Does AMS have a setup like this? I mean didn't they use it for the top shop challenge? What was the word on the cosworth piece?

 

with a dry sump system, will it mean that oil change interval is going to be every 20K miles and you just add oil if the level is low in between(just like the porsche dry sump system)?

 

^^^^ Very good question. I am also curious about that. Would you still need to run thicker oil? since that it would stay cooler with a dry sump

 

any one working on this? I'd be interested!

 

I run a dry sump on my Honda, and I'll list the reasons for running it.

1. Horsepower. It takes us 7hp to turn the dry sump pump, but with the vacuum we are able to pull (14-16in) we get that back and then some. It is worth about 10hp extra in our application. We really have to work hard to seal the motor up in order to achieve this. If we do not spend the time to seal the motor, it pulls 7in and then starts sucking in air through the OEM seals and the oil cap.
2. We preheat the oil before running down the track. The dry sump makes it very easy to do this with a standard pad heater or coil threaded into the tank.
3. Being a methanol car, we change the 7 quarts of oil every 10 passes down the track. There is visible oil contamination and this is a naturally aspirated car. A turbo car running lots of cylinder pressure will see much more fuel in the oil regardless of the fuel.
4. Before startup, we take the belt off and prime the oil system and motor with heated oil.
5. Better oiling, but we really don't have a problem with OEM oil pumps. Bottom line, we run it for power.

The EVO X oil pump seems to be more than sufficient. There are obvious advantages to the dry sump system in that you can put the oil where you want it, and pull it from where you want to if you have enough gear pumps. In a road course car there could be advantages in having a divided pan like mine to keep oil in that cylinder under cornering, but I dont' see it being a huge power producing modification like it is on a naturally aspirated car or a low boost V8 motor.

With the big boost we have to run to make power on these little motors, you are going to pressurize the crank case. I have never seen one pull vacuum on big turbo cars running 30+psi, so most guys just run a huge catch can with some big vent lines and skip the $5000+ dry sump setup.

Here are pics of my 5 stage. You can see the simple mounting bracket, incoming and outgoing filters, filters on the pan, etc. You guys don't have to wait for someone to make a "kit"....just buy the **** and make it fit. Real simple.






There are also lots of different pumps out there. Gear pump, rotex pumps, steel, aluminum, etc. Some take more power to turn than others, but they cost less too.

 

There is a JUN baffled oil pan out there that may be good enough to control oil delivery to the engine while on a road course. I can see how the AMS Evo X would need a setup like this though as that car is no longer in this dimension.

 

any updates on how that went?

can it be used for daily drive cars (keeping their AC installed) but do alot of road racing at high Gs?

Is the oil cooler eliminated? or still used? any implications for that?

What would be the best systems on the market now besides?

Thanks!