I put a turbo on my 2015 lancer
Nov 9, 2017, 12:16 PM
#17
Newbie
Sounds like you've already found your issue bud. You're not building boost because there are leaks in your system. Very simple. A boost leak even as small as a hole in a coupler can be catastrophic in a turbocharged system. Replace the coupler, then search on this forum or google/youtube how to build and use a boost leak tester. They're very easy to build and you can even use a bike pump to test your system depending on the fitting you use on your tester. I boost leak test my car as often as possible any time i have it apart or my intake off. Let us know what you find and keep in mind boost leak checking is near free compared to throwing parts at the car!
Nov 10, 2017, 06:17 AM
#19
Newbie
Thread Starter
Nov 10, 2017, 07:09 AM
#20
Evolved Member
Alright so by the looks of it, it's not building absolutely any boost anywhere. There is a massive leak, somewhere. Besides replacing that damaged coupler, did you conduct a proper BLT? And I'm not talking about the delicious sandwich with bacon lettuce and tomatoes!
If this is still an leak in the intake track somewhere, it's likely a coupler that's blown clean off. If you don't have access to a Boost leak tester, follow every pipe from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Look at every coupler, use your hand and feel around/pull on it to make sure it's still connected. Could have one lose at the intercooler behind the bumper which you can't see, so make sure you dig deep.. If not, you might have a huge exhaust leak pre-turbo. Either head to manifold or manifold to turbo. Although you would need a HUGE leak to not build any boost.
Last thing I could think of is the wastegate is somehow stuck in the open position, letting most of the exhaust to bypass the turbine. Did you test the actuator like I suggested? If you deemed that part is fine, remove the arm off the flapper (with the engine cold of course) and check the flapper. Open it and close it by hand. It should have a very satisfying last iron "ting" noise when it opens and especially when it shuts. When the flapper hits the housing. It should move very easily and effortlessly too.
That or you have something seriously plugged in the exhaust. Does it still have a cat? If all the above don't work, disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe and see if that changes anything.
Luckily none of the above options cost any money, just some time to diagnose. It sound like you're having a physical proplem, not a tune... The car could be running on 3 hell even 2 cylinders and still should build some boost. Yours sounds like it's running on all 4, there's just a physical issue keeping that turbine from spinning. Or keeping the boost it's trying to make reach the engine.
If this is still an leak in the intake track somewhere, it's likely a coupler that's blown clean off. If you don't have access to a Boost leak tester, follow every pipe from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Look at every coupler, use your hand and feel around/pull on it to make sure it's still connected. Could have one lose at the intercooler behind the bumper which you can't see, so make sure you dig deep.. If not, you might have a huge exhaust leak pre-turbo. Either head to manifold or manifold to turbo. Although you would need a HUGE leak to not build any boost.
Last thing I could think of is the wastegate is somehow stuck in the open position, letting most of the exhaust to bypass the turbine. Did you test the actuator like I suggested? If you deemed that part is fine, remove the arm off the flapper (with the engine cold of course) and check the flapper. Open it and close it by hand. It should have a very satisfying last iron "ting" noise when it opens and especially when it shuts. When the flapper hits the housing. It should move very easily and effortlessly too.
That or you have something seriously plugged in the exhaust. Does it still have a cat? If all the above don't work, disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe and see if that changes anything.
Luckily none of the above options cost any money, just some time to diagnose. It sound like you're having a physical proplem, not a tune... The car could be running on 3 hell even 2 cylinders and still should build some boost. Yours sounds like it's running on all 4, there's just a physical issue keeping that turbine from spinning. Or keeping the boost it's trying to make reach the engine.
Nov 10, 2017, 07:29 AM
#21
Newbie
Thread Starter
Alright so by the looks of it, it's not building absolutely any boost anywhere. There is a massive leak, somewhere. Besides replacing that damaged coupler, did you conduct a proper BLT? And I'm not talking about the delicious sandwich with bacon lettuce and tomatoes!
If this is still an leak in the intake track somewhere, it's likely a coupler that's blown clean off. If you don't have access to a Boost leak tester, follow every pipe from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Look at every coupler, use your hand and feel around/pull on it to make sure it's still connected. Could have one lose at the intercooler behind the bumper which you can't see, so make sure you dig deep.. If not, you might have a huge exhaust leak pre-turbo. Either head to manifold or manifold to turbo. Although you would need a HUGE leak to not build any boost.
Last thing I could think of is the wastegate is somehow stuck in the open position, letting most of the exhaust to bypass the turbine. Did you test the actuator like I suggested? If you deemed that part is fine, remove the arm off the flapper (with the engine cold of course) and check the flapper. Open it and close it by hand. It should have a very satisfying last iron "ting" noise when it opens and especially when it shuts. When the flapper hits the housing. It should move very easily and effortlessly too.
That or you have something seriously plugged in the exhaust. Does it still have a cat? If all the above don't work, disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe and see if that changes anything.
Luckily none of the above options cost any money, just some time to diagnose. It sound like you're having a physical proplem, not a tune... The car could be running on 3 hell even 2 cylinders and still should build some boost. Yours sounds like it's running on all 4, there's just a physical issue keeping that turbine from spinning. Or keeping the boost it's trying to make reach the engine.
