So your saying those welds cant handle what you said it could. the welds are obviously terrible which let the pin back out and cause this problem . I think you should rethink your attidued and fess up to your bad welds before you dig your self into a bigger hole. If the welds were correct and your product would of held up to the extra power. Even Sheps told me over the phone that it sould of not done this if they were welded correctly.

 

turbo06evo is parting out a 08 gsr with a sep trans\dif. check out his thread

 

I do blame the previous owner too don't get me wrong. I know this isn't a good fix but you seriously can not say that the welds were good. I have seen better welding from a high school student in shop class. When I can pick the welds off my finger they are bad regardless what they try to say.

Btw I ordered a Sheps diff fully upgraded. If anyone has this same issue call them they have a good fix that helps with this.

 

Will do I got a diff but I'll look anyways

 

Dig myself into a hole? For what? Trying something to address a known issue? Granted it did not work. However you are lighting us up as if you were the customer (wich you were not) and given some kind of guarantee (wich was NEVER given to ANYONE), and some how got screwed by us, WICH IS NOT THE CASE. The pins would have backed out regardless. This is a known issue with these cars when they are launched frequently. You have no idea what was said because you were NOT the customer who had this done. They likely delayed the issue long enough for you to be stuck dealing with it instead of the origianl owner. Not so good for you, but the origianal owner definately got benefit from it.

The welds were MEANT to be surface tacks, NOT full structural welds. The intent was to use small welds to stabilize the spider pin and reduce the vibration/movement that causes the small retention pins that hold the spider pins in place to shear, hopefully preventing the shearing. Obviously it did not. However we did not want to damage the diff carrier by putting full structural wleds around the pins, in case it needed to be repaired later. The wisdom of this choice is born out by the fact that fully welded pins break the welds and back out as well. We did not know this until recently, but I have seen it for myself.

Obviously the pins move around and exert a great amount of force in their movement. This force is to great for ANY weld to take because of the inherent lack of flexibility in a weld. This same force is what breaks the OEM retention pins.

The way you are publicly blaming and accusing SSP is wrong. You have never had any dealing with SSP except when you called up here trying to get a free transmission. If you had taken the time to call here BEFORE buying the car, we gladly would have given you the cars history, and you likely would not have bought it. Thats on you, not SSP.

 

TRANS with welded pins is always going to fail anyway... it is not a proper fix!!

 

Send it to shep.. its the best you can do.. if you buy s used one you might end up in the same situation again!