AMS EVO X O2 Eliminator 3.0" Downpipe Installation
I tried to pull it out as a whole from bottom or top and it wouldnt slide out so i ended up removing the o2 housing from the downpipe and pulling the housing out the top and the down pipe out the bottom. It was fairly straight forward as long as you soak the bolts with some penetrating oil so they don't break off.
Man, this thing was a beast. Finally got it done though, along with ams test pipe and single exit exhaust. You really need the 14mm ratchet wrench to get the pita 5th bolt off the o2 housing (facing the driver side). Not as loud as I thought it would be. Hooked up the wideband since I was there. All I need is a tune to get her right. This how-to was great by the way.
if you use 2 10" extentions together it is easy to take out the spring bolts.. soak them in PB Blaster. if looking under the car at the Stock DP, it was easier for me to go from the right side of the dp over the top to get the left spring bolt and vice versa. I did the MAP O2 eliminator DP. would i do it again..... from stock, no....... replace this one with another one, yes. reason being... more room to work with the after market ones... also a lift helps a whole lot if you have access to it. both peices CAN be taken out together, but makes it easier to get to the hidden little gem with them seperated.
if you use 2 10" extentions together it is easy to take out the spring bolts.. soak them in PB Blaster. if looking under the car at the Stock DP, it was easier for me to go from the right side of the dp over the top to get the left spring bolt and vice versa. I did the MAP O2 eliminator DP. would i do it again..... from stock, no....... replace this one with another one, yes. reason being... more room to work with the after market ones... also a lift helps a whole lot if you have access to it. both peices CAN be taken out together, but makes it easier to get to the hidden little gem with them seperated.
Is it possible to pull the whole system out, assembled together like in the pictures? Ie, just unbolt the manifold from the block and all the **** on the turbo then pull everything up through the engine bay?
Read all 19 pages and now debating if I should just go to a shop to get it installed or use the money to buy more tools! I like buying tools to add to my collection of tools!
But like I've said...seems like a PITA install. I'm gonna jack up the car tomorrow and see what I'm gonna e going up (or down) against and deliberate which one is the better option: taking it to a shop, or buying more tools and install it myself.
Thing is, I like doing things on my own...peace of mind that the job is done right. If something goes wrong, the only person I can blame is me. That, and I would know how to fix it coz I'm already familiar with it. But the thing that worries me the most is the possibility of breaking bolts. Instead of saving, I would actually be spending more if a bolt or two breaks.
I have worked on automobiles since I was a kid and did a lot of installs on my previous cars. So I do have technical knowledge.... Just limited on tools.
But like I said, I will jack up the car and see what I'm up against. Thankfully autozone has the rental tool program and I can rent tools from them. But if I jack up the car and see that's it's more of a pain than fun...I'll just go to a shop.
That or I could go to the local college and talk to my professor there before if he can let me use the auto shop and everything in it: lifts tools, and technical knowledge of the professors. Now, that would be fun!
But like I've said...seems like a PITA install. I'm gonna jack up the car tomorrow and see what I'm gonna e going up (or down) against and deliberate which one is the better option: taking it to a shop, or buying more tools and install it myself.
Thing is, I like doing things on my own...peace of mind that the job is done right. If something goes wrong, the only person I can blame is me. That, and I would know how to fix it coz I'm already familiar with it. But the thing that worries me the most is the possibility of breaking bolts. Instead of saving, I would actually be spending more if a bolt or two breaks.
I have worked on automobiles since I was a kid and did a lot of installs on my previous cars. So I do have technical knowledge.... Just limited on tools.
But like I said, I will jack up the car and see what I'm up against. Thankfully autozone has the rental tool program and I can rent tools from them. But if I jack up the car and see that's it's more of a pain than fun...I'll just go to a shop.
That or I could go to the local college and talk to my professor there before if he can let me use the auto shop and everything in it: lifts tools, and technical knowledge of the professors. Now, that would be fun!
I've wasted hours on stripped bolts before. The solution: Get a bolt extractor kit. you drill through it, put the extractor bit in the drill, lodge it where you drilled in it, and then twist the opposite direction. Problem solved.
After looking at the pictures when my AMS Widemouth Downpipe comes in the mail this week its going to the shop lol. I'll watch them install it and maybe in the future I'll give it a try. Thanks for the write up though +1
i did this just the other day. I'd say it took close to 6 hours.. also had to take the stock downpipe 02 housing off from the top and the rest came out the bottom. The ams downpipe then slides in from up top very nice and that bolt that is a pain on the stock down pipe is very accessible with the ams one so a normal wrench can get it no problem.
Hey guys, I just installed the AMS Downpipe, my question is the bracket that was holding the old downpipe up, i believe it to be the the bracket in the picture attached. I didn't put this back on as there seemed no need to, but i read someones take apart guide and they said to put it back on. can you give me your input on this. Thanks guys



