So I'm about to do the clutch in my car since the tob popped out and I want to do this as few times as possible. The big thing I want to avoid is to find myself 90% through and realize I missed one thing and it'll be a week wait to finish up while my motor is off it's motor mounts, my transmission sits on my floor, etc.

Things I've ordered - Explanation why, please, please help course correct
CMC - Because apparently bigger badder clutches means I need a bigger badder CMC
ACT HDSS Clutch Kit - Recommendation of other users
-- Comes with ACT Monoloc Collar
ACT Xact Flywheel - The goal is 450hp for this daily driver and it's had good reviews, but I'm really questioning myself if I needed this and if it will actually have a postive benefit or if I just spent $337 on snake oil.
New OEM throwout bearing
ACT Clutch Alignment Tool - Because I have no freaking idea what I'm doing, no time like the present to learn amirite
AMS Shifter Base Bushings - Because I hate the notchy feeling of our gearbox
AMS Performance 5 Speed Gate Selector Bushing Kit - See previous
WORKS Shifter Console Bushings - See previous
32mm impact socket
AMS Widemouth Downpipe - (Because the instructions have me removing the downpipe as part of this, WHY I DO NOT UNDERSTAND, I have a feeling I'll find out but seriously I don't get it)

What I forgot:
MITSUBISHI DIAQUEEN GL5 LSD GEAR OIL
DOT 4 Brake Fluid
Bleeder
Hose clamps
(Didn't forget but I'm getting AMSOIL transmission fluid instead of redline)

I have read hollywoods instructions at least a dozen times, my favorite part is "You can’t get anything done sitting there crying about being tired."

I have the service manual, hollywoods instructions, maps updated 2016 version of hollywoods instructions. I have been in and out studying each point. The time I spent looking into this probably cost astronomically more than just paying someone to do it but then I don't learn. But what am I missing

For example did I need to order the
ARP FLYWHEEL BOLT KIT (I had planned on just reusing the stock bolts)
Maybe some crush washers?
Anything, and I mean anything else.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the transmission down?

I appreciate it all, this is going to be a hell of a learning experience for me with nothing but manuals and common sense to guide me (and likely going at it without a buddy).

 

How do I keep posting in evo 1-9 :< sorry this was meant for evo x.

 

You can leave the stock O2 housing on the turbo, just remove the stock DP. If you have an aftermarket O2 eliminator DP, that will have to come out.


The flywheel is a good idea, it can absorb more heat than the stock piece.


You don't need gear oil for the Tcase. It won't be drained or lose fluid. You don't even have to disconnect the ACD line. Just unbolt it from the trans and shove it to the passenger side. Hold it in place with a tie down.

 

The master cylinder and shifter linkage I'd leave for another day. Make sure the new clutch is working right first.

 

Is the X different in that when you pull the driveshaft fluid wont come out of the xcase? I always just pulled the xcase out as I was afraid with all the shifting knowing my luck it would somehow find a way to slip out and crack the case. But I guess with strap that is not very likely. At least slipping out the xcase isnt the difficult part but rather squeaking out the actual trans granted this all applies to CT9A's so I should probably stop going off omy my rant...

 

No, fluid comes out. I used have the same fear as you. But after trying it, it saves a bunch of time to keep the tcase in the car. Can do a X clutch in 5.5-6hrs. 8/9 in 4hrs or a touch longer. Keeping the tcase in the car saved about 2hrs.

 

True... buttt, I may have already uninstalled them in my eagerness lol. (Cars down gotta turn a wrench on something)

Also, I want to say thank you all for taking the time out to reply.

 

Re: flywheel bolts. New ones aren't needed, but unless you have a strong impact gun and a good socket, the heads of the bolts tend to get messed up on removal. So, having either a set of OEM bolt son hand or the ARP set if you want to splurge, isn't a bad idea. When reinstalled make sure you use RED Loctite, and torque to 100ftlbs for OEM. If you get the ARP's, follow the instructions the ARP's come with.


Make sure BOTH dowel pins are in place before putting the trans back on the engine.


Replacing the front roll stopper engine mount is a good upgrade to do since it is off anyways while doing this job.