Forged Rods, Pistons, Rings
Dec 28, 2009, 02:12 PM
#1
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Forged Rods, Pistons, Rings
Hi, guys.
I am asking you for help with choosing of good forged internals.
I wish not to spend big bucks and get something reliable...
I will use FP Red on pump gas and, probably, never pass 500HP at the flywheel.
Can you point out something nice for me?
p.s. if you ask why I want them with so low HPs - well, just in case.
I am asking you for help with choosing of good forged internals.
I wish not to spend big bucks and get something reliable...
I will use FP Red on pump gas and, probably, never pass 500HP at the flywheel.
Can you point out something nice for me?
p.s. if you ask why I want them with so low HPs - well, just in case.
Dec 28, 2009, 02:54 PM
#4
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Well, you don't need forged internals at that power level.
What's your budget? Can you buy parts from US vendors, or are you limited to certain ones, being in Poland?
Several companies, Buschur and AMS for example, sell JE pistons. Buschur link: https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...dbd5d86d777cbb
As for rods, Buschur carries Manley stuff: https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...dbd5d86d777cbb
In the big picture the stuff is pretty cheap. Not a logical choice, really, given your limited power desires, but I've seen sillier purchases.
What's your budget? Can you buy parts from US vendors, or are you limited to certain ones, being in Poland?
Several companies, Buschur and AMS for example, sell JE pistons. Buschur link: https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...dbd5d86d777cbb
As for rods, Buschur carries Manley stuff: https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...dbd5d86d777cbb
In the big picture the stuff is pretty cheap. Not a logical choice, really, given your limited power desires, but I've seen sillier purchases.
Dec 28, 2009, 03:03 PM
#5
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
hotdog, I know I do not need.
But we see things completely different over here plus everythings costs twice as much!
So it better to invest once.
Everything I am buying I buying from the States with delivery to Illinois, so that is not an issue.
Yep, I was thinking about those Buschur-spec JE.
Am I silly? Well...
Just to give you an idea of price difference - brand new GSR costs 58000USD - how about that? So imagine why it is better to baby your car!
And as a good example: friend of mine blown 4G63 at 391HP/500Nm at the flywheel, just few days ago...Probably because of bad fuel, to aggresive map, etc. I don't know.
Here in Poland everything over 430-450HP gets forged internals.
We probably have different dynos over here - Evo 9, 390HP at the flywheel makes low 12s.
Does it give you any idea how to compare it to US?
But we see things completely different over here plus everythings costs twice as much!
So it better to invest once.
Everything I am buying I buying from the States with delivery to Illinois, so that is not an issue.
Yep, I was thinking about those Buschur-spec JE.
Am I silly? Well...
Just to give you an idea of price difference - brand new GSR costs 58000USD - how about that? So imagine why it is better to baby your car!
And as a good example: friend of mine blown 4G63 at 391HP/500Nm at the flywheel, just few days ago...Probably because of bad fuel, to aggresive map, etc. I don't know.
Here in Poland everything over 430-450HP gets forged internals.
We probably have different dynos over here - Evo 9, 390HP at the flywheel makes low 12s.
Does it give you any idea how to compare it to US?
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Dec 28, 2009, 03:55 PM
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Ouch. Well, yeah, I can understand it then, if my Evo cost 60k instead of 26k, I'd think differently too 
There aren't too many people running forged internals yet, so I doubt you'll be able to find a hard answer of "yes they're good" or "no they're bad". With both Buschur and AMS selling basically the same parts, the Manleys + JE, I'd say they'd be a good bet.
There aren't too many people running forged internals yet, so I doubt you'll be able to find a hard answer of "yes they're good" or "no they're bad". With both Buschur and AMS selling basically the same parts, the Manleys + JE, I'd say they'd be a good bet.
Dec 28, 2009, 03:58 PM
#9
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you can use your stock internals but if you want to upgrade you can use
JE Pistons or Wiseco
you can use Manley rods
JE Pistons or Wiseco
you can use Manley rods
Last edited by BigValley; Dec 28, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
Dec 28, 2009, 04:03 PM
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, so far!
I leaning toward Manley+Je from BR but thinking of Wiseco too...
Technical question: can I buy nominal size and just drop them in? What about their thermal expansion?
Is it necessary to hone the liners or whatever to prepare them for the forged pistons?
I leaning toward Manley+Je from BR but thinking of Wiseco too...
Technical question: can I buy nominal size and just drop them in? What about their thermal expansion?
Is it necessary to hone the liners or whatever to prepare them for the forged pistons?
Dec 28, 2009, 04:10 PM
#12
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Yeah, I am going for just standard bore but I read here and there about piston clearance - it might change due to thermal expansion, can't it?
Or STD are designed to expand and fit in the standard liner?
Or STD are designed to expand and fit in the standard liner?
Dec 28, 2009, 05:05 PM
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Are you going to build the bottom end onto a spare block? If so, I'd skip the standard bore and go 1 step overbore for a nice and tight bored and honed finish specific to the bought piston. Like you said... do it once and do it right.
Dec 29, 2009, 12:31 AM
#15
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Yes. You must check for piston to wall clearance even though the piston's bore may be the same size for the standard cylinder liner. I've read several instances where guys would purchase standard bore "drop in" forged pistons and install into their liners believing the same bore size will not cause issues... 1 guy had 2liners scored like a brown tire streak on someone's underwear (piston too big for liner), and the rest had piston slap issues (liner too wide for piston).
Are you going to build the bottom end onto a spare block? If so, I'd skip the standard bore and go 1 step overbore for a nice and tight bored and honed finish specific to the bought piston. Like you said... do it once and do it right.
Are you going to build the bottom end onto a spare block? If so, I'd skip the standard bore and go 1 step overbore for a nice and tight bored and honed finish specific to the bought piston. Like you said... do it once and do it right.
I don't have a spare block so those pistons would go to my DD and I can't imagine stripping the engine down to check first and then wait for the parts for 4-5 weeks...
But, of course, if that is necessary-well, it is better than score the liners or even seize the pistons!
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