317Speedworks

So long story short, i believe i bought a demodded Evo. There were some signs of a demod and so on that I noticed after the transaction. 2014 GSR SSS currently sitting at 68k. Anyway, car had a Grimmspeed 3 port when i got it. Seemed fine. Have been daily driving it bone stock for a little over a year now with no issues. Kept it stock while I worked on some other things. Well I put an AP V3 and a set of track wheels/tires on it a few weeks ago and took it off daily duty, since i originally bought it for AutoX. I got the V3 and did some reading and installed it. Car would consistently hit 33.5 psi and straight rip. I didnt realize that was an issue until it set a light for overboost condition and would heavily cut power. So i messed with the OTS maps and changed them and searched etc. Still would overboost on stage 1 and 2 maps. Between 4-8 counts of knock and would spike way high to 20+ counts at certain rpm ranges, which i assumed was false. So after leaving it on Stage 2 and taking it easy just to monitor knock and what not and try and put some pieces together it lets go entirely. Took it out of my street through first gear at grandma throttle and halfway through second gear just normal driving, maybe 10-12 psi and it throws the #3 rod. Totally shattered the rod, broke the wrist pin clean out the side of the piston, bent both intake valves on #3 and put a hole in the front side and back side of the block. Chewed the counterweights on the crank a tiny bit. The wrist pin is nowhere to be found and the #3 piston is sideways in the cylinder as i pulled the pan and can see the rings hanging out the bottom of the piston. So was my 3 port really to blame for all this? What are my options as far as a used bare block? I cant seem to find one anywhere that isn't a whole rotating assembly. Planning on a forged big turbo E85 build now since im starting from square one.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Very sorry that this happened to you, I have been there before.

I hate to say it, but even if you bought a de-modded evo, that's not what caused the motor to blow, especially since it worked as a DD for a year. It was most likely the 33+psi of boost and 20 counts of knock from the AP V3.

The important thing is that you had fun while it lasted and now you get to build it stronger than before.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Your answers lay in front of you.

That is a bummer. Make sure you get a proper tune with the new motor.

moparfan

why did you assume the knock count was false?

317Speedworks

Just from what I had read. People were saying anything over 10 would be detrimental(clearly it was). So when I was seeing between 20 and 40 at low boost I figured something was setting it off and there were no signs that a failure like this was about to happen.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Even 10 counts of knock is too high. A good tune will have 0 knock almost everywhere. The only acceptable knock counts are between 1 - 3 counts and only when the car is being pushed hard. Keep in mind that some engines other than the 4g63 allow you to push the timing map wayyyy past MBT and still show no knock before they blow up. It's literally that tricky.

Have you pulled what's left of the motor out yet?

317Speedworks

Yeah it's in my garage down to the long block. I haven't been able to source a new block yet so it's just sitting while I pile new parts. There's shavings in every intake passage, along with a large amount of oil, and through the hot side of the turbo. There were piston pieces in the intake manifold. #1 plug insulator was broken. All 4 valves bent on the #3 that blew. Haven't pulled the head yet to see if it's chewed up, but I'm assuming it is just from the amount of metal that was ejected and I'm almost certain the piston is broken completely.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

sorry to hear that. Sounds like you'll be needing a full rebuild, my car is down atm and I'm waiting on my rods, everything else is ready to go and pistons and bearings are out being coated. Damn Carrillo and their waits times...

Good luck with the reubild!