AMS EVO X O2 Eliminator 3.0" Downpipe Installation
AMS EVO X O2 Eliminator 3.0" Downpipe Installation
Howdy,
Yesterday, after months and months of anticipation, I received my AMS O2/downpipe an am very impressed with the piece. Since there aren’t really any detailed “how-to” threads pertaining to downpipe installations on here, I figured I would document my installation process in an effort to save everyone else some time on their install. As of today, I am only about a quarter-way through the installation as I just started late last night. Over the weekend, I will finish the installation and will update this thread with the rest of the steps and pictures.
First, let’s take a look at the downpipe fresh out of the box:
Notice the bellmouth on this thing is enormous, I love the solid casting used for this part of the downpipe:
Ok, now onto the beginning of the installation process. Pop open your hood and drool over all of the AMS goodies you already have in place:
Now, everyone may do things a bit differently, but I am someone who will take the extra time to remove more parts than I "have to" in order to not scratch or damage anything during installation. With that said, first, we are going to focus on the exhaust manifold heat sheild:
Before I began taking the bolts off of the heatshield, I removed the valve cover plastic cover. Simply lift up on this with even force and it will pop right off:
Next, I removed the 8 nuts and bolts (14mm) holding on the strut tower bar. I do this because it will give us extra room to slide the heat shields out through once they are ready to go:
At this point we have two things that could be potentially damaged out of the way:
Next, we move onto the upper heat sheild removal. There are 4 or 5 10MM bolts holding this in place. A lesson I learned last night... DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE COLD. One of my bolts snapped off in the exhaust manifold. I can't guarantee the heat made this happen, but my engine was hot to the touch.
Once all of the bolts are out, set them aside. The heat shield should be ready to come out:
Remove the shield, and place it aside. Next, we will turn our attention to the firewall heat shield. Remove four 10MM bolts from this shield:
You can now remove the firewall shield and the manifold shield. Put them aside:
Great. Now we have very good access to most of the stock O2 housing fasteners. At first glance, it looks like this is going to be easy:
You can now begin removing the bolts from the O2 housing, one by one. You will need to get creative in order to get enough leverage on some of these bolts. I recommend a good assortment of extensions, wobbles, and ratcheting gear wrenches with tilt heads.
Before calling it a night last night, I removed 2. One of which, SNAPPED in the turbine housing:
For now, this is as far as I got. This weekend, I will finish the installation, and may include some information on how to remove broken studs, etc. since I now have TWO that bit the dust on the way out.
Stay tuned guys!
UPDATE: As I mentioned in later posts, I decided to pull the full turbo, manifold, and stock O2/downpipe out as plans have changed a bit for my cars setup. I promised detailed pictures of all of the hardware in order to help you guys out once you decide you tackle your installation, so here we go!
First, let’s start off with a few views of the EVO X’s OEM O2 housing with heat shields intact. As you can see, you’ll have a much easier time with your install if you remove the shields from this piece as they hinder accessibility to some of the nuts and bolts:
Here is a view shots of the naked housing. MUCH easier to see everything and get a handle on it this way. There are two 10mm bolts and three 12mm bolts holding the shields in place:
For what it’s worth, here are a few shots of the OEM exhaust manifold. Notice my broken 10mm bolt that will be extracted soon:
Here is a group of photos of the stock EVO X turbocharger. Thanks to SiC for the OEM specs:
TD05HA-152G6-12T
Compressor: 12 blade (6 full/6 splitter), 68mm diameter, 48 Trim
Turbine: 12 blade, 56mm,76Trim
Turbine Housing A/R: 10.5cm^2
Wastegate Actuator Open Pressure: 11psi
Pay close attention to the small bolt in the compressor cover, as well as the 14mm bolt in the turbine housing IF you plan to pull your full turbo out:
Always keep your parts organized as certain nuts and bolts are specific to certain parts, (duh):
If you break any of the 14mm bolts that hold the exhaust housing or turbo to manifold, part numbers are on the bags below. The other bag is the OEM washers that accompany the bolts:
For demonstration purposes, I re-assembled the OEM manifold, turbo, and O2 housing to show where everything is situated in the car. Please note that some photos may have things upside-down for better photo quality, so use your judgment as to what angle you’re looking at:
Finally, I assembled the setup with the AMS O2/downpipe for mock-up purposes:
Sorry for the large pictures and slow loading time, but I figured it’s worth the wait if this is a job you’re going to undertake. Feel free to PM me with any questions anytime. If you’re in the tri-state area and need help with your car, you can hit me up for that as well as I live in Connecticut! Good luck guys!
- Louis
Yesterday, after months and months of anticipation, I received my AMS O2/downpipe an am very impressed with the piece. Since there aren’t really any detailed “how-to” threads pertaining to downpipe installations on here, I figured I would document my installation process in an effort to save everyone else some time on their install. As of today, I am only about a quarter-way through the installation as I just started late last night. Over the weekend, I will finish the installation and will update this thread with the rest of the steps and pictures.
