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Evo X stock turbo upgrades

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Old May 19, 2020 | 12:10 PM
  #1  
austinaltaffer's Avatar
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Evo X stock turbo upgrades

Hi all,

im looking to find information on what upgrades i can do to the stock turbo, i dont really want to do a full turbo replacement, just upgrade the stock, one compressor wheel etc. and i cant find dimensions or good options to work on the stock cartridge to make it a little better. I dont want to pay the 2 grand or whatever for a new turbo and have it be more laggy and whatnot. any help is appreciated.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 01:47 PM
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-kamak-5.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...eet-turbo.html
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Old May 19, 2020 | 01:49 PM
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Any change in compressor is going create more lag. The best option is an MHI18k turbo replacement. A larger compressor on the stock turbine and housing compound the fact that the stock turbine and turbine housing are already very small.
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Old May 23, 2020 | 02:49 PM
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I haven't tried it yet on an Evo X , and I need someone to try it
The 6b31 throttle body off a outlander V6 works a treat on the NA lancers.
It is a 65mm throttle body and is bigger then the RA/Evo X.
It will bolt up to the inlet manifold as the PCD for the bolts is the same.
However it would be a wise idea to bore out the inlet manifold where the TB bolts to as to allow a much smoother air flow. Having said that you could just bolt it up and go however that isn't really ideal.
If you can lay your hands on a 6b31 throttle body and they look like this

http://imgur.com/a/wsbCiPD

If.you disconnect the negative lead off the battery and switch the headlights in to drain any residual power from the system and leave it like that.
Now disconnect the connection to the throttle body on your car and plug in the 6b31 to test it before you go unbolt anything.
Let the throttle body rest on the car and turn the light off and reconnect the battery.
Now turn the key around to bring up all the lights on the instrument cluster but do not turn the key further the engage the starter.
Now press the throttle up and down with your foot and watch the butterfly in the throttle body.
It should match the movement as your foot moves up and down on the throttle pedal .
If that works and I'm confident it will , we are in business.
There is 2 X radiator hoses you can connect up to the throttle body and remove the old one and drop the 6b31 in.
However you will also need to get the ECU rom updated so it can handle the higher air flow from the bigger TB.
This will be an inexpensive upgrade for the stock EVO X and RA cars.
Grab a 6b31 TB off a wrecker they are the 3L V6 petrol motor

This is how I got it to fit the 4b11 / 4b12 NA motor

http://imgur.com/a/XFar7xr

The principal is the same for the RA and Evo X however the TB sits in a different position on the RA / X so no need to cut the hose connector off as I did for the NA.

Let me know how you go
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Old May 23, 2020 | 05:54 PM
  #5  
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I have had FANTASTIC success with 20g compressor wheels. 20g long ago was an actual MHI offering. Now in this application it really describes a "form factor" of a compressor inlet of 52.65mm and an exducer at the base plate of 68mm. You may recognize that 68mm base plate diameter is what is STOCK in the Evo X. This means that no machining is needed for the center section. If you look at the specs for the 71HTA by FP it is literally a HAIR different than 52.65mm inducer, with the same base of 68mm! In that offering they leave the small 12 blade TD05 turbine as a choking point for some reason. As mentioned above the turbine is already small. So in order to keep the super fast spool, but increase the flow on the high end I replace the TD05 12 blade with a 9 blade STS turbine. No machining of turbine housing required.

So what I have run is a 20g Garrett GTX style 11+0 billet compressor and a 20g EFR style 7+7 billet compressor both with 9 blade STS TD05 turbines. I have run these combos for YEARS culminating in the EFR style 7+7 on E85 throwing down 450hp to the wheels. Blue is 4th gear and red is 3rd gear in dyno graph below. This same section of road, same test method, mostly stock I made 226hp to the wheels in 2012. The GTX had an "extended tip" to 71mm and the EFR has an "extended tip" to 73mm. This basically means that the compressor flares up and misses the 68mm groove in the baseplate. If you go read my build threads I have pics of this, it is interesting because I know the guy who knows the guy who did that by ACCIDENT at BorgWarner way back in early 2000's. He forgot to set all the boundary conditions as the server worked overnight to design some compressor. The next day he sees that the computer decided that to increase efficiency it flared up the tip to basically bypass the single parameter limit of the base plate diameter! It allows the compressor map to go slightly into higher pressure ratios. I have heard some people say that the 20g is TOO big for the TD05 shaft, and other nonsense. It is literally the same base diameter as stock (68mm), but with a modern billet aero design and larger inlet of 52.65mm (yes you need a new compressor cover). This turbo spools like stock but never falls on it's face. But you cannot just buy one with a cool name so almost no one runs this setup. Last side notes: I use only MHI center sections and turbine housings, and after building the CHRA I send it to PureTurbos for VSR balancing each time.


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Old May 23, 2020 | 05:56 PM
  #6  
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I wrote my response before realizing you linked my threads... LOL... Thanks a lot, I do appreciate that. I also appreciate that you guys and the Evo community are always open to master-tinker'ers like myself and at least come at things with open minds

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Old May 23, 2020 | 07:26 PM
  #7  
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I love the work done with swapping out the blades and reducing them, makes sense to do so.
Keep up the great work
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