I have a similar problem, but I'm not sure if it's the same. Here goes

At the track, my coolant temps are usually ~80*C after my cool down lap when I get to the pits. Once I go to start the car up again, it'll fire right up first try every time, BUT my AFR at idle will be high 12's to high 13's. It's usually around stoich.

This causes the car to stutter while idling and makes the idle sporadic, hopping between 500 and 1500rpm. Sometimes throws a Too Rich CEL. This has happened at least three times in the past few months, and typically clears out after a couple hours. It's always happened in the last couple of sessions of the day when the ambient temps are highest. However, when not ideling, the car seems to run fine. When this happens, I usually let it cool down as long as possible hoping it goes away, but I have no idea why it's happening or how to combat it.

At first I thought that running WOT on the long straights might have gunked up my O2 sensors with unburnt fuel, and it might just take a while to clear out. Someone mentioned adjusting the cranking enrichment tables, which I thought was just for problems cranking, and mostly in the cold. This thread indicates otherwise.

I'm on the stock injectors & stock turbo with basic breathing boltons running about 25psi. Would adjusting high temp cranking enrichment help in my case, does it only apply when the starter is active? Any other ideas?

 

David or anyone else have the Cranking Enrichment IPW adder values for an Evo 9 with the ID1000 injectors? I've had the warm start problem for a long time...it's really getting annoying down here in south FL. Thanks

 

evo 9 with same issues on id1000ccs, not matter how the IPW crank table is massaged... leaking ID1000ccs or slow response from them are giving an AEM series 1 impression on the stock ECU

Injector clinic might be the way to go..

 

I second this. stock motor 2011 evo mr.

However... i believe for mine this is from a "Cold" start.. occationaly i will try to start the car.. cranks 3-4 times i stop.. wait a second then try again.. wait a second.. then i tap the gas a couple times and try again .. usually after i tap the gas it will start.. i really dont know if taping the gas even does anything.. since it's not a carburated engine.. either way that 3rd or sometimes 4th time trying to start.. ends up starting the engine.. i haven't been stranded yet.. but dam my old 2003 Hyundai would crank once or twice and would start even if it was -50C.. Not even kidding.. it was -52C few winters back with the wind chill factor in. started up no prob not even pluged in. the trans felt like a stick in cold molasses but still started.

 

Problem solved!

Switched from ID 1000 to FIC 1100 cc,

Never ever had a starting issue again on all weathers

cheers

DJ

 

I am also dealing with this, I am also having issues no matter how I massage the IPW and IPW Adder tables...

 

stock IPW, IPW adders values and NOT a single issue with FIC1100 top feed high impendance..

ID1000 ccs on this particular application and u are asking for troubles..

 

I contacted injector dynamics about my warm start problems and they asked me to send them in for free testing... after testing they found my set did leak very slightly and they offered to replace them for free. I should have them back in the car in a week or so and will post my findings.

 

Thanks for the great info. Should be a sticky ftw

 

Thanks for the information! I know this is an old post, but after this 105deg weather in Indiana this summer, I was getting tired of my car not starting after parking it for 30-60 min.