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clutch master cylinder

Old Jul 20, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #16  
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From: Philly
Originally Posted by slonez
Ok guys, sorry to burst your bubbles.
I've been plaque by the master clutch cylinder problem the last few months.
My 2nd unit burst within 10 days after the 1st one broke. After the 3rd unit was installed, I baby the car until the AMS ring came & got it installed immediately. It was finally good until today that is (approx 1 month).
All of a sudden, my clutch pedal would not return after I depress to engage gear (exactly the same as when the master clutch broke) except that the cylinder did not break or leak. The brake fluid level is level is stable.
I had to tow my car to the workshop again (3rd time within the last few months for the same problem). Since this is Sunday, the mechanic are not working but initial diagnosis indicate an "internal leak".
I am really pissed. Sure the AMS ring prevented the cylinder from breaking but it is not the SOLUTION.
I am going to get my workshop modify a 9 cylinder to fit.
Those designer at Mitsu ought to be
Oh wow please guys tell me this isnt true, im fixing this problem real soon and I DO NOT HAVE THE MONEY to keep replacing this part, tell me there is a solution if it happened repeatedly to someone else
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:20 AM
  #17  
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My workshop has replaced the clutch cylinder with a E9 model. I did not get to see exactly what was done but I know for sure they route a braided hose for the brake fluid.
According to them, they have already perform this mod for a few X already. No problem so far.
The pedal feels higher, more positive.
I also notice the gears are easier to engage as well.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:31 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by slonez
My workshop has replaced the clutch cylinder with a E9 model. I did not get to see exactly what was done but I know for sure they route a braided hose for the brake fluid.
According to them, they have already perform this mod for a few X already. No problem so far.
The pedal feels higher, more positive.
I also notice the gears are easier to engage as well.
I wonder if they could sell this as a kit?
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:05 AM
  #19  
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So how much time and what is involved in installing the AMS reinforcement ring?

I'm thinking that I better get this installed BEFORE it fails or I will out of commission on my daily driver.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #20  
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From: Southeast USA
Originally Posted by Hiboost
So how much time and what is involved in installing the AMS reinforcement ring?

I'm thinking that I better get this installed BEFORE it fails or I will out of commission on my daily driver.
I haven't done it. I did look at the instructions, and I would assume 4-6 hours moving slowly. The whole clutch pedal assembly has to be removed, might as well do the SS clutch line as well.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
So how much time and what is involved in installing the AMS reinforcement ring?

I'm thinking that I better get this installed BEFORE it fails or I will out of commission on my daily driver.
Mine is JDM (RHD).
My workshop took about an hour to install the AMS ring including bleeding the brake fluid.
I don't know of anyone else having the same problem as I do but at least the ring prevent the master cylinder from breaking in 2.
It is no joke when the cylinder break, a loud bang & your clutch pedals on the floor. Imagine having to wait for the tow truck to tow the vehicle esp if you're located in the outskirt or interstate.
I strongly suggest anyone with the manual X to install the AMS ring or try the other solution cos it is going to happen sooner or later.

Last edited by slonez; Jul 21, 2009 at 08:40 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by slonez
Ok guys, sorry to burst your bubbles.
I've been plaque by the master clutch cylinder problem the last few months.
My 2nd unit burst within 10 days after the 1st one broke. After the 3rd unit was installed, I baby the car until the AMS ring came & got it installed immediately. It was finally good until today that is (approx 1 month).
All of a sudden, my clutch pedal would not return after I depress to engage gear (exactly the same as when the master clutch broke) except that the cylinder did not break or leak. The brake fluid level is level is stable.
I had to tow my car to the workshop again (3rd time within the last few months for the same problem). Since this is Sunday, the mechanic are not working but initial diagnosis indicate an "internal leak".
I am really pissed. Sure the AMS ring prevented the cylinder from breaking but it is not the SOLUTION.
I am going to get my workshop modify a 9 cylinder to fit.
Those designer at Mitsu ought to be

woa...
ok


go to the catalog of tilton i believe 'pre' ams cilinder ring...
when carrito's clutch had the same problem they replaced it w/ a tilton master cilinder, i believe it was the 76-Series Master Cylinder (but dont quote me on this)


you will need the cilinder a heim joint and obviously the time and tools to do it...


heres how it was done







theres your permanent solution
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 10:30 PM
  #23  
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From: Rochester, NY
I haven't done it. I did look at the instructions, and I would assume 4-6 hours moving slowly. The whole clutch pedal assembly has to be removed, might as well do the SS clutch line as well.
Originally Posted by slonez
Mine is JDM (RHD).
My workshop took about an hour to install the AMS ring including bleeding the brake fluid.
I don't know of anyone else having the same problem as I do but at least the ring prevent the master cylinder from breaking in 2.
It is no joke when the cylinder break, a loud bang & your clutch pedals on the floor. Imagine having to wait for the tow truck to tow the vehicle esp if you're located in the outskirt or interstate.
I strongly suggest anyone with the manual X to install the AMS ring or try the other solution cos it is going to happen sooner or later.
Thanks guys, I'll look into buying that from AMS shortly then. Are there any vendors selling a Stainless Steel braided clutch line yet? I have no idea what the specs are of the stock lines or length needed, hopefully someone has already figured it out.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 07:22 AM
  #24  
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From: Deeetroit
What modifications need to be done to install the EVO 9 MC? Other than the line obviously.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #25  
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From: Reading, PA
Originally Posted by Hiboost
Thanks guys, I'll look into buying that from AMS shortly then. Are there any vendors selling a Stainless Steel braided clutch line yet? I have no idea what the specs are of the stock lines or length needed, hopefully someone has already figured it out.
AMS has the stainless line out too. I will be doing both in a few weeks. AMS estimates it as a 3-4 hour job, maybe more if you are taking it slow or your first time doing it.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:14 PM
  #26  
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we actually have a package sale going on right now for our Reinforcement ring. SS clutch line, both in car and under the hood bushings for $174.95

Eric
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #27  
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From: Deeetroit
I just have heard of too many failures even with the reinforcement ring so I think I want to swap out the master cylinder itself. If I'm going to all the trouble of taking that all out I may as well swap it for something else. Anyone that has done a swap to an EVO 9 one please let us know what is required (apart from the line).
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 04:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by PR_Mivec
woa...
ok


go to the catalog of tilton i believe 'pre' ams cilinder ring...
when carrito's clutch had the same problem they replaced it w/ a tilton master cilinder, i believe it was the 76-Series Master Cylinder (but dont quote me on this)


you will need the cilinder a heim joint and obviously the time and tools to do it...


heres how it was done







theres your permanent solution
The best solution IMHO... But I am a little biased, ha ha ha
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 06:25 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by carrito.net
The best solution IMHO... But I am a little biased, ha ha ha
If it work well + durable, this would be it!
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by slonez
If it work well + durable, this would be it!

The first one, a larger pump was used and made the pedal a little stiffer than expected (althoug it still works flawlessly), but if an smaller diameter pump is used the pedal feel would be even better.

Plus:
  1. The pedal height is adjustable
  2. The pump is 100% rebuildable (if it ever fails, ha ha ha)
  3. Muchhhhh stronger than any other option

Last edited by Johnny Fargas; Jul 23, 2009 at 02:29 PM.
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