05 Lancer Ralliart Cold Air Intake Issues?
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From: WV
05 Lancer Ralliart Cold Air Intake Issues?
What's up everyone, this is my first post so please bare with me. I'm not a mechanic and I don't pretend to be. I'm fairly decent at solving problems when it comes to about anything just by studying and using some common sense. I guess this issue I'm having is more like trial and error. I don't want to put too much into the car $$ wise.
Background story:
So, I bought an 05 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart about a month ago. I was under the impression the car was in pretty good shape before I went to look at it. Instead I was taken around the car and shown the good, the bad, & the ugly. Most of which was not in the description from his ad. The trunk wouldn't shut...whoopie, little tricks to pop the hood and access the gas cap....okay no problem. Then he tries starting the car. Apparently it hadn't ran for a couple months or so and I was told he just got it road legal not long ago. I'm assuming it was a race rod at one point due to the amount of fuses in the center console. The car wouldn't start and stay running at idle until it started to warm up some. Typical of some hot rods I thought. He said he hasn't had the cold air intake hooked up because it would stall. Without the cold air intake hooked up it will only drive at a max of 4000 rpm. It acts like a governer keeps it from going above 4000 rpms. When it gets to that point it sounds like some of the drift cars as they're drifting and maintaining rpms.
I decided I wanted to hook up the cold air intake and see what happens. I hooked it up and took it down the road. Well it has power and is able to go full throttle with that hooked up but only for about a half mile and then it drops down to idle regardless of how you press the gas pedal. You have to pull off the road, turn the car off, unhook the electrical portion of the cold air intake, and then start the car again before you can move again. I am unsure how to fix this but I have done a few things to hopefully help but nothing has kept it from shutting down to idle with the cold air intake hooked up. I have replaced the filter on the cold air intake, shortened up the cold air intake to keep it from flopping around since the hold wasn't strong enough with the current set up. I took the throttle body off and noticed it had significant deposits. I cleaned it up & reinstalled. I reset the ECU after everything was hooked back up and even let it idle for about 20 minutes. The idle sounded great and I took it for a spin. Half mile later, I was slowed down to idle. Is there some type of sensor or something that needs removed/replaced? I'm not sure what to look for when it comes to that and I'm kinda afraid to pull the wrong things. Any help here would be greatly appreciate.
Background story:
So, I bought an 05 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart about a month ago. I was under the impression the car was in pretty good shape before I went to look at it. Instead I was taken around the car and shown the good, the bad, & the ugly. Most of which was not in the description from his ad. The trunk wouldn't shut...whoopie, little tricks to pop the hood and access the gas cap....okay no problem. Then he tries starting the car. Apparently it hadn't ran for a couple months or so and I was told he just got it road legal not long ago. I'm assuming it was a race rod at one point due to the amount of fuses in the center console. The car wouldn't start and stay running at idle until it started to warm up some. Typical of some hot rods I thought. He said he hasn't had the cold air intake hooked up because it would stall. Without the cold air intake hooked up it will only drive at a max of 4000 rpm. It acts like a governer keeps it from going above 4000 rpms. When it gets to that point it sounds like some of the drift cars as they're drifting and maintaining rpms.
I decided I wanted to hook up the cold air intake and see what happens. I hooked it up and took it down the road. Well it has power and is able to go full throttle with that hooked up but only for about a half mile and then it drops down to idle regardless of how you press the gas pedal. You have to pull off the road, turn the car off, unhook the electrical portion of the cold air intake, and then start the car again before you can move again. I am unsure how to fix this but I have done a few things to hopefully help but nothing has kept it from shutting down to idle with the cold air intake hooked up. I have replaced the filter on the cold air intake, shortened up the cold air intake to keep it from flopping around since the hold wasn't strong enough with the current set up. I took the throttle body off and noticed it had significant deposits. I cleaned it up & reinstalled. I reset the ECU after everything was hooked back up and even let it idle for about 20 minutes. The idle sounded great and I took it for a spin. Half mile later, I was slowed down to idle. Is there some type of sensor or something that needs removed/replaced? I'm not sure what to look for when it comes to that and I'm kinda afraid to pull the wrong things. Any help here would be greatly appreciate.
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