I wouldn't brush it off these pumps are a bit pricy mine just went out had 36k miles on the car the pump itself was 1,700$ it was covered under my extended warranty I would advise taking it in and not chancing it

 

Me: I would really love to hear more about the "bad alignment" theory.

You: Why ... so you can make fun of it?

Me: Maybe.

 

+1

30 000 miles on the car, it was parked for some days, during these days it started to snow, temp was around -10 Celsius....

At first start, I let the engine warm up properly, put it it "snow" mode, drove around 1 mile and on the first corner the "service required" and diff icon light came up

It was the first drive with summer tires on snow, I still hope that it somehow noticed it slips like crazy and this caused the error? Please someone say that might be the cause

But later with light coming on after ignition, I took a "U" turn and I thought I will never make it huge under-steer.

If the $2000 pump burn out just because car was left outside in the snow, then I will buy a Lada Niva and have fun with that, many of them are actually cheaper than this Mitsu pump anyway

Edit: it wasn't the tires, I installed the winter ones. Must be the pump, I will scan it.

 

its a common problem on these cars fot the ayc pump to rust up and then not be able to build up pressure


most of the time its not a failure of the pump if you can hear the pump spinning and not stopping until after 7 secounds you no you have this problem

the ayc pump should start spinning build up presure and then slow down, if your pump runs at the same speed after starting up for 7 secounds its probably the cause

if you live in a area with cold weather and salt on the roads, u will encounter this problem for sure

good thing is you can get them rebuilt for alot less than a new one, mine came to £300 rebuilt, where dealers wanted £2000+ for new one

 

I can't hear the pump at all , hopefully is not the electrical parts because I think the mechanical replacements are cheaper and easier to find.

 

This should be covered under 5Y/60K mile DRIVETRAIN WARRANTY. I had mine replaced under warranty four years after owning the vehicle. Don't let them strong-arm you.

 

the ayc pump is fitted behind the drivers side rear wheel behind the rear bumper, direclty behind the rear wheel, plactic arch liner, low down

if your sat in the car trying to listen for it, you might not hear it unless you no what your listening for

the best thing to is postion yourself crouched down behind the rear wheel area on drivers side next to the rear bumper

have someone else just start the car, and let it tick over your listening for a pump to start up and pump up pressure then slow down, if its spinning the same speed the car will shut it down after 7 secounds and there will be most likely a fault with the pressure the pump produces for the ayc awc sysytem etc

your listening for a pump to start, build up pressure, then slow down , stop, all within 3-5 secounds, if its the same speed and your timining it to around 7 secounds, its most likely a pump failure, if you can not hear the pump like you said there could be a fault with the electircs powering the pump


you will be very suprized how much crap builds up around these pumps, try to have a look if its covered in dirt and clean it off sparay lots of grease around it to

 

Does it start just by turning the key once (like fuel pumps), or when starting the engine?

 

Anyone reading, keep in mind that this person is in the UK and so the car is RHD. THe US cars have the pump behind the rear passenger wheel or right rear. Within the bumper.

We had rear bumper damage and the pump was part of the repair.

 

sorry forgot to mention drivers side is right hand side of car here

the pump only starts on starting up the car, its different to a fuel pump that might start with ignition on, 100% sure it only spins up on starting up the car(engine running)

 

I'm having the same damn problem; I'm literally at the
Dealership waiting for the verdict. Either a very
Simple fix with an updated re-flash, or the pump is shot,
then I'm stuck with a 1500.00 bill!! Ill let ya know what
the deal is...

1. Cobb intercooler pipe kit
2. AEM cold air intake
3. Cobb 3 port boost
4. Turbo XS-bell mouth down pipe
5. Turbo XS-test pipe
6. Turbo XS-exhaust
7. Cobb Tune

 

Same light came on and i threw a code ACD C6131E. Its around 80+ degrees here and my tank in the trunk is at max. Just hit 60k miles too.

 

???

Not C161E? In any event, you have too many digits.

 

^This, either way, C161E indicates a fault in the pump. Either have low fluid, air in the lines, or the pump is on its last leg.

 

Bad pump
Maybe I can help ?