Mine only comes on sometimes for a few seconds under hard acceleration.
I read that it can be because of wheels not being aligned and i think thats why mine comes on.

 

I saw this light coming in my car the other night. Turned out to be my wife putting her purse on the AWC button on the center console. Holding that button down for a minute or so causes the warning to fire.

 

I just had my light come on as well. I changed tires but didnt get an alignment as I have 19" wheels and the tires I ordered dont get in until tomorrow. I've read it could be the pump (Car only has 17,000 miles and no power mods as of yet) and I've been reading that it could be the tires but my tires are on the BBS stock wheels and they are 245/40r18 all around. I already scheduled an appointment with the dealer to flush the transmission and do a 4wheel alignment. Guess I'll have to talk to them about getting this done as well. I live 7 miles from work so not really sweating the driving cause it only comes on if I accelerate heavily for over a period of time.

So, I'll update the thread with the results after I get the car from the dealership.

 

Any news bro? Did alignment helped?

 

This may seem like a dumb question but is it harmful to drive the car if the lights on and lets say the pump possibly did fail ?

 

I have the same issue.
Stock car, 8.5k km
-27 degrees celsius
Code C161E
now car on the dealership

 

Mine just took a dump yesterday. Temp was right around 2 degrees F (-20 C).

Just got my CMC fixed 2 weeks ago and now this.

 

Yeah It only happens in my car during hard Acceleration. Took it in to Mitsub, they couldnt find anything wrong with it. then i Found some people on the fourms said this happen when getting close to 30PSI.

 

I think that pump requires ATF.
AMSOIL ATF Cold-Temperature Fluidity –Cold, thick automatic transmission fluid lengthens shift times and reduces energy efficiency (fuel economy). AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF is waxfree and delivers extraordinary cold-flow properties (< -60°F pour point). Shifting is more responsive, energy efficiency is improved and warm-up times are reduced.

 

I wonder if you could re-purpose an old bottle heater for a nitrous bottle to keep the temps in the "normal" range during the winter by wraping the pump or the reservoir?

 

Mine did this back in december, we had 2 weeks of sub freezing temps. After clearing the code, it still came up.

Brought it to mitsu, reflashed the awc, but the DTC still came up. They said my pump is shot. My warranty also expired last november , so $2000 was a tough pill to swallow.

The service manager at mitsu said he had only seen a few of these things happen.

It's all good now, I also took home the old pump hoping i can get it reworked/refurbished by a shop if the replacement I have now will have problems, but i hope not.

From what I've seen in the forums, cold weather does it.

 

I have extended warranty (7 year/100,000 miles) and they refuse to replace the part. Those extended warranty are scams.

I am told that I have to pay $2,000 out of my pocket to replace it. My first pump failed around a couple of years ago in the winter and mine just went last Friday (hot summer day). I don't have a lot of miles on my car.

 

i had the ayc pump fail on a car i purchased, the s-awc comming on every time you drive the car down the road, sometimes 100 yards down the road, on a hot day might go half a mile before the s-awc light comming up

i had the pump failure code

turns out the ayc pump had failed, and as these cars get older, its going to be a more common fault, my car was a 2008 model, with 30k miles again just out of warrenty

a good way to fiqure out if your pump has failed it to get someone to sit inside your car and start it up, just let it tick over, postion yourself at the rear of the car by the rear bumper, behind the rear wheel , this is where the ayc pump is fitted, on euro models at least

you can clearly hear the pump operating, if it keeps spinning at constant rpm whine for 7 secounds and shuts off you have a pump failure, it should spin up and pump up pressure and then slow down before the 7 secound limit. This car will shut the pump off automaticly after 7 secounds if the pressure is not building up. Once you no what to look for its quite clear

If you can remove the rear bumper, its even more easy to notice as the pumps right there behind the right side rear wheel, at least on euro models

also a note worth mentioning, when i removed the rear bumper you will be suprized how much crap builds up inside the bumper corners behind the mud flaps and plastic wheel arch trims

i removed large amounts of road grime/ dirt etc and the ayc is located in a postion on the right lower side where it gets covered in this road dirt/grime etc

a problem here is if you live in a location where its cold and wet, road salt sprayed on the roads in winter etc, then you having a salty mix gathering around your ayc pump, thus causing it to rust up, if you have not had a pump failure yet i would advise removing the rear bumper to clean all that crap out and spray some grease or something around the pump area to protect it



any i took my ayc pump off and sent it to a specilist here in uk whould refurbished it for £150, he said all it needed was a new pressure plate inside, lucky my pump was not rusted up as much as others he had seen, on some ayc pumps you have problems dissasembling them and parts can break, and for this car if any of the accuators, electirc motors etc are shot its hard to find replacements


all in i had a bill for £300 i took the ayc pump off myself, sent it to them, and then took my car in afterwards to have the pump refitted which took less than 1.5 hours for refitting and a bleed threw with fuilds

when i first got the car it had been in mitsubishi dealers for them to fix the problem, on calling them they said they bleed threw ayc system and thought the fault was with the ayc ecu??? i guess they must have known the pump had failed, they must not wanted to have admitted it, again when asked for cost of replacemnet ayc pump they quoted £2000 plus fitting, plus £140 to bleed the system afterwards????

so i would have been paying £2200 from mitsubshi , it cost me £300 plus £40 in fuel back and forth

also the guy who refrubed the pump says hes even getting them in from mitsubishi dealers to fix - seems a common fault as i was 5th in a qeue to have mine rebuilt

 

Yes it's fine you can drive it with the pump being shot. It's just going to drive with an open diff. Look into rebuilding much cheaper.

 

Hey guys,


I'm having the same issue recently and not sure what to do. I'm thinking it could be a alignment issue so I may try that first . I really don't want to take it to service and they rip me off as my warranty was void I believe. Any help would be greatly appreciated.