I've been doing nothing but reading threads on tuning for the past few days while I waited for my cable and I've learned quite a bit, and got more confused about other things. I don't think I'm comfortable starting a map from scratch just yet, but I noticed that there are some maps out there that people recommended as a starting point for certain situations like in this thread:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-giveaway.html

Are there any maps out there that someone would recommend as a starting point if you have ONLY a K&N cone filter? I'm getting terrible gas mileage even when I baby the thing and I have no tuners really in my area. I just want a safe tune that will yield a bit more HP and definitely focuses on better gas mileage. I'm willing to sacrifice some mileage for a bit more HP if it is safe, but from what I've read, it is easy to get both HP and use less gas since they were tuned like garbage out of the factory. Any helpful tips or pointing in the right direction would be appreciated.

Also, are there any people in NH or Mass that could possibly help me out in the future?

 

Man I started out using Gunzo 91oct map. Its a great starter map. its not some full tune people think it is but man saves a lot of time. I can't post HTML but they are on evoxforums website under tuning open port pm your E-mail I can send you some links on better gas mileage and tuning. This forums got a lot under 1-9 section "how to tune an evo" helps a lot. but x's are not the same as them but does help understand how-to.

 

YA, I read that and it helped. It would probably help more if I was looking at my car's ECU map while I was reading it, but I'm just not confident enough to tweak a few things then go out and drive. It would probably make more sense for me to just start with a tune that I know works and save both the stock map and the new one, then go ahead and start tuning/logging from there. Some of our vendors have ecu maps that they send you for prices like $200-400 when you send them your map, but don't you still have to log these and change them based on your car, or do they usually make them perfect for your setup?

 

I don't know on E-tunes but man Ecuflash really is not that hard. JUST READ AND READ. Yeah once you got some maps in front of you help a lot. You can use Map tracer in Evoscan (logging software) and it will show you what load cell your hitting if you got a WB (wideband) AFRS where at and everything. In just the log shows you this stuff to. I only have been doing this since end july of this year man and I learned a sh*t load. Just make sure you do SMALL changes and see where your at. Logging shows you the world on your car. LOG LOG LOG. I have more than 100 log's of stuff I did because did not want to hurt anything. You can use VDR help you to see if what your doing is helping you or hurting you (its 100% right but still fun use) make sure you get Mode23 on your ecuflash so you can log right. Wideband is a MUST to have too! I find it very fun tuning my car but im not all way right in head lol. Good luck man!

 

I don't have a WB yet but I plan on getting one maybe after winter, possibly sooner. I know that it is very important to tune with one, but doesn't the ECU program tell you the knock count and AFR?

 

knock; yes
a/f; no
you can log target a/f or what ever its called but it is in no way your real af.
stock o2 sensors are narrow band and could never allow you to read true af.

 

Do I have to weld a new bung to the DP for the WB, or just take the current O2 sensor out from the DP? I know I could find this in a search, but I'm at work and I'm just looking for the quick answer.

Also, on the recend post about tuning the cruising RPM for better gas mileage, is that a safe tune to just try and not have to worry about any consequences, or could it potentially be harmful to the engine? I'm thinking of starting with that at least for the winter so I can save some gas and worry about horsepower next spring.

 

Well do you have a test pipe? If so there is thread about delete the o2 for it and using the bung. Man I got my WB off Ebay for like $180 LC-1 with gauge. Super easy to install and if you do have to put a bung in yes do it on your DP by your other o2 sensor in the front of the cat. 9o'clock or 3 o'clock mine is at 9 o'clock. But man WB is a must I would not tune anything or flash anything with out it.

Looking for MPG here this link talks about adding timing to area to make you hit lower cell better MPG. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ng-cruise.html

I know your at work so am I. But the looking for all this stuff man comes with a lot learning from this threads. I would give some good time on reading this threads and finding and learn a lot of things. But when you get puzzled people here are here to help. They help me butt load.

 

IIRC that is for using the rear o2 sensor reading from the ecu to log, the wideband should still go in your down pipe to read correctly.if this is not the case please let me know! i have a new down pipe i have to get a bung welded in

 

The wideband can read just fine in the test pipe, it doesn't have to be in your downpipe. I've got a bung welded in the front side of my test pipe for my wideband and still use my rear o2 like normal

 

I would recomend Cobb APP and use their ATR (Access Tuner Race) software. It would give you a variety of plug and play maps, plus allow you to actually see their various stage maps, as well as a "stock" map, compare what the differences are. It gives you the ability to carry several different maps basically in your glove box, and the time to flash between them is about 1.5 minutes.