Well I recently bought the Ultimate racing DP and TP. I have to say the product does look very nicely made. I went with UR one cause I have been reading no one had a problem with them.

After installing both parts and making sure everything was nice and tight I turn the car on and you can hear the difference. Car now is a bit louder but has a deep rumble to it which I love. After letting it idle for about 10 mins and reving it up a bit I go for a ride and you feel the response right away. The car feels smoother to redline and sounds mean.

So after about 30 miles after the install I am going home and step on it and all of a sudden a check engine light comes on and the car sounds different and feels like S**t. So I take it easy and park it and wait till the next day to put it on the lift which I did to check if maybe a bolt came loose or something but everything was fine. Check to see if I had an exhaust leak but didn't notice anything. I disconnected to batter to reset and once I turned the car on the light was not on anymore. So I go for a drive and it doesn't feel right. The car is very sluggish and now when I stop at a light the idle sometimes is everywhere and car even wants to shutoff at times.

My question is, is there anyway that maybe I can check for an exhaust leak with a tool or something? Also what can be causing the problem I have now even though I don't have a check engine light?

 

Not nice to hear that, maybe UR can enlighten you on your problem.
I too have UR downpipe & high flow cat for about 3 weeks now & has not encounter any problem.

 

Check engine light is from the test pipe I bet. Not sure why it would run bad though.

 

Well the thing is I reset it and the light when away but the car still feels weird. When I first drove it after the install the car felt amazing but ever since the light came on the first time it doesn't feel right.

 

Boost leak? IC pipe came off?

 

Maybe try resetting the ECU, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect it.

 

limp mode?

 

The UR test pipe comes with a built in CEL fix. I beleive they claim that you will not get a P0420 (catalyst inefficiency) CEL. I had an UR test pipe on my VIII and never got one singe CEL.

As far as the car going in limp mode... It's impossible to know if that's the case. Your best bet is to get the exact DTC that the ECU threw. A large exhaust leak could be the culprit if you're leaking from the O2 housing to downpipe section, not allowing the front O2 sensor in the downpipe to do it's job. A large leak would fool the front O2 sensor to keep adding fuel. This of coures would only be an issue in closed loop operation.

 

I don't know why that would happen since I did not touch anything in that area, and I also have driven the car a lot harder then I did when the problem happen, but I guess I'll look at it anyway just to make sure.

Did that and the check engine light when away but the car feels very sluggish and now idles weird when I stop at a light.

I am not sure but isn't limp mode when the check engine light is on?

What I have read so far no one claims to have a cel which make me believe it might not be the actual product but maybe something wrong with the install or something else. I double checked everything and everything looks correct and tight. I checked to see if I can notice a leak somewhere but everything seems right.

Is there better way to check for a leak with maybe a certain tool?

Also is it possible to be in limp mode and not have the check engine light on?

How do I do this now if there is no check engine light on?


This was my first thought that was the problem but when I checked it looked fine. Is there a better way to check for a leak? Also lets say this was the problem and it triggered the check engine light, why after I reset the battery there isn't a light anymore but the car still feels sluggish?

 

Unfortunately once the CEL is gone, I do not know how to retreive it. As far a leak goes, it would have to be a pretty bad leak to cause major issues and you would definately smell it, hear it, and see it. The only way I know how to check is to crawl under the car and feel around and listen.

I second the notion of checking vacuum hoses and IC pipes. As far as the limp mode goes, I think it's safe to assume it's not an overboost issue because you have an ecutek tune. Most likely, the CEL will come back if the car still doesn't feel right. Then you can get the exact code.

What are you using for boost control?

 

I'm going to put it back on the lift tomorrow and check it out again and check the IC pipes to make sure.
The tune was done before the DP and TP were installed, as far as something to control boost I have nothing aftermarket.

 

I had the same thing happen to me after 500 miles of having the dp and tp on. The engine light came on and car ran like crap. I went out a day later and turned the car on and the engine light was gone and the car has run fine ever since.

 

I wonder why that was? I drove about 5 miles before the light came on, went home parked. The next day when I start the car the light is still on and car feels sluggish. Put it on the lift check everything, everything looks and sounds good, lower the car back down and reset the battery. Start the car and no light, go for a test drive car still feels like crap but no check engine light,

 

Disconnect the battery and leave it off for 10 minutes. While the battery is disconected disconnect the ECU harness and connect it back on. Just make sure you leave the battery disconected for at least 10 minutes.

Then try again.

 

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You most likely have a P1235 code.
Its not because of your exhaust, its because of boost pressure at partial throttle. Pull the code and see if that is what it is. The symptoms of this code are higher RPM at idle and a limp mode that will only allow the car to achieve 12psi at WOT if ECU boost is being used.

The exhaust is letting you achieve higher boost, thus the issue. If you see this is the code, get in touch with your EcuTeK tuner and have him reflash your ECU with the P1235 fix. You might also check your boost level and ensure that you aren't really seeing higher than 23psi. Once that is rectified, the car will run correctly.