The 1200 was almost for pads alone,

And my Hawks are a heck of a lot better then my OEMs...

 

I think the one thing to note here is this:

You gotta pay to play. If you can barely afford the payments of your Evo, do yourself (and the Evo) a favor and give it a miss for now. This goes for DIY'er's or otherwise.

We really should not be surprised that taking our sports cars to the dealership = $$$

I'm not saying its right. I'm not saying dealerships are helping us, and I'm certainly not bashing anyone for paying the money. I'm simply saying this is the way its always been. You wanna know pain? Talk to an audi owner... Some of the GTR stories I've read have been pretty sterilizing too.

 

Lol, yeah my ex had an Audi and my best friend had a VW...they stayed at the dealership paying excessive dealership prices. I learned my lesson about the stealership and will start taking my X to Sean Iveys shop for maintenance. Its only a couple of minutes away from my dealership. Only reason why i went to the dealership is because i read on here how Mitsubishi is so strict with their warranties and i didnt want any problems with them in the future. I didnt want to go to iveys because im trying to stay away from modding until warranty is up.

 

I've been told that the stock pads are custom Ferodo, not Brembo brand.

 

Yep, a co-worker got the privilege of $650 for his Jetta's brakes at the dealership, and I'm sure those pads were the $29.99 quality pads you can get LLT warranty for at any parts store.

 

Nice to know. It explains something too -- I've heard complaints about glazing on after market Ferodo's and with some new X's that were well under any mileage/wear levels, such as 2,000 and had problems. I guess that's why the OEM break-in instructions are so strongly worded. I was nice to my brakes since I was keeping it under 5,000 rpms also during that period. The Ferodo's I window-shopped for during pad replacements were exactly cheap, that much I found out.

 

You are the only one that got the gist of this thread. Yes, the experts of EvoM all do their own maintenance, right? Fact is many people don't and would be far better off in a Mustang or Camaro, BMW etc. Track ready cars like Evos need higher maintenance and cost more beyond just the initial price.

 

they are tool bags, harder than usual force to shut the doors? wtf, do they want to hit a button and have the doors close themselves?

 

brakes are over rated.

 

I cross shopped the 135i and after a test drive of both cars back to back I came away defiantly favoring the EVO X MT-T, it is just more fun to drive on a daily basis! More fun (and more comfortable/practical) than either of my "sports cars" (though the Miata is an attention getter and that can be fun). I too wish the EVO showed more compliance over small undulations and tar strips but I wish it were stiffer over bumps and when cornering hard.

 

No, AWD was banned in F1 some 40 years ago, it was that much faster (ultimately better handling) way back then.

 

If you think RWD handles better than AWD then an EVO is the wrong car to get.

I will take a hit in drivetrain efficiency for double the grip any day.

And the ability to accelerate when its raining is handy
- and so is the ability to turn in the snow

Flame on

 

lol I think the majority of us here are more concerned about the money we spend to mod our cars rather than maintain them. Maintenance costs are like pennies compared to money spent on aftermarket parts.

 

AWD provides more grip acceleration out of turns relative to RWD under most conditions. By "conditions" I mean using street tires or even close to racing tires. Under completely dry conditions and unlimited tire choice (e.g., slicks) the differences become smaller. There is absolutely no benefit to AWD, in fact a deficit, in a straight line due to losses of the front wheels to say nothing of the added weight . That is why all top dragsters are RWD or FWD (e.g., Chris Rado ). That said, for all the rest of us would be track guys, AWD will always win out over RWD due to confidence...when U go into a turn hard and attempt to accelerate out, the AWD provides the grip and stability to complete the turn successfully; in RWD the driver always has to be prepared for oversteer/step out of rear and as a result will be more tentative/conservative in the same turn....this will result in slower track times relative to the same driver with RWD. Use of profesional drivers with identical horsepower powered cars, one with AWD, the other with RWD but respective weight differential on a dry track with slicks, is an open question as to which will have the best time.
A drift from OP but relevant given above posts.

Later, Ken

 

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