AMS EVO X O2 Eliminator 3.0" Downpipe Installation
Evolved Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 919
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From: NJ
I dont even think there should be any talk about the 4 passenger side bolts or heat shields. Those for mentioned come off pretty straight forward.
It is the 1 opposite facing nut that we should concentrate on. There are a few members that said they used a "box wrench" to take it off from the top of the motor?? Can you explain with more detail? Do you need to remove the intake and ic pipe in order to access it form the top??
It is the 1 opposite facing nut that we should concentrate on. There are a few members that said they used a "box wrench" to take it off from the top of the motor?? Can you explain with more detail? Do you need to remove the intake and ic pipe in order to access it form the top??
I did it with everything in place, it only gives you like an 1/8 of a turn which isn't much to break it that is where I spent most of my time. I know with the strut brace and WG removed you'd have a lot more room and it's likely take less time cause of it. It's not required but it would help a lot.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 153
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From: Honolulu
I did it with everything in place, it only gives you like an 1/8 of a turn which isn't much to break it that is where I spent most of my time. I know with the strut brace and WG removed you'd have a lot more room and it's likely take less time cause of it. It's not required but it would help a lot.
. I removed the strut brace and WG actuator. It all went smooth with those 2 places removed.
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 854
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From: St Louis
I left my WG actuator on, just removed the strut brace. The two "shields" (I think one is a rock shield) on the passenger side under the o2 housing heat shields were like playing Taipei, one layer then another layer and then back to the shield I wanted to get off...
Just finished this with the help of Scottspeed21, and my Dad. Took 7 hours (no snapped bolts, a lot of PB blaster), a ratcheting wrench is a must for the hidden bolt, along with taking off the WGA and the upper O2 heat shield. As Scott explained to me while your laying under neath stick your right arm into the downpipe area from the passenger wheel well and it will make your life a lot easier.
The stress and day of your life is worth once you get a chance to get on it hard and just feel the crazy turbo response. Sound is maybe a little deeper and pictures can not do justice to just how massive and well made the AMS piece is.
The stress and day of your life is worth once you get a chance to get on it hard and just feel the crazy turbo response. Sound is maybe a little deeper and pictures can not do justice to just how massive and well made the AMS piece is.
Last edited by rallyredX; Jun 3, 2010 at 12:46 PM. Reason: spelling
Newbie
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 25
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From: Straight out of Lo Cal!
MAN! I wish that I would have searched for a thread like this first, before I tried to install my DP this morning. I was unsuccessful since the two bolts by the top part of my DP had very little room to manuver. I shall try again tomarrow and hopefully succeed. Thanks for the write up. It was a excellant DIY with plenty of details and pictures. I think maybe I should have gotten the AMS DP instead of the COBB.
So just finished installing my UR O2DP yesterday, ended up breaking 2 bolts in the O2 housing and when I was taking the nut off one of the studs which hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold the threads from the stud came with the nut.
So I had to drill out the broken bolts/stud. Let me WARN anyone who is going to attempt this, the bolts/studs are made of a very hard alloy material, the ONLY thing that will drill them out is a cutting tool made of carbide, cobalt will not work I tried and ended up ruining any drill I tried to use.
What I did was cut off the stud with a hack saw, then I used a quarter inch,
4 flute solid carbide endmill drilled through the stuck bolts, and then used a .405 carbide endmill to drill a through hole. I wanted to keep everything the same thread size so I went to the parts store bought (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25x40mm bolts and (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25 nuts, and a tube of anti-sieze. The nuts/bolts do have a 17mm head on them but its ok they will work.
Bolted everything up, and everything works great! Breaking the bolts was no fun... but it was definetly worth the time the car feels great!
Just thought I'd share my experience just in case any one ever breaks any of those bolts it was kind of hard to find any info on getting them to come out.
So I had to drill out the broken bolts/stud. Let me WARN anyone who is going to attempt this, the bolts/studs are made of a very hard alloy material, the ONLY thing that will drill them out is a cutting tool made of carbide, cobalt will not work I tried and ended up ruining any drill I tried to use.
What I did was cut off the stud with a hack saw, then I used a quarter inch,
4 flute solid carbide endmill drilled through the stuck bolts, and then used a .405 carbide endmill to drill a through hole. I wanted to keep everything the same thread size so I went to the parts store bought (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25x40mm bolts and (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25 nuts, and a tube of anti-sieze. The nuts/bolts do have a 17mm head on them but its ok they will work.
Bolted everything up, and everything works great! Breaking the bolts was no fun... but it was definetly worth the time the car feels great!
Just thought I'd share my experience just in case any one ever breaks any of those bolts it was kind of hard to find any info on getting them to come out.
So just finished installing my UR O2DP yesterday, ended up breaking 2 bolts in the O2 housing and when I was taking the nut off one of the studs which hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold the threads from the stud came with the nut.
So I had to drill out the broken bolts/stud. Let me WARN anyone who is going to attempt this, the bolts/studs are made of a very hard alloy material, the ONLY thing that will drill them out is a cutting tool made of carbide, cobalt will not work I tried and ended up ruining any drill I tried to use.
What I did was cut off the stud with a hack saw, then I used a quarter inch,
4 flute solid carbide endmill drilled through the stuck bolts, and then used a .405 carbide endmill to drill a through hole. I wanted to keep everything the same thread size so I went to the parts store bought (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25x40mm bolts and (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25 nuts, and a tube of anti-sieze. The nuts/bolts do have a 17mm head on them but its ok they will work.
Bolted everything up, and everything works great! Breaking the bolts was no fun... but it was definetly worth the time the car feels great!
Just thought I'd share my experience just in case any one ever breaks any of those bolts it was kind of hard to find any info on getting them to come out.
So I had to drill out the broken bolts/stud. Let me WARN anyone who is going to attempt this, the bolts/studs are made of a very hard alloy material, the ONLY thing that will drill them out is a cutting tool made of carbide, cobalt will not work I tried and ended up ruining any drill I tried to use.
What I did was cut off the stud with a hack saw, then I used a quarter inch,
4 flute solid carbide endmill drilled through the stuck bolts, and then used a .405 carbide endmill to drill a through hole. I wanted to keep everything the same thread size so I went to the parts store bought (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25x40mm bolts and (3)- 8.8 grade M10x1.25 nuts, and a tube of anti-sieze. The nuts/bolts do have a 17mm head on them but its ok they will work.
Bolted everything up, and everything works great! Breaking the bolts was no fun... but it was definetly worth the time the car feels great!
Just thought I'd share my experience just in case any one ever breaks any of those bolts it was kind of hard to find any info on getting them to come out.
especially hardened ones taking it to a shop is the way to go
But if you or anyone is going to try it, you can PM me with questions if you have any and I will try and help the best I can
I tried with my friend yesterday ... and it wasnt a success....
Will retry this week-end but just a quick question, If I take off all the bolts from the O2, can I pull it out from under the car ? , Will it fit between the engine and the firewall ?
If so, it will save me time so I doesnt have to reach the springs bolt of the second half of the DP
Will retry this week-end but just a quick question, If I take off all the bolts from the O2, can I pull it out from under the car ? , Will it fit between the engine and the firewall ?
If so, it will save me time so I doesnt have to reach the springs bolt of the second half of the DP