First, let’s take a look at the downpipe fresh out of the box:
Notice the bellmouth on this thing is enormous, I love the solid casting used for this part of the downpipe:
Ok, now onto the beginning of the installation process. Pop open your hood and drool over all of the AMS goodies you already have in place:
Now, everyone may do things a bit differently, but I am someone who will take the extra time to remove more parts than I "have to" in order to not scratch or damage anything during installation. With that said, first, we are going to focus on the exhaust manifold heat sheild:
Before I began taking the bolts off of the heatshield, I removed the valve cover plastic cover. Simply lift up on this with even force and it will pop right off:
Next, I removed the 8 nuts and bolts (14mm) holding on the strut tower bar. I do this because it will give us extra room to slide the heat shields out through once they are ready to go:
At this point we have two things that could be potentially damaged out of the way:
Next, we move onto the upper heat sheild removal. There are 4 or 5 10MM bolts holding this in place. A lesson I learned last night... DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE COLD. One of my bolts snapped off in the exhaust manifold. I can't guarantee the heat made this happen, but my engine was hot to the touch.
Once all of the bolts are out, set them aside. The heat shield should be ready to come out:
Remove the shield, and place it aside. Next, we will turn our attention to the firewall heat shield. Remove four 10MM bolts from this shield:
You can now remove the firewall shield and the manifold shield. Put them aside:
Great. Now we have very good access to most of the stock O2 housing fasteners. At first glance, it looks like this is going to be easy:
You can now begin removing the bolts from the O2 housing, one by one. You will need to get creative in order to get enough leverage on some of these bolts. I recommend a good assortment of extensions, wobbles, and ratcheting gear wrenches with tilt heads.
Before calling it a night last night, I removed 2. One of which, SNAPPED in the turbine housing:
For now, this is as far as I got. This weekend, I will finish the installation, and may include some information on how to remove broken studs, etc. since I now have TWO that bit the dust on the way out.
Stay tuned guys!
UPDATE: As I mentioned in later posts, I decided to pull the full turbo, manifold, and stock O2/downpipe out as plans have changed a bit for my cars setup. I promised detailed pictures of all of the hardware in order to help you guys out once you decide you tackle your installation, so here we go!
First, let’s start off with a few views of the EVO X’s OEM O2 housing with heat shields intact. As you can see, you’ll have a much easier time with your install if you remove the shields from this piece as they hinder accessibility to some of the nuts and bolts:
Here is a view shots of the naked housing. MUCH easier to see everything and get a handle on it this way. There are two 10mm bolts and three 12mm bolts holding the shields in place:
For what it’s worth, here are a few shots of the OEM exhaust manifold. Notice my broken 10mm bolt that will be extracted soon:
Here is a group of photos of the stock EVO X turbocharger. Thanks to SiC for the OEM specs:
TD05HA-152G6-12T
Compressor: 12 blade (6 full/6 splitter), 68mm diameter, 48 Trim
Turbine: 12 blade, 56mm,76Trim
Turbine Housing A/R: 10.5cm^2
Wastegate Actuator Open Pressure: 11psi
Pay close attention to the small bolt in the compressor cover, as well as the 14mm bolt in the turbine housing IF you plan to pull your full turbo out:
Always keep your parts organized as certain nuts and bolts are specific to certain parts, (duh):
If you break any of the 14mm bolts that hold the exhaust housing or turbo to manifold, part numbers are on the bags below. The other bag is the OEM washers that accompany the bolts:
For demonstration purposes, I re-assembled the OEM manifold, turbo, and O2 housing to show where everything is situated in the car. Please note that some photos may have things upside-down for better photo quality, so use your judgment as to what angle you’re looking at:
Finally, I assembled the setup with the AMS O2/downpipe for mock-up purposes:
Sorry for the large pictures and slow loading time, but I figured it’s worth the wait if this is a job you’re going to undertake. Feel free to PM me with any questions anytime. If you’re in the tri-state area and need help with your car, you can hit me up for that as well as I live in Connecticut! Good luck guys!
- Louis
Last edited by HybridKOOP; Apr 16, 2009 at 06:52 AM. Reason: Updated with new pictures...
You are determined to have your's on first, hey? I would just add one step - spray WD40 or some kind of penetrating oil liberally on all the bolts and nuts and let it sit overnight before you start.
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This is the best "how to" I've seen on here yet! Thanks. Please make one for removing broken studs / bolts! The same thing happened to me on my VIII. Good luck with the rest of it! I have the same mods as you so far and this part could be next for me.
Yep^
Or ....
unbolt 02 housing from down pipe
unbolt manifold from head.
Take off the oil/water lines from the block/head area, pull off everything complete.
Then unbolt your O2 housing, finish removing the factory down pipe, reinstall the new AMS one, and then put it back in the car.
I think there is 5 bolts on the O2 housing.. 4 of them are a breeze.... and 1 of them is ALMOST impossible to get with the turbo still bolted to the manifold inside the car, as it is turned the opposite way (facing the pass side), while the other 4 are facing the driver side.
Good luck to the rest of your write up/install
-Chris
Or ....
unbolt 02 housing from down pipe
unbolt manifold from head.
Take off the oil/water lines from the block/head area, pull off everything complete.
Then unbolt your O2 housing, finish removing the factory down pipe, reinstall the new AMS one, and then put it back in the car.
I think there is 5 bolts on the O2 housing.. 4 of them are a breeze.... and 1 of them is ALMOST impossible to get with the turbo still bolted to the manifold inside the car, as it is turned the opposite way (facing the pass side), while the other 4 are facing the driver side.
Good luck to the rest of your write up/install
-Chris
