vta=vent to air/atmospheric

I personally ran one for about a year before all the gunk started sticking the piston. Even had the car tuned last month w/ this bov on full vta, 50/50, and full recirc. Car threw codes left and right...because of this particular bov. Took the bov apart to clean up the gunk inside. Once I took it apart and examined the internals (piston, spring, delrin ring, etc..), I decided it's engineered like crap. I just don't see how this thing doesn't leak boost even working 100%.

I wouldn't recommend it. I went ahead and put the stock diverter valve back on with plenty of success. I'm running about 335hp/360ft-lb w/ absolutely no hiccups with the stock diverter valve.

 

Depends on how wild you want to go and what your budget is. I'd do hardpipes next. UICP.

 

yeah i was thinking that.. i was either looking at ams or nesei, any recommendations?

 

Run a catch can and u wont have that issue.

 

The stock diverter valve even with the oil blow-by won't gunk it up enough to stick the internals. On the other hand the piston based AP bov has issues. Why should I install a catch can when Mitsu didn't think it was neccessary to have one? I will eventually down the line to save my fmic from oil residue. However, I'll stick with the diverter valve for now since oil blow-by won't affect it's performance.

 

a catch can can help most any car.