Full Race EFR 8374 IWG Problem
Its equivalent to a shop charging for an oil change twice because they realized they didn't change the filter the first time.
We think we figured out the problem. He was able to take the Turbosmart wastegate actuator out and it seems it is faulty. It won't open for nothing, even putting it in a wise and pulling on it didn't work. So he said he'll warranty that and next day it on Monday.
Man. I don't even own an Evo. Just lurking the forums cause I'd like to get one in the next year, but I've been reading through your build threads. Hope this solves the problem and you can finally drive it without the limiter.
New problem guys, they replaced the Turbosmart and on Saturday I asked what's the latest. So he says I made 335whp @ 12psi but only 337whp @25psi. So he said the smoke test showed nothing so a boost leak test would be next. Then yesterday I asked for another updated and he said that one of his mechanics thinks it's the BOV leaking internally, he hasn't found any leaks so before we go there he's going to see if the hfc (just bought a used hfc) is clogged. So I just texted him now to see what happened. Does anybody have any thoughts?
Honestly, not sure how productive this comment is and I mean no disrespect but I think you should find a different shop. Everything about this whole story screams they have no business working on cars. Im sorry I really don't mean to be rude but you've given them good money and it shouldn't be this painful.
Thanks for everyone's responses I do appreciate it. I really like the guy and he's a chill guy but it's just the problems and the waiting and not being properly scheduled is the thing I get upset about. Like I said in another post, he is my literal next door neighbor to my dad's shop. So I see his shop every single day and I see when he's not working on my car and it just feels like anytime "I'm scheduled" and a problem comes up he drops my car and tries to work on the other cars he needs to get done. If he'd just focus and handle a problem when it occurs I think everything will be fine. I very well might have to go to a different shop worst case. I really don't want to do that and it would be very tough thing for me to do but if I don't have my car perfectly running by the end of June (which will be 1 year since I dropped it off) I may have to do that
Random question as well, I have the Mivec delete (pretty sure the exhaust side) and now I will always have a check engine light. Does anybody know if theres a way to not have a CEL on a built evo? He got the light off long enough to get my car inspected but it came on right after...is there anything I can do to fix that cause I'm worried I'll have to rely on him each year for that
Random question as well, I have the Mivec delete (pretty sure the exhaust side) and now I will always have a check engine light. Does anybody know if theres a way to not have a CEL on a built evo? He got the light off long enough to get my car inspected but it came on right after...is there anything I can do to fix that cause I'm worried I'll have to rely on him each year for that
Why did you delete MIVEC????
There are ways to fool an ECU (resistors and such), and there are ways to tune around that using software. I would be livid if my car had a CEL after spending $1000 on tuning. Get it out of there.
There are ways to fool an ECU (resistors and such), and there are ways to tune around that using software. I would be livid if my car had a CEL after spending $1000 on tuning. Get it out of there.
Well my whole build is pretty extensive as well as having a big turbo and S2 cams with titanium springs so as a precaution we deleted that side mivec because it usually cracks with bigger cams and stiffer springs and reving out to 8500. I haven't been tuned yet. All I have is a tune so that the car is driveable while I was breaking it in. The beginning of May is when he was going to dyno tune my car but then we ran into some issues, fixed one issue only to run into another one lol
Manny,
I run S2 cam with beehives springs+titanium retainer on my stock block for the past 4 years and 20k miles on it. The exhaust cam is perfectly fine last I check.
If you don’t plan to race your car, you probably don’t have to worry about it as much.
I am sorry to hear about all the drama you went through. Razorlab also has a shop drama with his built in another forums. Finding a good shop that works on evo is very few and far between depending on where you are unfortunately.
good luck!
I run S2 cam with beehives springs+titanium retainer on my stock block for the past 4 years and 20k miles on it. The exhaust cam is perfectly fine last I check.
If you don’t plan to race your car, you probably don’t have to worry about it as much.
I am sorry to hear about all the drama you went through. Razorlab also has a shop drama with his built in another forums. Finding a good shop that works on evo is very few and far between depending on where you are unfortunately.
good luck!
Well my whole build is pretty extensive as well as having a big turbo and S2 cams with titanium springs so as a precaution we deleted that side mivec because it usually cracks with bigger cams and stiffer springs and reving out to 8500. I haven't been tuned yet. All I have is a tune so that the car is driveable while I was breaking it in. The beginning of May is when he was going to dyno tune my car but then we ran into some issues, fixed one issue only to run into another one lol
I did a lot of research about it and I have found many people had that problem, having the housing crack. Also I follow a guy on youtube with a 9174 build by a very good tuner JRP and they kept the stock housing and when they dyno tuned it the housing cracked and they had to delete mivec on the exhaust side only
S2 + springs and retainers need the exhaust mivec deleted or turned off. The exhaust mivec doesn't get enough oil to control the cam with a bigger cam and upgraded springs. The housing cracks because the mivec gear is literally just slapping back and forth on itself and it eventually fails.
Idk how its done, but you the code can be fixed in the tune. Idk if there is a way to just turn it off, or if you set the exhaust mivec table to 0* across the whole thing and that fixes it.
Idk how its done, but you the code can be fixed in the tune. Idk if there is a way to just turn it off, or if you set the exhaust mivec table to 0* across the whole thing and that fixes it.
S2 + springs and retainers need the exhaust mivec deleted or turned off. The exhaust mivec doesn't get enough oil to control the cam with a bigger cam and upgraded springs. The housing cracks because the mivec gear is literally just slapping back and forth on itself and it eventually fails.
Idk how its done, but you the code can be fixed in the tune. Idk if there is a way to just turn it off, or if you set the exhaust mivec table to 0* across the whole thing and that fixes it.
Idk how its done, but you the code can be fixed in the tune. Idk if there is a way to just turn it off, or if you set the exhaust mivec table to 0* across the whole thing and that fixes it.
https://boostedforums.net/showthread...ure-how-common
I agree with you that higher spring pressure exacerbates any present valve lash problems, but plenty of folks run the mivec with s2 springs and never run into issues. Incorrect valve lash paired with oil starvation seems to be the main culprit. I was concerned that the shop steered him to that decision because they didn't want to mess with the mivec. Anecdotally, mine's been fine on 2s cams and springs for about 15k miles. I understand why someone would just go with a solid gear to avoid possible problems later on though.
MannyEvoX - Can you just go over to the shop yourself, pull the cat and see if it acts better?








