okay so the engine just popped on my 2008 Evo X. im looking to rebuild it and built it right, maybe even slightly overbuild it to ensure everything can handle what im throwing at it. i want to use the car as a DD and get my feet wet with autocross/ SOLO. i would like to build to 500WHP, and i do not have E85 anywhere near me. below is what is added on the car right now. I'm looking for advice on supporting mods, fueling, hard parts, internals, injectors, turbo, and tuning. This is my first evo X and i want to do this rebuild the right way with high quality parts. I'm a firm believer in doing things right the first time. posted below is the information i was given on the car when i purchased it. Thanks in advance everyone


157k on body
engine 61k new time chain
transfer case 61k
Transmission 75k
JM fab Tubular manifold
3" Map downpipe open dump
3" Hi flow cat
CPE axle back
3" Turbo Inlet
ETS intercooler kit
Turbosmart BOV
Perrin EBCS (not installed)
ACT clutch and Flywheel
Aem Wideband
Turbosmart Boost gauge
BC Coilovers

 

Probably something like a FP Red or GTX3576 for that power level with decent spool I would guess

 

im guessing for autocross and solo events im looking for something fast spooling and maybe the goal of 500 is unrealistic to be competitive as the boost lag is going to become an issue. straight line racing and acceleration is always great fun, but it looks like most courses, you stay under highway speeds, so responsive throttle and boost will be better suited? i think if im reading rules correctly as well most events you cant use anything over 93 octane..

 

MHI-18K would be the best for autox.

3576 would suck

 

I agree that's probably what I'm going with or an FP Red. Would that get him to 500whp without E85 though? I'm in a similar position with no access to E85 but don't care about the 500whp as much.

 

You need to think very hard about what class you want to race in autocross (and how to be competitive), and realistic power goals for pump fuel. The only way you're going to make 500hp on pump gas is a turbo kit. Having a built engine and/or upgraded turbocharger moves you into SM which is an extremely competitive class with highly modified cars (to the point of custom suspension components) and is certainly not a class for a daily driven car.

 

Agreed. Class rules are going to largely dictate all of your mods and 500hp is a pretty arbitrary goal for autocross in general. Dialing the car in to the maximum extent the rules allow is the goal and usually focuses on powerband, gearing, aero, suspension, wheels, and tires and not hp as a target.

If you want to build a car to DD and take out a couple times a year to an HPDE event, the sky's your limit and you can set some different goals entirely.

 

500whp on a 2.0L on pump gas is not compatible with autocross. 500whp on a 2.0L would require a gigantic turbo, which probably wouldn't even spool in 2nd gear. Autocross is mostly spent in 2nd gear. You would be slower than 300whp Evos at autocross. Significantly slower.

So this is your first time driving an Evo and your first time autocrossing? Don't change anything on the car until you have a year of autocross events under your belt. And definitely don't spend any money on parts until you've had enough seat time to understand the car's weak points. You also need to understand the rules and classing. You will be more competitive by demodding the car to fit a lower class than by trying to add power.

If you must satisfy the urge to buy something, get good autocross tires and an alignment. That will make the single biggest difference in your times.

 

While the bolded part is wrong, a precision gen2 5558 or 5858 fairly easily makes 500whp on pump and they do actually spool fairly well, the underlined part is correct. They would be on the laggy side for autocross, and fairly less than ideal. It would be easier to go faster in a stock turbo car with a good setup. Hell, Dallas runs his car around 425whp in SM, IIRC.

The rest is sound advice though.

 

I think we're saying the same thing. OP is going to be faster with a 300whp 2.0L than a 500whp 2.0L.

I still maintain that any 500whp pump gas setup on a 2.0 is going to be too laggy to use on an autocross course. Definitely not enjoyable. A turbo that spools okay-ish for a 4th gear dyno pull will spool much later in 2nd gear on an autocross course. Dallas' 2.2L E85 425whp setup is apples and oranges to a 2.0L pump gas 500whp setup.

EDIT: Are there any pump gas 5558 or 5858 dynos floating around? The closest I can find is razorlab's 5858 + E85 dyno: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11796206 Looks fun for track work, but I wouldn't want that for autox. Definitely not a good setup for someone new to autox.

 

Here you go. Its an MR so it probably would have been around 520 or 530WHP on a GSR.

5858 stock block. GSC S2s cams.

I did some AutoX in my car. It did great! A little bit laggy but you can drive around it. At the particular event I went to it was the fastest car on DOT tires.

- Robert

 

I agree it's too laggy to be appropriate for autocross. Just don't want someone to read this in the future and get the wrong idea of how to make 500whp on pump gas with an EvoX. And that it takes an insanely huge turbo.

I brought up Dallas's car to make a point that HP isn't even close to the largest consideration for autocross. Not to compare setups.

 

First of all your all amazing, thank you for the input. the more I look into the rules I am seeing that a horsepower goal isn’t really what I should be focusing on. That being said the motor is down and out and going to need rebuilt. I see I can only bore it .01 over and I cant swap cast for forged, but I’m looking for advice on quality brands, other parts I should or can upgrade while I’m in there getting it running again. I am hoping to get the motor pulled out this week, ill keep you all posted on what I find when I tear it apart. If anyone is knowledgeable on SCCA rules and is willing to guide me on what I should and shouldn’t do to the car. I understand I haven’t done SCCA SOLO yet and haven’t run the car, I just don’t want to rebuild it now, just to have to upgrade it down the road. I want to do it right the first time.

 

Disclaimer: I'm doing less SOLO lately, so my rules knowledge could be out of date. Always double-check the rulebook before you put your credit card down for new parts.

In traditional classes, Evos progress through the follow classes as you add more mods:

D Street: Street tires. Mostly stock with a few key exceptions. Perfect place for stock-ish cars to start, but you're modded too far past this point.

Street Touring Ultra: Street tires. Strict modding rules, but still enough room to build a fun car. You'd need to build an OEM-spec engine (slight overbore allowed) and remove a few parts that aren't allowed. At minimum, the intercooler, clutch, and BOV would have to go back to stock. If your goal is to build a car than can be competitive without going off the deep end, this is the sweet spot IMO.

Street Mod: This is probably where your car would be classed now. Rules are very open, but you still need to scour the rules for any exceptions. You could build the 4B11T however you'd like. You won't be competitive in this class unless you also invest significant amounts of money on weight reduction, suspension, the widest wheels and tires you can fit (Hoosiers), and you invest a lot of time into suspension tuning and learning how to drive.



In your case, you might be best served by the new XS class. It's similar to Street Mod but only allows street tires to keep the costs down. This class is technically a "for fun" class because it doesn't compete at SOLO nationals, but it's great for local events. The goal is to capture people who just want to mod their cars first without fitting to tight rules, but they don't want to spend thousands of dollars on sticky Hoosier tires every year. You'll have to look up the rules for yourself and read them in detail, but it could be a good fit.

 

You have ASP between STU and SM as well. More mods allowed, but OEM engine internals required.

Basically, if you put aftermarket parts in the engine, you'll be in SM. And I don't think that's a good place to start with autocross.

I would find a new OEM long block and install that in the car. Save your blown up motor for later when you're actually ready for a built motor.