way than trying to monkey with the sensor while the downpipe is still attached. Those sensor's aren't cheap so it might be wise not to stuff it up (learned that from tephra). Anti-Sieze is your friend.

 

I have the Perrin one piece dp/hfc and it doesn't have a bung. I'll be removing mine soon and having one welded on.

 

Looks like it has two bungs in it already for the stock sensors.. Should have no problem putting a wideband bung at the 3' oclock position run under the front bung (just like the AMS widemouth and the T1R v2 downpipes). Not really sure why perrin decided to make a downpipe + high flow cat considering the stock downpipe is already 2.75" ID (it's also nice that the stock downpipe is covered with heat shielding). Reading about, it's the o2 housing section that's restrictive (which is what the AMS, and the T1R downpipes fix). They should have made just a high flow cat section instead w/ a wideband O2 bung before the HFC, and one after the HFC (should have plenty of space to stick an o2 bung after the flange as their high flow cat is shorter in length).

 

^ actually one bung is for the upper (pre) and the lower (post) cat on the Perrin. No wideband bungs. I'm gonna consider changing my downpipe for the AMS when i eventually go bigger turbo

 

Yep, that's why you should get a bung welded at the 3 o'clock position under the first o2 bung (before cat).

 

Arent Wideband sensors supposed to be mounted at at least a 10 degree angle with the horizontal so that no liquids can settle in the sensor housing/sensor?

 

per the docs, it's okay to mount them between vertically, up to 45 degree angle. Most of the downpipes that you see with a wideband bung mounted on them at the 45 degree angle. I guess you can mount them at an angle less than that but there's a drive shaft above.

Mine is mounted at a 45 degree angle.

 

Hey, tackled this over the weekend along with wiring up my serial cable for logging. However, after installation I started the car up, and noticed immediately something was not right.

RPM's began bouncing from 750-1700 and A/FR were also bouning from 14ish-up to-16.

I immediately turned the car off, unpluged the sensor and everything was normal again.

Only thing that makes sense to me is the wideband is somehow interfering with the upstream o2 sensor due to how close it is. From my research this makes sense since the up o2 adjusts STFT, right?

Any ideas? I welded my bung in almost the exact same location as above. Really need to get this taken care of.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated.