Ok, Did this last night and followed the how to on the AMS 02 Downpipe How to and I must say it was a b*^#$.

1. I did not break a single bolt, I used PB blaster on EVERYTHING <-- this is a must!

2. When removing your 02 sensor from your Cat Converter, do not rape the threads like I did, I worked at it for 2 hours trying to remove it and finally just said eff it and forced it to back out, not a good idea, now I will need a new one most likely. (I think something was wrong with mine because it would not back out AT ALL, could not even break it loose, it would move about 1 mm then seize)

3. Two people is a must for this job, one person under your car can guide your wrenches onto those hard to see bolts, and it definitely helps.

4. Ratcheting wrenches are not necessary, although they would be of great assistance.

5. The bolts are locked down like they are meant to never be removed so prepare to bang up your knuckles and scratch up your arms when you are removing it.

6. !!!!! IF YOU JACK YOUR CAR OFF THE GROUND (WHICH HELPS SOOO MUCH) WHEN REMOVING THE TOWER BAR, BE PREPARED FOR YOUR WHEELS TO DROP !!!!!!

7. YOU MUST: REMOVE ALL HEAT SHIELDS FROM THE DOWNPIPE

8. Remove all children from the vicinity, because there WILL be copious amounts of swearing.

9. If you install a Test pipe like I did, the only heat shields that will be replaced are the one covering the exhaust manifold, and the one attached to the firewall of the car in the engine bay. (first two heat shields removed in the how-to linked above)

All in all, this install was worth it, I would rather have done what I did to gain the knowledge I now know, rather than pay a shop to do this, the only thing I regret is breaking that damn 02 sensor, however, it goes into my Cel fix anyhow, it just wont screw all the way in.

Picturesss.

Use this method to gain leverage on short-ended wrenches,

Be Sure to have a wide Assortment of tools

Side View of Down Pipe Shows the 5 bolts that need to be removed, bottom right hole has a shorter bolt than the rest

You can just see the stud that is bolted through on the other side of the exhaust exit

The two top holes which bolt the heat shield to the DP - Remove from Top Of car

The two bottom holes- Remove these from bottom of car, use small wrench with the method shown in picture 1.

View of 02 Housing from top of car, remove the three bolts visible from top, then remove the other two with a socket wrench, if you cant get enough leverage, use the concept in picture one, but with a big short end wrench slid over the handle of the socket wrench.

A side-top View of the stud which is bolted from the drivers side of the vehicle, have someone under the car looking up, they will be able to help you get a small short-ended wrench over the bolt, then, pull the wrench TOWARDS yourself to loosen the bolt, once its broken loose, its just a matter of time before you can turn it with your tattered fingers, be careful of your wastegate arm, and not to slam into it or bend it.

 

thanks , nice review it will help me to install the downpipe

 

I had the same problem removing my o2 sensor, it was seized. Quality at its finest.

 

Right, the other one on the Stock DP came out easy, IDK, is it possible to re-thread the 02 sensor? Or Do I need to buy a new one?

 

I used a stubby racheting wrench from snap on along with small pry bar to break the hidden bolt loose.

 

Breaker bars are very useful. I had to get creative on the heat shield bolts...tough to get leverage from underneath the car. Ramps are a better idea than jack stands in the front, like you said.

The DP heat shield is likely to vibrate since your aftermarket DP won't have the bolt holes on the bottom half. I'm going to pull mine off again and cut it down. I'll have to wrap the top part of the pipe instead.

 

I don't think that it is necessary to wrap your pipes. Even without all of the heat shields you will probably be ok.

 

I bought a turbo blanket and some wrap. It definitely can't hurt and the vibration has to go.

 

did you have to remove the turbo/manifold??

 

A lot of people have had trouble with O2 sensors. I sprayed PB Blaster on both of mine and used a crescent wrench. I got underneath the car into a position where I could get some good torque on the wrench, gave it one very hard pull and they broke loose pretty easily. I could then unscrew them by hand.

No

 

No need to take off manifold. I coated mine to keep the heat in. DIdn't use any heat shields. No issues.

 

Yeah agreed, the heat shields aren't necessary, and once you get to the point where the downpipe is installled and linked up to your exhaust, you will have no energy nor willingness to attempt to figure out where some of those small heat shields will fit in, leave em off, lose some weight, and be happy.

 

I'm planning to do a SteedSpeed manifold next year when I replace the turbo. With a coated manifold then the shield that covers it (the one that's gonna vibrate) would not be needed. The stock cast pieces retain/radiate heat a lot worse than your aftermarket o2/dp is going to.

The only small heat shield that I removed during this job was the the one on the driver's side of the pipe. I think it protects the CV boot from heat. I put that one back on and it sure seems like a good idea not to melt your boot...

 

LOL are you wearing gloves??? j/k Man I left my heat shields on just bent the MF'er out of the way. At my shop I have all tools to do it all (well make it not as bad) took 3hrs remove and install. took 2 hours get out 1 hour get it in. If you take passenger wheel off you can get a long ext in there with wobble socket makes it even easier. But yes PB is god on this job!!!

 

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