If this is still an leak in the intake track somewhere, it's likely a coupler that's blown clean off. If you don't have access to a Boost leak tester, follow every pipe from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Look at every coupler, use your hand and feel around/pull on it to make sure it's still connected. Could have one lose at the intercooler behind the bumper which you can't see, so make sure you dig deep.. If not, you might have a huge exhaust leak pre-turbo. Either head to manifold or manifold to turbo. Although you would need a HUGE leak to not build any boost.
Last thing I could think of is the wastegate is somehow stuck in the open position, letting most of the exhaust to bypass the turbine. Did you test the actuator like I suggested? If you deemed that part is fine, remove the arm off the flapper (with the engine cold of course) and check the flapper. Open it and close it by hand. It should have a very satisfying last iron "ting" noise when it opens and especially when it shuts. When the flapper hits the housing. It should move very easily and effortlessly too.
That or you have something seriously plugged in the exhaust. Does it still have a cat? If all the above don't work, disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe and see if that changes anything.
Luckily none of the above options cost any money, just some time to diagnose. It sound like you're having a physical proplem, not a tune... The car could be running on 3 hell even 2 cylinders and still should build some boost. Yours sounds like it's running on all 4, there's just a physical issue keeping that turbine from spinning. Or keeping the boost it's trying to make reach the engine.
Yes I removed my bumper last night to change the coupler. I've physically checked ever coupler and clamp everything is correct.... At least from looking at it and touching it.
I have yet to do a BLT to it. As I really dont have time to gather the parts to make it or a compressor or bike pump. I have a 1 year old. Single dad so time is an issue. I am taking it into the shop on Tuesday but just wanted to try to find and fix myself but doesnt seem like that will happen.
I really hope its something simple.
Now here are things the shop forgot to do. Missing nut on exhuast manifold. Missing bolt on intake manifold. Missing exhuast donut from downpipe/cat area. Exhaust was hanging by my o2 sensor wire. Coupler with hole in it, that has been changed out. Also changed out the maf. I've also fixed the hanging exhuast. I also put the nut on for the exhaust manifold. No changes so it is either the stock lancer cat is plugged or a big was leak pre turbo.
Ill try to disconnect the wastegate arm tonight once my kiddo is asleep. What's the easiest way to disconnect the arm for the wastegate?
Nov 10, 2017, 02:08 PM
#22
Evolved Member
Ah okay I got you. Easiest way is usually to use some compressed air into the actuator to take off the preload. Then it just slides off the flapper arm once you pull the cotter pin. Other than that, if you don't have a compressor, simply use a pair of pliers to take it off and then to out it back on. Pull the pin, slide the actuator arm off. Check for movement, pull the arm back over the flapper and put the pin back. Shouldn't take more than 2-3 minutes to check 
Nov 14, 2017, 06:22 PM
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
Ah okay I got you. Easiest way is usually to use some compressed air into the actuator to take off the preload. Then it just slides off the flapper arm once you pull the cotter pin. Other than that, if you don't have a compressor, simply use a pair of pliers to take it off and then to out it back on. Pull the pin, slide the actuator arm off. Check for movement, pull the arm back over the flapper and put the pin back. Shouldn't take more than 2-3 minutes to check
Nov 15, 2017, 06:00 AM
#24
Evolved Member
The wastegate has no effect on a boost leak test. You could have one welded shut or have it missing completely. Glad the boost leak test checked out okay, and glad you tested it to 20psi. It's always a good idea to test it a bit higher than the boost you plan to run.
Nov 15, 2017, 07:42 AM
#25
Newbie
Thread Starter
Could a wastegate go bad in 3000 miles ? Its a brand new turbosmart wastegate.
Nov 15, 2017, 10:06 AM
#27
Newbie
Thread Starter
Should find out later today if the wastegate is bad or not. Any other suggestions on what it may be? If the w.g. is good and it holds 20 psi, what else could it be?
Nov 15, 2017, 10:45 AM
#28
Evolved Member
The wastegate doesn't "hold" anything. But you should see it opening up and closing at whatever pressure spring you have in there. So yours should be opening up at 10psi. Also like I mentioned before, ensure the flapper itself moves freely
Nov 15, 2017, 09:36 PM
#29
Newbie
Thread Starter
****UPDATE****
Apparently the problem has been solved. After many test and trouble shooting the shop removed the cat. Said the car runs fine and hits 10psi of boost. If this is really the case I feel horrible for not checking it.
Now the question can I run my car without a cat or test pipe for a little? Or do I need a replacement asap? And also will I need to update my tune?
Apparently the problem has been solved. After many test and trouble shooting the shop removed the cat. Said the car runs fine and hits 10psi of boost. If this is really the case I feel horrible for not checking it.
Now the question can I run my car without a cat or test pipe for a little? Or do I need a replacement asap? And also will I need to update my tune?
Nov 16, 2017, 06:40 AM
#30
Evolved Member
Woohoo I had a feeling if it wasn't a leak somewhere or a wastegate stuck open, that there would be a plug in the exhaust. My mom's Saturn had both cats plugged and it was so bad, I don't think the car made much more power than a lawnmower. It didn't have enough power to make it up a driveway lip.
You'll be fine catless.You'll just have a CEL on. A tune would definitely be a good idea just to be safe.
You'll be fine catless.You'll just have a CEL on. A tune would definitely be a good idea just to be safe.