Not sure if you have to put the heat shield back on, but it is probably a good idea to, I did when I put my dp on. Also, it should bolt right up to the stock cat.

 

You do not reuse the downpipe heat shield. I installed the AMS downpipe on my X a few days ago with the help of a very good friend. This is a great thread. I read almost the entire thing before doing it. I bought all the recommended tools (14 mm ratcheting flex head wrench is a must, along with a 18" 3/8 ratchet extension, breaker bar and aviator snips, PB Blaster and some anti-seize compound). A pivoting head flash light was a necessary item too. For my friend and I, it was a complete success. We had no bolts seize or bust. We feused the downpipe gasket. We took everything off we could, including the waste gate and front passenger side wheel. We did it in his garage on jack stands. The nut on the downpipe everyone says was difficult getting to was not that bad. Just make sure you have short and deep 14 mm 3/8" sockets and all kinds of14 mm crescent wrenches. There were 2 bolts that were not possible for us to reach. They are the 2 bolts underneath that hold the down pipe's heat shield on. Without the heat shield completely off, it is impossible to get to the last bolt holding the downpipe on. I removed everything I could but there was no loosening the bolts holding the shield on. Not even with the 18" extension. This is where the snips came in handy. After that, I disconnected the O2 housing from the downpipe. On top there is one last bolt that blocks the DP from lifting out. It holds an L-shaped bracket in place. Its difficult to see but it has to be removed. Make sure to loosen the O2 housing's O2 sensor before disconnecting it from anything. I believe it takes a 7/8" crescent wrench. I let the car cool with a big fan pointed at it as we took it apart. We used all the PB blaster we could and went slow and it worked out. I did have a really hard time getting the O2 sensor loose and then there was the DP's heat shield and figuring out the other bracket was blocking the DP from coming off. Total time spent: 12 hours. I am very happy we were successful with this for my car. The journey was an epic one. I don't know if I could have done it without my friend. I would say for me that the results were worth it. I feel very good about having conquered this install and that the work was done by me and that I didn't have pay someone else. I know every bolt is back in and with anti-seize compound and there are no leaks. I would not ever want to do it again though. At least not a stock DP to aftermarket. Damn that heat shield.

 

Just installed my AMS downpipe yesterday.

Took me and my buddy about 6 hours to remove the old downpipe and install the new AMS downpipe, with a lift and a wide assorment of tools.

It took us about 2hrs to take 2 bolts off. Luckily none of my bolts snapped. Installing the new AMS downpipe is a walk in the park. It took my about 30mins to have it all bolted up and the car running.

 

looks like a bust to do

 

You've got to really want it. You have to be fearless.

 

who's in Socal that can help me install my 02 dump? haha

 

This is a complete PITA it took me and my brother 6hrs to get the OEM downpipe off and i quit for the night after that. Never again , id rather pay next time!

 

At least you got the hard part done! Putting the new one on is much easier

 

What bolt is used for the one that goes in the opposite direction?

 

Not quite sure which bolt you mean, can you take a picture?

 

I got it! Thanks. Finished! After driving it around my butt dyno says its slower. Once my intake comes in I will get it tuned. This Thread was great help to me! Thanks all

 

So what bolted up there, you got me curious now lol!

 

I was talking about the bolt in the o2 housing that doesnt come out at all. I was confused a little bit. A bolt goes there

 

does the hot side only have studs or are there bolts and nuts as well to contend with?

 

If I remember right, there are 4 studs coming out of the turbo and one stud is in the dp and has a nut on the turbo side.

Can someone confirm this?