felibon

Hi everyone.
So yesturday i took off my stock intake box in the intantion to do the cone filter mod but the opening of the filter i got was too big, anyways. The first problem i encounter (and im sure every one has) was the the bolts on the MAF sensor kept spining and would not come off, so theres a gap between my MAF and the plastic piece that sandwishes the filter togather. So i put everything back how it should be and i fot got to plug in my MAF and the car idled at like 2k RPM. So i shut the car off, connected the MAF and disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light. But now my car has horrible idling. It jumps from like 900rpm to 500rpm and eventually to 0rpm and shuts off on its own. If the car was leakin from the MAF sensor and the plastic piece, will it couse the bad idle? what could i have touch that messed with my idle? The car runs good under normal driving. And one more thing. If i downshift from lets say 4th to 3rd and take my foot off the gas and let it go under its own power with out any gas, the RPMs lower to 1000 and it seams the car wants to shut off. Im sorry for the long story put i just want to let you guys know everything so you can help me, THANKS A LOT!!

►EvolutionX◄

iTrader: (2)

When I replaced my intake the bolts on the MAF backed right out...Sounds like you may have damaged your MAF sensor in the process. Put everything back together, take car to dealership, have them check the sensor, and make sure you have the updated flash.

UFO

iTrader: (7)

So, you have a check engine light on now? If so, what are the codes? Did you touch the MAF? When you say MAF bolts, you're not talking about the 2 torx screws that hold the MAF in place but are talking about the brass inserts in the airbox, right? Any leaks before the MAF sensor shouldn't affect the car a great deal, if at all.

When you pulled the plug off for the MAF did you pull it off while holding the cable? If so, check the wiring. 2K RPM idle normally points to a bad MAF sensor or bad wiring at the harness.

felibon

hey guys, sorry i took so long to answer. I hadnt driven the car for the last few days. It seams that everything is ok now. I guess it just had to sit for a while. All im concerned about now is the bolts that keep spinning. Would I have to buy a new MAF sensor housing (the MAF sensor itself is in perfect shape) or the peace that bolts to the MAF housing where the brass inserts are????. UFO, its the brass inserts that went bad, not the screws for the MAF sensor. Thanks so much for the help guys!!! Oh and one last thing. I should be ok without a tune with just the cone filter mod, right??

UFO

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm, sitting for a while doesn't normally fix anything; I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that the ****ty idle doesn't come back .

OK, so the piece you're talking about has nothing to do with the MAF sensor. The MAF sensor sits in its own tube which is bolted to the back of the airbox by 2 bolts that screw into 2 brass inserts that strip from their surroundings if you sneeze on them. So, you have 2 options. You can either buy a new plastic cover with the brass inserts already in it: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0 (part number 8) for $70ish. Or, you can use some epoxy to try and re-seat the brass insert in the plastic. Just make sure, if you go the epoxy route, that the insert sits flush once epoxied in place.

felibon

UFO, first off thanks alot, you have been great help. The idle problem is gone, i mean the RPM needle jumps a bit, but within the normal average....sometimes it will jump when its hot out and im sitting in a light but then it comes back to normal, nothing like i experienced the other day though. That was rough rough idle. Anyways, back to the crapy intake box. I guess i will be taking rout 2. I might as well, if i break it trying to fix it at least i tryed to safe myself some money haha. So how would you go about taking the brass inserts with the bolt still on there?? how can i do it without damaging the plastic in the MAF sensor tube around the bolts and the other plastic intake piece? Thanks again guys.

UFO

iTrader: (7)

If you have a set of locking pliers then just squeeze them on the brass insert and use a wrench to unscrew while holding the pliers with your other hand. Don't squeeze 'too' hard though because you're playing with brass here and brass is flexible and can close up or even crack. I tried pliers and I just couldn't get enough force on it to stop the brass insert turning but the locking pliers did the trick. Those little Japanese really have some strong muscles .

Locking pliers:

felibon

Thanks alot UFO!!! those pliers did do the trick. All i have to do is get the ECU reflash which is goin to happen on monday and im set. Again, thanks for the help and sorry for taking so long to get back. Take care bro.

felibon

UFO, i have one more question. What about to take the brass inserts out of the plastic "cup" it sits in. How do i take out of the brass inserts out of the plastic intake part the inserts are attached to? You said I can Apoxy them back in later. Thanks

UFO

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure but I think the inserts are put into the mold and the plastic is formed around them. So, in theory, they should be in there for life. Obviously, they come out with a little bit of effort but not without damaging the surrounding plastic. I guess you could force them out by screwing the bolt in with the washer and just keep tightening it until you break it free from the plastic. There's not going to be an easy way to remove them (although mine didn't have a problem working loose when I removed my air box) as they're not supposed to come out, so a little force will be required.

felibon

thanks bro, ill see what i can do. If not, ill get a new plastic piece.