Hey guys,

Most probably know that I have continuously criticized the clutch action in the new X. I have finally taken the car to my local dealer and they didn't even test drive it. They stated that this is the third X with the same symptoms:

Draging clutch: You can feel this by having the car on a flat surface, letting it idle with your foot off the clutch pedal. Then quickly push in the clutch pedal and put the shifter into first...the car will lurch forward 1-2", you can also hear a clunk as the drivetrain is enagaged. I also tested this on a buddies X with 400 miles on it.

Crunchy gear selection of 2nd and 3rd.

The technician contacted the Mitsu tech line and was on the phone for about 30mins, when he came out I asked what they thought. He stated, I am ordering you a new Pressure plate/clutch disc, and flywheel.

I immediately asked, what are they sending, the same model or has it been revised in some way? He stated that it is the same model clutch with no revision.

So here is my question, I am scheduled to have this work done on the car, It has 3200 miles on her, should I allow this work to take place knowing that the same clutch will most likely has the same results?

 

My perspective is this:

If the shop will do the work under warranty using aftermarket parts AND not void your warranty on everything else SAVE the aftermarket clutch; pay for an ACT kit with your own money and also do a lightweight flywheel. Tell the dealer you will sign a notarized agreement to the effect of holding him harmless and never disclose to anyone that they entered into the agreement. I have had dealers actually cool enough to do this in the past. If so, be damn sure to abide by your word! The labour is what kills you in these swaps and heres a chance to get it done properly and free. The dealer can restock the parts and get compensated by Mitsu either way.

Dan Law
DERMS Racing

 

So you are saying NO if they are planning on putting in the same factory clutch but yes if they will put in an aftermarket one without voiding the warranty.

Hmm...didn't think of asking them that! I wonder

 

just have them put in the stock clutch. cause when it happens again, they will replace it again. if u have a aftermarket clutch put in, you will have warranty problems

 

Wow, you took that and ran with it huh?! You need a new clutch so 100% yes replace with OEM if that is all they will do; the alternative was just an option to get some quality work done for free.

Dan Law
DERMS Racing

 

My concern is that the car will be ripped apart to replace the clutch/flywheel with the same damn unit. My clutch and FW are not damaged. I believe it is a clutch design flaw, so putting in the same unit kind of defeats the purpose. I guess there is a possiblility that there was a bad batch of clutches from the factory though.

So would you guys let the dealer tear the car apart and replace the clutch/flywheel with the stock unit on a car with only 3200 miles?

I am concerned a bolt will be lost, a clamp won't be secured, something will get stripped...etc...etc..etc

 

the obvious answer is yes, have them replace it. this way it is noted in your service records that you were having an issue, and that they are fully admitting it is not from abuse, etc.

if you don't let them do the work, what are you going to do when you have 20k on your car and change your mind?

 

I agree, just a little nervous I guess, you know...strange man's hands all over my nice new car...what will he forget to tighten, or do?

Yeah, I took it there to get the issue into the service records to build my case...I never expected they would replace the clutch/FW that quickly. Great service actually.

 

If I were you i would just buy an aftermarket clutch cause the stock clutch is going to go out soon or later and i would never let the dealership do anything work on my car ever again. I had the mitsu dealership do my clutch and they didn't warranty it and did a bad job puttin my clutch in. All most all the bolt they took off they never tighten it. I was told by the shop when i took my car in to do my third clutch that i was lucky that that my tranny and clutch didn't fall apart cause who ever did my last clutch never tighten anything at all. I was really tick off almost called the dealership and b$#ch them off.

 

I guess I could double check the work myself later....really hope not to though!

 

^ or...that shop just told him that to "earn" a new customer.

I would have the work done. Find out who in their service bays goes to the mitsu training. We've found a guy here in Colorado Springs that goes to more training than anyone else at the dealer, and he does great work (did a short-block for us on the IX MR), so we request him. We also have a younger guy that drives an evo and does all his own work, so he's our other option. Just ask some questions, and deal directly with the service manager if you can. If they won't tell you who the best is, then ask who does more oil changes...

 

So is this definitely the cause of the crunchy 2nd and 3rd shifts? I can deal with premature wear on the clutch (provided that it won't happen on the exedy or act that I put in later), but I cannot deal with having transmisson damage because of this.

 

Not sure. I guess we can start a poll on testing whether or not your clutch is draging. I am not a clutch expert, but I believe when 1st is engaged from neutral while the car is idling, there should'nt be ANY forward movement if the clutch pedal is depressed.

 

Well first of all you are luck they they decided to cover the clutch. My dealer said that the clutch is not under warrenty they said even if it goes out after having the car for 2,000 miles on it. So i would see if they would put an ACT in because they probley will not replace it again.

 

Well, my notchiness is almost gone now once the car is warmed up, but it's notchy as hell when cold and probably always will. I tested this clutch thing you were talking about, and mine doesn't move at all. I mean, I can hear a slight clunk, but that's just the gear engaging and every stick car I've ever owned has done that. That's pretty normal I think. Perhaps after your repeated launches your clutch/flywheel is warped now and isn't fully disengaging. Daryl from ACT warned you that this could happen as well. Now I'm certainly not saying that this is definitely the cause, so take no offense as I am only thinking outloud. Either way, my guess is that te notchiness is not related to the clutch dragging, because this would make speed shifts worse than normal shifts, which is the opposite with the X. The car shifts smooth as butter when shifted quickly and more roughly when slowly. Hmmm, well let us know how the new clutch is. I hope it works out well for you. I would put the ACT in if I were you, because that's a pretty sure bet to eliminate this problem, and it'll last a hell of a lot longer than the POS that is in the car now. Just my .02