...... i have to look again...anybody here get their brake pads done at the dealer and how much? I cant be the only one that got charged so much.


Then again, the dealer tried to charge me $77 to change my cabin filter and said it was a sale. I changed it for $20 myself.

 

You never told us how much you paid.

I can see a dealer charging someone 150 bucks or something per pad, though, times 4, plus install. Did you pay like 1k or something?

 

Do we not run the BB on hawk pads anymore for 150.00? I just popped on the site here, havent been on since I sold my VIII 4yrs ago, and am now buying a x for a DD after swapping a built 2jzgte into my G coupe. The evo is hella expensive to maintain, as is any sports car, unless you have the support (forums), and or mechanical know how to DIY, and buy extra during BBs

 

Routine maintenance at a dealer is never affordable. You guys need to find a local performance shop. Don't go to the dealer unless you're getting something done under warranty, it's that simple.

I had a $1k brake job on my BMW but that included four rotors. If they only did pads then I'd imagine half that.

 

yeah, my advans made it to 7500

 

Well, yeah, I agree. He's just been going on about "oh god I spent so much" at the dealer, but never told us how much he spent

 

I wasnt going on and on about it...i just stated that i just found out how expensive the maintenance could be at the dealer because i just got it done.

I paid for all four rotors resurfaced and pads, Fronts $345.50 plus $140 labor, Rears $319.57 labor $140...plus stupid hazardous materials charge and a 10% discount.

Yeah i got raped.

 

I think its pretty simple. AWD takes more power and weighs more. You have to remember race tracks are smooth pieces of asphalt where a RWD platform can reach the same limits of traction but weigh less, cost less and have less drivetrain loss. If the track was wet, dirty, or bumpy like most streets then AWD would have an advantage. That why AWD shines on some tracks and loses at others when comparing stock cars. Not all tracks are created equal. But most professional groups run on pretty nice tracks around the world. Ours suck for the most part. This is coming from my expierence racing motorcycles around the country in the AMA.

 

U say the drivetrain losses in AWD>RWD...do U have some examples and the specific figures for this? Also, I dispute UR claim, "...RWD platform can reach the same limits of traction .." as AWD on smooth courses. Distributing torque front to rear and side to side in AWD is far superior than that available in RWD...it has been demonstrated time and again...I am thinking of the ban of Audi AWD in the early days of rallying because it was deemed an unfair advantage, as a notable example.

Later, Ken
Edit: Many of the Rally races were on tarmac and still the Audi won

 

A bit but you hadn't mentioned that they turned the rotors. I've overpaid for a lot of stuff over the years, don't sweat it too much.

One of the nice things about the Evo is that you can get some sweet aftermarket parts for the same price as the stock pieces. Some of us don't even wait for them to wear out!

 

Big time! The rotors probably didn't need resurfacing. Haz-mat charge? You could have thrown the pads away yourself. So you basically paid almost $1000.00 to have your brake pads replaced. WOW! Next time before you spend a cent on anything, ask around first.

I'd hate to see what they would charge you for rotors. I'm thinking $4,000. Do not go back to that dealer. They shafted you.

 

So why are we arguing rwd vs awd. This all started because a price comparison to a beamer. You can't put too much stock on the magazine monkeys, as a layman I've priced a beamer to an mr touring of comparable features and a bmw easily hits 49k and the mr t floats at 42k.

If you're really talking starting prices which is what they use for the bmw, then the same should go for the mitsu which they don't. Like someone said starting for a mitsu is $30k(about) for bmw $40k.
You can debate awd vs rwd for generations, guess what the pros argue this too and one of the reason they just made rules; wanna race here?, easy-follow the rules, no more arguing.
For the rest of us it just comes down to what we want or need. See how fun that beamer is thru a vermont winter.
For me, I'll never drive a fwd(barf) or rwd car again. The safety advantages of awd drive alone are very important to me(rain, control, driving in mtns etc.).

As I decide btw an mr or sti, maintenance costs are a concern. While I expect to pay higher maintenance for these cars, paying lotus elise prices for an evo is out of the question. So C&D scared me a little but what I'm getting from you guys is that it depends on driving, dealer raping, and brand name pricing that you can forego(like advans).

 

not upon acceleration. if all else being equal, that would defy the laws of physics.

its one thing to say a lighter, less powerful RWD car can be faster than a heavier, more powerful AWD car. yes that statement i'd agree with, DEPENDING on how the car was designed.

its another thing to say that RWD can achieve the same traction as AWD. that statement would be outright false.

 

They quoted me over 1200 bucks to replace the brake pads on my X,

I paid 210 and got better pads and did it myself, the dealer will screw you every time...

 

Wow, 1200 for pads!?! For $210, if it included both F and R axles, I doubt the pads are better than OEM Brembos though. Brembos are pretty close to race pads, they took the 900F temps my HPDE threw at them without melting down or fading. The dealer is just passing along MSRP price on pads (just north of $600 for F plus R), and 5 hours @$120/hr. I'd sure hope that would include removing calipers and cleaning boots and area around them, plus a full brake fluid exchange/flush. Did they mention the flush? I hate dealers that charge "by the book" and only deliver a portion of what the book says to do.