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Yea I read that too that it'll be long enough which is disappointing. It might be worth trying to reach out to them to see if they can help provide jumpers.
Took a drive around Brooklyn. The driving position is literally perfect now. I can take tighter turns without my hands getting blocked by my knees, I can make a mid turn gear shift without my knee hitting the steering wheel. My back is perfectly cupped in my Recaro Speed S seat, I don't have to sit almost completely upright now with the upper bolsters rolling my shoulders forward. Great mod, it would be so much better if it was adjustable, from factory, but what can you do.
For context, I'm 6'2", about 34" inseam, so to be close to the non-telescoping steering wheel, I had to pretzel my size ~12.5 feet and legs in the footwell. I took out the OEM carpet and replaced with a paper thin door mat to get a quarter inch of room. I only drive with my Puma driving shoes (the ones that are painful to walk in) cause any sort of a normal bottom sole would be way too large. My knees were hard pressed against the bottom of the plastic. So for me, every 1/8th inch mattered. And being able to move the seat back a notch and free up the legs and recline the back rest, godsend.
One additional thing I noticed is that the steering wheel will vibrate more visibly. That's expected I guess, the steering "stem" is longer now so it will oscillate more. It's only noticeable at idle, really, but you can definitely see it shaking up and down.
Very happy to hear! Hopefully the come back with the solution for the wiring though....
I'm trying to see what the result would be for the wiring before I bolt it on.
Got my wiring done. I might redo it in the future. I'll post the idea in the next comment.
So I had some jumper cables around, used for wiring up electronics on breadboards.
They fit the OEM connectors pretty much perfectly as far as spacing. I did have to grind down the plastic for the male end above, just to expose more length of the wire.
I ripped off a string of 5 cables, this is nice because they're all kept together, no need for tape or zip ties, and it's easy to see their order:
Then I just slipped them into the female OEM connector:
And the male one, on the underside of the clockspring. This was a pain in the butt though:
You can see how perfectly the female ends fit into the OEM connector, barely any gap between them, all in a perfect row.
With a ribbon like this, it's easy to keep the same order of wires, just match the colors up, like you see here:
Now, to secure these wires, since they don't clip in. You really can't do much about the clockspring side, almost impossible to get any electrical tape there, so you're just relying on friction. For the other end, you can wrap it all up in electrical tape, this should hold well.
I did secure the cable slack to the base of the spacer, as best I could, this should keep it from shifting at least.
Now, we come to the horn. This is just a single ground wire, it appears to be standard size and I used-off the-shelf male and female spade connectors and made a short jumper wire.
Male end goes into the clockspring side (I did cut away some of the heatshrink just to get it in as deep as possible, is what she said):
Female end into the airbag.
And there you have it, fully working button lights, and you can see the cruise control light on:
Last edited by fafaforza; Apr 9, 2021 at 04:02 PM.
My main issue are the male jumpers connecting to the bottom of the clockspring.
I could cut off the connector on the right and solder the male jumpers to that. So then the OEM connector clicks into the clockspring, and thejumpers at position (1) go into the existing connector on the wheel. And here, I can use electrical tape to secure them completely.
You can also cut away the connector on the left, solder on a spade so that the spade goes into the OEM connector coming off the clockspring, and the OEM connector in position (2) clicks into the airbag.
So you're improving the security of two connection points with this.
Thanks for the all the information it looks like the jumper ribbon cable is probably the better way to go as it's very clean and relatively stress free. Thanks for all the information!
I did get a reply from Giacomo. You still need to make the spade jumper for the ground, but it looks like you could extend the other harness by pulling it out of the original position, so you could get it done without jumpers.
ah that does make it a lot better, then we can skip the jumpers and just extend ground. This does make me feel better about things. Hopefully it'll bring the steering wheel feel more similar to my s2000 feel.
ah that does make it a lot better, then we can skip the jumpers and just extend ground. This does make me feel better about things. Hopefully it'll bring the steering wheel feel more similar to my s2000 feel.
Did you end up installing it yet? How did you make out by relocating the harness in the wheel?
Did you end up installing it yet? How did you make out by relocating the harness in the wheel?
Yes it's not so much relocating the harness. If you can see in the first picture bottom middle there's a grey plug. That's the original position. The purple ground on the right, and at the top is the part of the harness that you need to extend. I've made some adjustments as you can see to essentially pull it downwards more to give it the necessary slack to connect to the bottom of the connector (5th picture). Last picture is the jumper for ground.
