free power for 2007-2009 evo x's
Jun 4, 2010, 02:55 PM
#32
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Mostly correct... however you will notice when you start to flash you have a list of check-sums and yes / no. Only blocks that need to be flashed (because they have changed) are flashed. The other blocks are not flashed because there are a limited amount of write cycles on the storage medium.
The type of memory used requires that you clear a whole block, then write back what you want (IE set to all 0, then change what needs to be 1). That is why you can't just write 1 small change (for instance if you just change your injector scaling).
The type of memory used requires that you clear a whole block, then write back what you want (IE set to all 0, then change what needs to be 1). That is why you can't just write 1 small change (for instance if you just change your injector scaling).
When we read the ROM, we read the whole thing, which includes Software and Tables. The tables are actually embedded in the software, just like any program you execute on your computer.
Only the changed blocks are written to save time. Nobody wants to wait 10 times longer if only 1 block needs to be written.
When you erase a flash chip, it makes all the bits 1's. You can turn any 1 off to a 0, but never a 0 back to a 1 without erasing. (This allows for some creative multi-writes without erasing.)
Jun 7, 2010, 02:46 PM
#33
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Hey guys, here's the direct comparison I've promised you between ROM 52680015 and 52680022.
15
22
As you can see, there's some difference only in the AFR, that is a little leaner in the 4500-6500 rpm range. This is in line with the dyno comparison done by HB Speed, we can suppose that the leaner (and smoother) AFR can give some more power. Honestly, only using VDR I can see only 6-7 WHP more, but I don't know if it's real more power or just an aproximation (remember that VDR extimates power/torque basing only on rpm).
The logs (fortunately) are very repeatable.
Ok, I think that's almost all about stock ROMs...
Next w.e. I'll start to tune it (light tuning); my first idea was to start just leaning it a little (12.5 at spool, 11.5 at peak boost, 11 at top end) but now I've good logs of stock behaviour and I want to play also with boost: so I will start with boost since this changes the load cells you hit.
This are the steps I want to follow:
- disable boost correction
- increase passive WGDC (reactive is already at 100% in WOT, I will use it just to smooth) to obtain some more boost: just 2 psi for now, trying to smooth it as much as possible in the 4500-6500 rpm range, where the stock boost tuning is very swinging)
- check the load cells I hit with the new WGDC and change the target load accordingly
- re-enable boost correction
- check and adjust AFR
- check and adjust timing
Ok sorry, this maybe is OT but since I've posted here the stock logs, I will post you also my "stage 1" log...
Bye
Stefano
15
22
As you can see, there's some difference only in the AFR, that is a little leaner in the 4500-6500 rpm range. This is in line with the dyno comparison done by HB Speed, we can suppose that the leaner (and smoother) AFR can give some more power. Honestly, only using VDR I can see only 6-7 WHP more, but I don't know if it's real more power or just an aproximation (remember that VDR extimates power/torque basing only on rpm).
The logs (fortunately) are very repeatable.
Ok, I think that's almost all about stock ROMs...
Next w.e. I'll start to tune it (light tuning); my first idea was to start just leaning it a little (12.5 at spool, 11.5 at peak boost, 11 at top end) but now I've good logs of stock behaviour and I want to play also with boost: so I will start with boost since this changes the load cells you hit.
This are the steps I want to follow:
- disable boost correction
- increase passive WGDC (reactive is already at 100% in WOT, I will use it just to smooth) to obtain some more boost: just 2 psi for now, trying to smooth it as much as possible in the 4500-6500 rpm range, where the stock boost tuning is very swinging)
- check the load cells I hit with the new WGDC and change the target load accordingly
- re-enable boost correction
- check and adjust AFR
- check and adjust timing
Ok sorry, this maybe is OT but since I've posted here the stock logs, I will post you also my "stage 1" log...
Bye
Stefano
Last edited by therocket; Jun 7, 2010 at 02:49 PM.
Jun 8, 2010, 07:31 PM
#35
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Jun 9, 2010, 11:16 AM
#37
TSB SC-09-002- CUSTOMER STATES POWER BAND WEAK REFLASH PER TSB SC-09-002 REFLASH PCM PER BULLETIN
i went to have some recalls and a warranty item fixed. while there, the service manager mentioned the new reflash. he said it would give the car more power. it definitely did. it is a very noticeable improvement from the original flash. i would say the new refalsh was very similar to when i flashed cobb stage 1. i have been reading how the 2010's are making more power than the previous year x's. from what i read, people are writing about the "lean spool" being enabled and responsible for this gain. this reflash should make any factory flashed car more powerful and its free.
i went to have some recalls and a warranty item fixed. while there, the service manager mentioned the new reflash. he said it would give the car more power. it definitely did. it is a very noticeable improvement from the original flash. i would say the new refalsh was very similar to when i flashed cobb stage 1. i have been reading how the 2010's are making more power than the previous year x's. from what i read, people are writing about the "lean spool" being enabled and responsible for this gain. this reflash should make any factory flashed car more powerful and its free.
Jun 9, 2010, 01:17 PM
#38
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no, it worked for my car. the car was noticeably stronger. hb speed has thread that has dyno results from the 15 rom and the 22 rom. teh 22 has a smoother curve with gains across the whole curve. it was funny when the service manager said it. i though it was bs, but then i drove the car.
Jun 9, 2010, 04:35 PM
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the tsb thing is not very clear system looking from the outside in. they probably have a number of changes in any one tsb that accumulates the longer a car goes without being serviced. if you go thru the thread, it has all the info. the same tsb that is being called the cold weather awd tsb is the one that upgrades the map.
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