I installed the ETS version of the DP and it was a pain.I broke a bolt off and had to pull the exhaust manifold and turbo,take it to a machine shop to get it drilled out($52)and after that it was a breeze.Tried to drill throught it at first.I suggest letting PB Blaster soak in atleast overnight.After I got the stock DP off everything else was a breeze.I also installed FMIC,TP,CB,UICP,LICP.Installing these parts put together took less time than it did to take the stock DP off.

 

I don't have a place to uploaded edited pictures, but from Page 1, looking down at the manifold from the passenger side, there's a fifth bolt that' s under that SOB heat shield. I don't know what others did, but I removed that shield, which had it's own SOB bolt to remove on the under side of the o2 housing. To get that bolt off for the shield, I took two more bottom shields off.

With both of the two underside smaller heat shields off, the lower shield on the drivers side is no longer in the way so you can get a 12pt box wrench onto a NUT that is on the opposite side as the 5 bolts were. Note, a total of 6 fasteners hold it on, but the UR o2/DP will only have 5 holes. They've provided a bolt/nut to replace the stud that's the last thing that came off in my process.

PB Blaster rules. Avoid heat though. Don't soak it and then drive it any more than a few hundred hards, a minute tops. PB can make it worse if you heat the stuff up and bake it in. But if you have a nice cool engine, let the stuff soak for 30-45 minutes. There's plenty of tinkering to do while that stuff soaks. I soaked mine and then removed the stock CB stuff and worked my way up the pipe rearwards underneath the car. By the time I got that off and a few extra squirts, all were pretty easy. Except that to PB that hardest pain in the A*@ bolt above, I squirted it from underneath. squirted it a few times actually while I removed layer after layer of shield in order to reach the bolts. But all in all, my job was done in 12 hours, including a 2 hr goof off to mount my Star Specs and clean my wheels really really good. Solo except for help re-installing the bottom passenger side heat shield that I couldn't see the holes for from above due to it shape. So I laid under the car and guided my neighbor by seeing for him and directing where to start that one. It's the one with two bolts holding it on, shaped like a hollow heal of a foot. (best description I can think of).

The deep noise is SO COOL! And for the dyno buffs, can anyone let me know if my noticing of the lower RPM spool increase is real or just dreaming? It seems like it gets to a good torque level with 500-800 less RPM than before.

 

WOW 12 hours for a dp is alot. My ur o2 dp is coming in next week and I am not looking forward to it... should I pay some one $250 to do it or just do it myself?

 

Your estimate, if you have a fair amt of 12mm and 14mm sockets and wrenches and swivels, is probably closer to 8 hrs than 12. I think personally I took too long, futzed around with clearning wheels and mounting tires, and a couple of heat-induced brain farts where I stared at past posts about the placement of the bolts and the one hidden nut/stud thing. And I admit I went into the removal of underside heat shields slowly, as measured by time and temperment.

If you have a moderate amount of other things you're doing (such as CBE, tires/wheels, brakes) you can hit 12 hrs.

For $250, that's not a bad price for a TBE installation. I'd take someone up just to have saved knuckle busting. But then again, the piece of mind may go up or down with someone else doing this. It's a serious job and there's more than a few jokesters out there that claim they can repair and work on cars.

 

I posted a detailed how to on this topic in another forum. I am going to post it here as well verbatim, in a new thread. It will take me about 5 minutes to copy the threads over including pics.

 

Wouldn't heating cause the bolt to get bigger, and hence stuck even more?

 

Bolts expand along their diameter, which is small. Holes expand along their circumference which is larger (3.14xr2) loosening the bolt
The reason the bolts are getting stuck, some after coming partway out, is because the threads are breaking off the bolts in the hole, then getting stuck between the threads, effectively locking up the bolt. When the bolt gets stuck, do NOT try to run it back in and free it up. Just continue wrenching it out slowly. Do not use an impact either, as it will likely break the bolt, or damage the inlet flange further.

In the photo below, note the thread piece that is broken off the bolt.

 

In this photo, note the protrusion of the tap and the flange. It would be possible to use a nut and bolt here if the threads get destroyed.

 

it's fun hey :P Glad you got it done BTW, car sounds awesome!

 

Installed my xtremeboost dp this weekend. Took about 9 hours or so. Had trouble accessing some of the bolts due to the heatshields. This screams, wow. The wastegate starts to crack open ~10-12 psi. I just wish there was someway to make it open slightly later so i never hit it unless i was 100% wot. Right now the wastegate creeps open when im 2/3 throttle and push past 10 psi.

also the manifold heatshield is slighly rattling on the dp. I might try to trim that.

Should i reset the ecu to try to let the ecu relearn?

 

red spring forged WGA

 

Ouch, I actually was able to remove mine. But only after removing two other heat shields that included one PITA to re-install. The two headshields on the lower frame could come off, and then the bottom bolt could come off. My entire system is intact if anyone wants to buy one. I did scavenge two of those heat shield bolts to use for the underside skid plate. No more oil changes by anyone other than myself.

HINT: If you have to remove those two heat shields only to replace them again during install, the one on the passenger side with two bolts where they can't be seen from the top, use: 1) a second person laying on ground giving instructions and 2) a papertowel inside the socket holding onto the first starter bolt.

Man, without my neighbor's help, I'd have gone nuts or left off something to help spread and deflect heat.

 

yeah, the wastegate makes a GREAT sound now doesn't it? Whatcha think of the factory BOV? Doesn't it sound more noticable too?

Your ECU will reset if you just take cable off, but I've had it throw codes during race like conditions. I've been figuring on a tune. You might wanna think of same with a bad-A bolt on exhaust. Just finish your other bolt ons that you think you need. I wish I had already bought a CAI instead of the UW AFR gauge sitting around waiting for a bung and a pod. Dumb priorities.

 

yeah, im scheduled already for a tune. July 19th at DG Motors
i havent noticed the bov being any louder, but the dumptube screams. Windows down=Holy ****.

 

Well I just did this install. What PITA... I installed a front motor mount, AMS DP, and front and rear sway bars. Took about 12 hours of pain in the *** work. I have to say with lowering the the subframe it made the job a bit easier. Than without removing the subframe, you have to remove the subframe to install a new front sway bar. I managed not to break any bolt anywhere car has about 4500 miles on it. I replaced the DP stud with a bolt supplied by AMS along with another bolt. I did not feel like dealing with studs later on. I put antiseize on all the bolts just in case. A must is a 14mm tilt head swivel ratchet, makes the job much easier, a 17mm would not hurt either if you plan on lowering the subframe, make the bolts by the power steering rack much easier to get to. I never soaked any bolt in PB blaster or anything, just used a long 3/4 in breaker bar and a 12point 14mm socket. Went at the bottom 3-4 bolt, and the rest from the top. Took about 45 min to remove the 02 housing. Otherwise no real issues, beside the subframe is a ***** to put back into the car and alignproperly. A set of good old fashioned jacks helps support the subframe while you bolt in the power steering lines and steering column back on, then lifting it into position.