Paint Issues (Hood Scoop)
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Paint Issues (Hood Scoop)
I know the paint issue has come up many times. What I am looking to see if anyone has had issues with paint chipping away from the intake scoop?
I am currently waiting as my dealers needs to take a picture and send away to see if Mits will cover.
If anyone has had this and has had it replaced under warranty please let me know. I figure they will be giving me a hard time about this.....
I am currently waiting as my dealers needs to take a picture and send away to see if Mits will cover.
If anyone has had this and has had it replaced under warranty please let me know. I figure they will be giving me a hard time about this.....
#2
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Yeah i have issues too. At first i though maybe a rock got kicked up but i guess the paint is a fault here. it has gotten worse too, and it seems like the paint is jut going to keep flaking.
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Paint issues are a common complaint, but there are ways to deal with them. I've talked about that here and on the CT9A forum, as well. I must have pointed to the detailing board a dozen times and advised folks to stop by and learn how to maintain their paint. Guess how many people showed up? One. That's right, only one person posted and asked about keeping his paintwork chip-free.
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I take excellent care of my paint but there's no way to keep the X's paint defective as it's rather thin and water based. Mitsubishi's not the only ones with paint issues, thats why I can't really complain to much...They (Mitsubishi) need to look further into the paint their using (or the paint the EPA is making them use) and correct it's mixture for a more chip/scratch resistant finish. I heard the Subaru paint makes ours look near invincible?
P.S. For crying out loud, they make self repairing paint now; the auto industry needs to really step it up!
P.S. For crying out loud, they make self repairing paint now; the auto industry needs to really step it up!
#7
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I take excellent care of my paint but there's no way to keep the X's paint defective as it's rather thin and water based. Mitsubishi's not the only ones with paint issues, thats why I can't really complain to much...They (Mitsubishi) need to look further into the paint their using (or the paint the EPA is making them use) and correct it's mixture for a more chip/scratch resistant finish. I heard the Subaru paint makes ours look near invincible?
P.S. For crying out loud, they make self repairing paint now; the auto industry needs to really step it up!
P.S. For crying out loud, they make self repairing paint now; the auto industry needs to really step it up!
You know, I have zero chips on my paint and it's not like I slow down for much. When I stop by my shop, my Evo is pretty much the only one without noticeable paint issues. IME, multiple layers of a durable sealant hold the paint together, if you will. The protective surface can resist marring and chipping. Of course, this won't save the paint from being hit by large objects, but small stones and such don't seem to make an impact. There are several products that work well for this. The process takes a little time, as each layer needs to cure and crosslink. Figure, a few weeks if the car is driven daily.
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#8
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I went so far as to have zylon applied, I cover the chips with DR. Colorchip when one occurs, feel free to PM some of sealant's you speak of, I hardly drive my car (as of right now) this would be the perfect time to do something of this nature. I wash my car and avoid rocky roads and never use a standard cloth to polish it or dry it off, microfiber is the only towel I use.
#9
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I went so far as to have zylon applied, I cover the chips with DR. Colorchip when one occurs, feel free to PM some of sealant's you speak of, I hardly drive my car (as of right now) this would be the perfect time to do something of this nature. I wash my car and avoid rocky roads and never use a standard cloth to polish it or dry it off, microfiber is the only towel I use.
Here's what I'd suggest. Stop by CarQuest or NAPA and get Duragloss 601 and 105. 601 is a bonding agent that adds to the durability of the sealant (ie. 105). It's not a crucial step, but it does help. 105 needs ~24 hours to crosslink, depending on temp/humidity. Put down an many layers as time allows, given the need to cure.
Before applying the sealant, however, it would be a good idea to prep the surface. In a full excursion, the paint is polished and cleaned before applying the LSP (ie. Last Step Product). You probably don't have the facilities, the tools, and the practice to polish right away, but a chemical cleaning can work well and it's easy to do. Duragloss offers a paint cleaner - #652. I'm referring you to Duragloss, because the products are available OTC and they're some of the best on the market. They're also very easy to wok with. If you're willing to order products, there are other options, as well. Good luck.
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Yeap the dealer had already applied the zylon before I had even purchased the car so I was rather happy about that, although it's not working as well as the dealer made it out to be... Will this effect the surface of my paint, i.e. streaking or leaving a weird residue which will be noticeable?
#11
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Will this effect the surface of my paint, i.e. streaking or leaving a weird residue which will be noticeable?
#12
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The paint is semi-slick and glossy, Mitsubishi's rep always comments on how clean the car is. Honestly I've never waxed the car; I wash it down, take a mircofiber sponge and gently remove dirt and derby, I then wash it down again with soap, reapply water and dry the car off with a micro fiber hand towel. I try to stay away from wax as it can cause numerous side effect and the zylon keeps the car looking super glossy... I just need something to help protect my paint, much like a sealant.
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I put a couple of coats of Werkstatt Acrylic Jett on my car when new and really only have a couple of minor rock chips which is pretty good. I just put a coat of XMT glaze and Pinnacle Liquid Souveran with a couple of coats of Acrylic Jett for my winter preparation. Hopefully it holds up.
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