Ceramic vs Carbon
I read that Carbonetics not actually poor carbon, but carbon-ceramic plate. It means that there will be no such problems as with usual carbon. Only you need 500 miles brake in period. What do you think guys? Whether it works on the EVO X?
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Yes they have EVO X application. You are right they are not a carbon carbon clutch but rather a carbon composite. I've used them on many cars and it is by far the best multi-plate clutch I have used.
According to ORC (another popular clutch manufature) the twin metal is good for street, drag racing, drifting, and circuit racing. The twin carbon is good for street and circuit racing.
The carbon is suppose to have the longest life but I've seen people burn up carbon clutches pretty quickly...... Carbon clutches take some time to warm up and if you don't let it warm up, it'll slip and cause some excess wear. I think that is why my friend fried his pretty quickly.
Here's the graph by ORC

just in case you don't read Japanese the graph reads Light Clutch, Carbon Clutch, Metal Clutch, & 1000F on the lateral column and Street, Drift, Circuit, and Drag on the horizontal column. Triangle meaning not so good, circle meaning good, and star meaning best.
Here's another graph by ORC

Left to right is the stock clutch, light clutch, carbon clutch, and metal clutch
The graph going clockwise starting from the 12 o'clock position is clutch slipping (riding the clutch), heat resistance, life, price, pedal pressure, & shift feeling.
According to these graphs, the metal clutch seems to be the "all round" clutch.
BTW, I'm running the Exedy Twin Metal and love it
The carbon is suppose to have the longest life but I've seen people burn up carbon clutches pretty quickly...... Carbon clutches take some time to warm up and if you don't let it warm up, it'll slip and cause some excess wear. I think that is why my friend fried his pretty quickly.
Here's the graph by ORC

just in case you don't read Japanese the graph reads Light Clutch, Carbon Clutch, Metal Clutch, & 1000F on the lateral column and Street, Drift, Circuit, and Drag on the horizontal column. Triangle meaning not so good, circle meaning good, and star meaning best.
Here's another graph by ORC

Left to right is the stock clutch, light clutch, carbon clutch, and metal clutch
The graph going clockwise starting from the 12 o'clock position is clutch slipping (riding the clutch), heat resistance, life, price, pedal pressure, & shift feeling.
According to these graphs, the metal clutch seems to be the "all round" clutch.
BTW, I'm running the Exedy Twin Metal and love it
SiC, seem to have any problems with the cylinder problem that some people were having? I know it's made of plastic, does it work well with the Exedy?
P.S. who the heck even sells the Exedy?
P.S. who the heck even sells the Exedy?
On a twin disc setup the pressure to hold the discs do not need to be as high as a single disc setup. That is why the pedal pressure is a lot lighter (barely harder than stock) and the master cylinders do not go out on them.
I don't think I have heard of anyone breaking a master cylinder with a twin disc setup. I have only heard of them going out with the ACT clutches. The most likely reason for this is because the ACT uses a single disc setup which requires more clamping force from the pressure plate. Since the pressure plate pressure is much higher, it makes the pedal a lot harder to push in too. This puts a lot stress on the clutch's hydraullic system and of course the weakest link will fail. In this case, it seems like the plastic master cylinder is the weakest link.
On a twin disc setup the pressure to hold the discs do not need to be as high as a single disc setup. That is why the pedal pressure is a lot lighter (barely harder than stock) and the master cylinders do not go out on them.
On a twin disc setup the pressure to hold the discs do not need to be as high as a single disc setup. That is why the pedal pressure is a lot lighter (barely harder than stock) and the master cylinders do not go out on them.
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